Charging system help!

[kayo]

My battery isn't charging, I've replaced the alternator (the old one tested and failed). When I test across the positive and negative terminals on the alternator I only get about 11.75V. I get a fault code 41 and I've been to the minimopar site and checked all my connections as recomended and I can't find anything wrong.
The strange part is that it will sometimes start to charge but only for a brief period of time, then it drops off again. I've tried wiggling all the connections with the engine running and a voltmeter connected and nothing happens.
Is it my power module? If so, could I just wire in an external voltage regulator.
This is driving me nuts and I need to fix it fast.
Thanks for any info...
Dave

[kayo]

Oh, and another question. Will the power module from other TD's of similar vintage work or is it specific to that model?
I guess it might help if I added more info on the car:
'85 GLH-T T1

[mcnoople]

You might have another bad alt. If you got it from the zone their failure rate within 2 years is something like 80% I had an alt that would periodical overcharge. I didn't notice that one until the stereo shut itself off at 17 volts and the cel came on with an overcharge code. And yes you can wire in a external VR from an older chrysler product. I suggest late 70's flat VR's but you will need the funky connector.

[sleeperspirit]

i have a good alternator from a 87 tona, im sure you need one asap but if you can wait a few days for it to come in the mail you can have it for 10+shipping

[kayo]

I think the alternator is good, it's the second remanned one I've installed in the last couple of days. I saw dodgez posted an electronic VR installation on another site which looked fairly simple. I get the feeling that bypassing the PM might make life easier.
I want to be done with gremlins and get around to doing cool stuff to it (TII conv., install power steering, new tires, STERIO)

[kayo]

Oops, stereo

[DodgeZ]

http://*****************/forums/showthread.php?t=6036

[SUPER60omni]

Its proly the voltage regulator. 99% sure. Its in the power module. Mine just did the same crap last week. I put 3 different alternators in it. All good, none worked. Just get a Junk Yard PM. Or they always sell for $20-40 on ebay. i think 85-88 is all the same and the most common, dosent matter glh, glhs, shelbyZ they all work T1 or T2 are the same i think. Dont bother doin the external VR. That thing is a joke IMHO. fix it right.

[bobintrees]

Double check the fuse. For my 90 Daytona, it wouldn't charge and the problem was the fuse, it is labeled radiator fan, but it fuses the field + wire.

If not a fuse, check the field + on the alt, it should read 12v for full charge, less if your bat + is at ~14. If it isn't at ~12v try a jumper to bat + and see if that will charge the bat.

Again, check the fuse, it is what was wrong with mine.

If after you jumper and it works and is not the fuse, check the wiring, then the PM and wiring.

[DodgeZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SUPER60omni . i think 85-88 is all the same and the most common, dosent matter glh, glhs, shelbyZ they all work T1 or T2 are the same i think.

http://*****************/forums/showthread.php?t=579

[kayo]

Nice, thanks for all the input guys, gonna go junk yard shopping today!
Dave

[SUPER60omni]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DodgeZ http://*****************/forums/showthread.php?t=579

Not sure what that link is in reference to? It does state that the 85-87 was same tho. Remember we are talking POWER MODULE not logic module. those are all different.

[DodgeZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SUPER60omni Not sure what that link is in reference to? It does state that the 85-87 was same tho. Remember we are talking POWER MODULE not logic module. those are all different.

you said "i think 85-88 is all the same" 88 is an SMEC which is different and is pointed out on my site. plus I wanted to send a link to my site

[russ jerome]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kayo Is it my power module? If so, could I just wire in an external voltage regulator.

You can wire in a new external voltage regulator in 10 minutes, it
will charge better than the power modules temp controlled circut.

Added bonus is it will reduce a lot of heat from you present module
and its inj drivers. And a new regulator (use a 71 dodge pu with a
318 for a reference) will cost less than a junkyard power module.

[kayo]

Can the wire leading to the ign. be taken off the coil? Or is it best to literaly run it to the ignition? You'll have to pardon my lack of knoledge on the topic, electrical is the part of automotive that I'm the least familliar with
Dave