Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

Baron von John · **No idiot lights after fooling around with Map**

Help needed. I was having stalling off-idel problems with several codes (13, 14, 15, 24, 47). I had a spare MAP and cleaned it out with electronics cleaner spray. I plugged this "cleaned or ruined you pick" MAP in and it would not start. I put the original MAP back in and it would start, but no check engine light or low oil light in the dash. Nothing at all. Any ideas greatly appreciated. I have a parts car with an ECU in it. It is an auto turbo 88 car, same year as mine, but mine is a 5 speed.

Getting worried I fried something.

I tried removing the ground cable for 15 minutes, no change.

Baron von John · **More info**

I pulled the battery and un-plugged the computer cables. The connections were dirty and had a little green powder on them.

I cleaned these connectors and blew them out with a little compressed air.

Re-installed everything, no change.

I replaced the TPS today with a new unit, nothing different.

I ordered a new MAP, it will be here this week.

I think next I will swap in the other SBEC I have from the auto car and replace the map. I will remove the battery cable before I do anything though.

Baron von John · 12-05-2006, 02:32 PM

Wah, nobody loves me! I am losing it over this check engine problem. Keep me grounded please. My next trick is to send the SBEC to FWDP for a new cal. Who has done this?

**Ender** · 12-05-2006, 10:06 PM

Wow, green powder on the ECU connectors? How long has this car been sitting?

Baron von John · 12-06-2006, 12:26 AM

It sat for about 3 years. I am resurrecting it. I put the motor from the auto donor in there and I am still working out the bugs.

whistlin' · 12-07-2006, 05:15 PM

Check your fuses.

Baron von John · 12-07-2006, 06:02 PM

All fuses are good to go.

Baron von John · 12-08-2006, 12:34 AM

I replaced the MAP. I also cleaned the ground at the fuel rail. Everything seems better. Still getting a MAP code though. Not sure what to think about that. Vacuum hoses all see fine.

whistlin' · 12-08-2006, 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron von John

but no check engine light or low oil light in the dash.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron von John

Still getting a MAP code though.

So you are or aren't getting a check engine light?

The Barron · 12-08-2006, 08:49 AM

If you did all that and there is now no engine light,but the CODE is still there,unhook the battery for a couple min. This will clear the codes again. THEN drive it for a while and chech/watch for codes.

Baron von John · 12-08-2006, 10:37 AM

Hey all,

The check engine light started working again last night after cleaning the fuel rail ground. The low oil light is working now too. I get codes with the flashing light.

I found the SMEC plug pin-outs and checked for poor ground there. The pin-out noted that the grounds were all referenced to that point. So, cleaning that with a little sandpaper seems to have helped the light work again. I have a on again/off again relationship with my SDS and if the car sits for several days, I get no speedo for a little while. I think that may be driving the computer crazy.

whistlin' · 12-09-2006, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baron von John

I have a on again/off again relationship with my SDS and if the car sits for several days, I get no speedo for a little while. I think that may be driving the computer crazy.

Are you getting a code for the SDS? If not then I would say it's your speedo cluster itself.

Baron von John · 12-09-2006, 10:49 AM

I am pulling the battery cable every time I open the hood any more. But, I do get the SDS code 15 when the speedo goes quiet. Also, even with the new MAP, I get a map code now and again and have a less than satisfying idle. It idles with a little stutter. I thought it was the hall effect sensor, but that replacement did nothing. I am going through the whole vacuum system this weekend looking for leaks. I think I will just replace everything with a manifold and see if that helps. My only previous experience with these cars was a 1984 2.2 E-Class TBI car that I owned in the late 80's. This is a different world as far as power is concerned.

Unfortunately, I have never had this car running completely right. I pulled it from a field in eastern WA where it had sat for several years with inches of dirt on it and the spark plugs and air box removed. I never even tried to start that motor, but I did turn it over and saved it for a possible core.

This was my little brothers car. He was killed on a motorcycle in 2004. It is a sentimental project, hence the fretting.

whistlin' · 12-09-2006, 02:13 PM

SDS will cause a rough or low idle. As far as a stutter or occasional hiccup, I thought that was normal.

Baron von John · 12-17-2006, 03:51 AM

Update!

I replaced the hall effect sensor in the distributor and all if the non-PCV related vacuum tubing. I was getting a code 54 as well as the 12 and 13.

While in there, I added a Grainger valve and set it for 11 pounds. Now I am starting to see why there are web sites devoted to these cars. What a hoot!

All seems better now. No stalling and no check engine light when it is not supposed to be there.

Thanks for all the support!