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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 06-28-2007, 12:29 AM   #1
jerking and cutting out when accelerating  
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i was wondering if anyone could help me out i have an 88 chrysler lancer and when i step on it it starts to cut out and jerk but still keeps going faster im not sure what it could be so i appreciate if someone knows the problem and a possible solution
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:41 AM   #2
 
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Is it showing any codes?

What's the condition of the ignition components, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Check to make sure your wires a fully seated in the cap.

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:15 AM   #3
 
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have you tryed to change the hall-effect? this seems to be a big problem just a thought...
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:32 PM   #4
 
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Sounds like overboost to me. Check the vac line to the wastegate. This happened to me and it turned out that I had knocked the line off during a tuneup. BTW, the car was VERY quick until the comp shut it down
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:42 PM   #5
 
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what is the hall effect i have never heard of it
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:43 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomini
have you tryed to change the hall-effect? this seems to be a big problem just a thought...
what is the hall-effect i have never heard of it
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:48 PM   #7
 
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The ignition pickup, its a black donut shaped peice with 2 plugs on it that sits under the distributior rotor.
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:50 PM   #8
stuttering acceleration........  
PTT
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My same symptoms turned out to be a broken TB mounting flange (after an off-manifold TB cleaning) caused when well meaning friend over tightened the TB bolts. Just enough vacuum leak to affect acceleration.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:46 PM   #9
 
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I suffered the through the same disease as you did.. ['88 lancer shelby TII] it was horrible.. the tach would jump around because the motor was actually cutting out.. sputtering and it had an idle that just kept rising..

I changed EVERYTHING in the engine compartment with NEW components!
and nothing helped.. replaced all the vaccum lines, replaced the entire ignition system.. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Hep.. new fuel pump, FPR, even switched to a vaccum block, replaced the IAS, TPS, CTS, thermostat, MAP.. i even went and checked the speed distance sensor.. nothing helped.

i SOLVED the issue by getting one of Cindy's great Smecs.. In my case a stage 3.

A few months after running the FWDP Unit, i swapped the OEM unit back in "just to see.. " oh dear what a piece of junk compared to the FWDP unit. very touchy throttle control, high idle.. very bad fuel econo, motor would cut out at cruise and sputter.. only liked WOT and even then would cut out at times..

So naturally I opened up the OEM Unit and found the reason it was such a piece 'o junk.. the resistors and capacitors had taken their toll and were all worn out and some were missing their tops! after 18 years they just wore out.. i also found a few wasps and other "Natural" debris in there

I would suggest if you havent to borrow an Smec and see if it helps you in your case..

Good luck and let us know how it goes!
My Lancer has started chewing HEP's again.. *sigh*.. this car seems to like being left alone and driven into the ground. the more i put into it and repair it, the more other things start to wear out to the point that once you have replaced everything on the car that went bad.. the ORIGINAL stuff you replaced starts to go!

bernard
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:08 PM   #10
 
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Need a lot more info on what's going on. Have you checked for codes? What boost pressure are you getting? What engine is in the car and what if anything have you done to it? Does it do it at WOT, part throttle, or both? Does it do it in all gears? Does it do it when you first start to accelerate or after you get up into the higher RPMs? We can throw out maybes all day, but we could narrow it down with more info.
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:36 AM   #11
 
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Lol everybody has a solution!

But the real solution is to check the codes, and let the car tell you what is wrong.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:44 PM   #12
 
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I had a simliar problem last year, come to be a bad ground wire, check all your grounds as well.
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:00 PM   #13
 
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Codes dont always tell you anything, my car is running so bad its barely drivable and has no codes at all. I agree you should check though.
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:10 PM   #14
 
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did you check the vacuum ? i had the kind of same problem , i bought a boost gauge with vacuum to -30 and what i see , no vacuum at idle , so i talk to a friend a told me , my timing belt jump .
last year , when just running 1/4 of gaz full boost , push all the way 5 psi and cut off , check your cam timing in case !
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:51 PM   #15
 
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i'm with ender and daytonajessie- ck for a code 45. i betting on overboost- the kinda fun code.... you can easily check your codes via the key on off on off on and count the flashes of the ck eng lite. - good luck
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