inner tie rod repair.help

[waterbird808]

is there a special tool to take out the driver side inner tie rod. can it be taken out after i remove the tire, inner tie rod ball joint and the boot. thanks james

[waterbird808]

sorry. 89 dodge shadow driver side inner tie rod

[NAJ]

Yes there is a special tool for removing the inner tie rod.The tool is made by Lisle and comes with adapters to fit different size inner tie rod ends.
I see posts from TDers that you can rent certain tools at places such as Auto Zone,if you want to purchase one the cost is around $60.
I do not know if any TD Vendors sell tools but if you would like to see a picture go to Automotive Tools, Air Tools, Robinair A/C Equipment at ToolTopia.com and click on vehicle specialty tools then steering and suspension.

[waterbird808]

thanks naj. we don't have autozone. ill checkout checkers they might have rentals. james

[cawcislo]

Yes check with a local parts store for loan a tool programs. You're looking for basically a big long socket with different bits (that attach to the end) to unbolt the inner tie rod.

Like this
eBay Motors: INNER TIE ROD TOOL WITH 5 CROWSFOOT WRENCHES (item 110162104387 end time Sep-08-07 08:00:00 PDT)

[waterbird808]

thanks guys for the help. sorry for the late respond. just bought my inner tie rod.

now im pretty much bum cause something is wrong with my turbo. i don't have boost. car runs fine without the boost but while driving on the hwy it died on me for a couple of seconds and it restarted and i kept going to my destination without dieing off again. i think i have some kind of electrical problem like the idle would fluctuate when starting and would die and hard to start and it feel like its flooding. i do have the 3 green manuals that came with the car. im trying to pin point the problem but don't know where to look in the manual. manual is to big for read but ill try my best. thanks james

[NAJ]

First to verify you have 3 symptoms?
Poor idle, Idle speed is fluctuating up and down.
Vehicle intermitanly dies, just shut off and restarted by itself?
No boost, what does boost gauge show?
When did these symptoms appear? Have they been a problem or did they just suddenly appear? All at once? Was any work done prior to these problems?
Did the Power Loss/Check Engine Light come on? Are there any stored fault codes?

[waterbird808]

i lost the boost while driving on hwy at about 45, 50 and i stump on the throttle for 2 to 3 seconds and it felt like the idle drop sudently to its normal idle but no boost. so i gradually step on the pedal to see if it will boost. nothing no boost. when i let go the pedal it will go back normal to 15. when i bought the car the boost reading it had was 15 at idle and 5 at boost.

after this whole thing happened. i park the car to get something and when i start the car. i think it must of flooded cause when i turn the key ignition. motor don't turn over until the 3rd or 4th try and idle would be fluctuating like its furting and dies out so i waited couple of minutes and it started but idle stayed high for awhile about 100yards idle would drop back down to normal but still no boost. im thinking the problem could be from the dizzy i think its the HEP. im open to any info you guys have.

idle is fine. it doesnt go up and down.
no check engine light for anything

when i bought the car. the owner warn me that the motor would cutoff but it will start. james

[waterbird808]

sorry. the boost would go from 15 at idle to 0 now.

[NAJ]

Ok so the cut out problem was there and the lack of boost just started.
Just so we are clear on future posts the left side of the boost gauge is vacuum ( measured in inchs of mercury 15" vacuum = 15 " HG) and boost is measured in pressure (Pounds per square inch PSI).
As far as the boost problem goes,first check under the hood and be sure that all of the tubing from the turbo to the engine are tight and secure and do not have any holes or cracks in them. Sometimes they may be difficult to see so check thoroughly.
With the cut out problem it sounds like a HEP problem but I have seen problems with connector integrity as well. Perform a "wiggle "test. Start the engine and wiggle and slightly tug on the wiring of the hep and connector to see if you can simulate the condition paying close attention to wear the wires exit the distributor and the connector.
Diagnoising an intermittant can sometimes be hit and miss especially if the problem only occurs while driving.You do not really know which component/circuit is causing the problem.
Did you check for stored fault codes?

[waterbird808]

dunno how to check faulty code

[NAJ]

Place the key in the ignition and tutn the key on/off, on/off, on, the power loss/check engine light will start to flash, you have to count the flashes.
Example : Code 24, 2 long flashes followed by 4 short flashes
Code 55 will be the last code you will see, that is "End of Message"
If you are not sure repeat the process.

[waterbird808]

1long 2,5,4,5,5. thanks for the info on how to check the code. that was cool. i hope its nothing major.

[waterbird808]

so thats mean i have 3 problem.
1) code 12 is battery feed to computer lost. is this mean i need to change my battery.

2) code 15 is speed sensor. is this mean i need to replace the speed sensor.

3) code 14 is map sensor electrical. is this mean i need to replace the map sensor.

am i correct with code and do i have to replace all or there's another way where i don't have to replace.

ill try and read my manual. thanks james

[NAJ]

The codes are an indication of a problem in that circuit not necessarily with the sensor. Since the Check Engine Lamp is not lit these are memory codes(they happened at least 1 time in the last 50 key starts) and are not active at this time. The next step is to disconnect the batt - cable which will clear the memory codes and then drive the vehicle to see if any return.The code 12 will remain since you disconnected the battery so ignore this one. Make sure you check to be sure they were cleared,you should only have 12 and 55.