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Old 10-28-2007, 02:17 PM   #1
Grainger Valve hookup.  
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I want to double check how to hookup my grainger valve. I think the 90 degree barb goes to the turbo nipple and the long straight barb on the valve goes to the wastegate. Is this correct? To adjust it, if you elongate the valve you reduce spring pressure so you reduce boost. Is this correct?
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87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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Old 10-28-2007, 02:53 PM   #2
Re: Grainger Valve hookup.  
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the 90 degree barb goes toward the wastegate actuator (can), the other end to manifold pressure (vacuum) source. lengthening the valve reduces boost. make sure you drill a very small bleed hole (.020") in the 90 degree barb to allow the wastegate can to move in both directions.
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Old 10-28-2007, 08:04 PM   #3
Re: Grainger Valve hookup.  
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make sure the ball & spring are assembled correctly !
it's possible to assemble it backwards inside
+1 for the bleed
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:49 PM   #4
Re: Grainger Valve hookup.  
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Woops had it on backwards. No wonder that needle kept going beyond 20 psi It's now correct. I'll have to dial it in now. It has the little hole drilled in it, so it's good to go now. Thanks.
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87 Daytona Shelby Z 2.5 T2-> cummins cooler, 3" exhaust, S60, forged venolias, Shel-game custom 3 bar cal 18 psi... ported +1 head Lookin to go low 13's.. extra lean - need a good tune and hopefully the new 4 puck holds up.
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:12 PM   #5
Re: Grainger Valve hookup.  
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make sure to periodically check that little hole, had mind get plugged with somthing after it being on a few years and it caused some rather unexpected boost issues...lol...
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