"overboosting or rev-limiter?"

[IROCNOROLL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo-tease when we pulled the head off the alignment dowel next to the #1 cylinder came out of the block & stayed with the head. Is it the lines that get plugged up or the t-fitting or a vac. valve?

Measure twice. Dowel may be too long and part of the problem.

If the orifice is still in place, then it is in the vac line between the turbo compressor housing outlet nipple, and the "T". Looks like a little red in-line vacuum line connector from the outside. Super brittle and easily broken if you try to pull it out of the hose. The hole thru this restrictor orifice is tiny, and is easily plugged or gummed up. No pressure signal thru this orifice means no pressure to the waste gate control solenoid, or the waste gate can. Over-boost will result. This orifice provides a pressure supply to the WG solenoid, and because the solenoid is usually ported open, allows a pressure bleed without big flow volume. Once the solenoid is cycled from open to closed, it allows the pressure to build to the WG can and cycles the waste gate can to activate the waste gate itself. By allowing the ecu to control the boost, it can cycle the solenoid at different frequencies to have a very finite control over boost. A manual boost controller (MBC) simply pushes open when sufficient pressure builds, allowing pressure to the WG can. Boost is decreased when the WG is pushed, MBC closes, and so on. MBC is a more on / off control without the finesse of the computer controlled WG solenoid. This is another reason that spiking is usually more common on manual boost control systems.

[turbo-tease]

That little red vac. connector,which end of the connector goes to the turbo the big end or the tiny.I'm sure I have it right,just wondering.I took off all of the lines & checked them all & found nothing inside of them.My vac. set up is all still factory.I don't have a mbc yet,does anyone have an accurate set up of how a vac. looks? I don't mean the one that's under the hood. When I rebuild the vac. set up a number of years ago I went by a set up that chrysler had on their computer when looking up parts.I no longer work for a chrysler dealer & I can't find my print out copy. thanks, mike.

[IROCNOROLL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo-tease That little red vac. connector,which end of the connector goes to the turbo the big end or the tiny.I'm sure I have it right,just wondering.I took off all of the lines & checked them all & found nothing inside of them.

Big end if memory serves me. When you say nothing inside, do you mean the restriction is there, and open inside to the size of say a hair, or that the restricted orifice has ben replaced with a standard vacuum coupler? Either way, if that restrictor isn't plugged, then this will not be the source of your overboost. The other end of the vac control circuit is the WG solenoid. Either the line from the "T" to the wastegate can is not able to pass boost, the line the the WG Solenoid is open or cracked, or the WG Solenoid itself is open all the time and not responding to the ecu commands to cycle closed to build pressure to the WG itself. Lastly would be the wastegate can itself is internally leaking and not able to open the WG. Happy hunting...

[turbo-tease]

does it matter which way the restrictor is going to the turbo or the t-fitting?

[IROCNOROLL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo-tease does it matter which way the restrictor is going to the turbo or the t-fitting?

No, as long as the vacuum hose at each end seals to it's fitting. The restrictor itself is basically just a very small hair sized orifice to limit flow volume to the WG solenoid during it's normally open operation. Just think of it as a controlled vacuum / pressure leak until the WG solenoid is cycled closed by the ecu.

[turbo-tease]

daytona is back together now & running (woo-hoo) finally! is also running very well now! so far so good it's been 5 days so far,gas milege is good! boost is good & I am being very careful not to over boost again! Oh & I almost forgot monday when I took it out for gas & was coming back home I got a speeding ticket (woops!)

[turbo-tease]

daytona is still running good no problems to complain about yet, still running real good!

[turbo-tease]

Now I am having some trouble again I am starting to smoke again it is a blue smoke!
It seems to load up while idling then taking off I cloud out the cars behind me.Would this be from valve seals leaking or rings leaking? again engine only 3,000 miles on it & seems to be not sealing the rings! Is there a fix for this without taknig the engine back appart? I am using 10w30 valvoline oil is this too light or should I go with a different weight? Is there an additive than can help this problem? Car runs fine otherwise! thanks for any help on this ! mike.

[IROCNOROLL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo-tease Now I am having some trouble again I am starting to smoke again it is a blue smoke! It seems to load up while idling then taking off I cloud out the cars behind me.Would this be from valve seals leaking or rings leaking?

What about on cold start in am? Do you get a puff "o" blue then as well? Just a puff and then it clears up?

[turbo-tease]

Quote:

Originally Posted by IROCNOROLL What about on cold start in am? Do you get a puff "o" blue then as well? Just a puff and then it clears up?

I do get a puff "o" blue in am on cold start then goes away, I pull out of driveway onto road to the main road(just a short road off of my driveway) I stop & wait to pull out after sitting waiting I pull out onto main road & it smokes some more.Then stops when driving down the road until I stop again then it smokes.The warmer it gets the worse it smokes.

[IROCNOROLL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo-tease I do get a puff "o" blue in am on cold start then goes away, I pull out of driveway onto road to the main road(just a short road off of my driveway) I stop & wait to pull out after sitting waiting I pull out onto main road & it smokes some more.Then stops when driving down the road until I stop again then it smokes.The warmer it gets the worse it smokes.

Sounds more like a head / valve guide issue with the cold start smoke. Or a possible turbo oil seal. A quick look in the inlet hose to the Throttle Body would confirm this.
Ring wear / piston damage will usually pull more oil on decell. This would fog the mosquito's more when slowing down.
Or if you have an issue with the PVC valve pulling the oil past the separator built into the valve cover. Idle and decell is usually where the engine vacuum is highest, and if the vent cover in the valve cover was incorrectly sealed, there would be the opportunity to pull oil out of the head and straight into the intake manifold. When your driving and the mani vacuum is lower, then the volume of oil will not be pulled from the head till you come back to idle again. Maybe. Things to contemplate before going back into the engine anyways.

[turbo-tease]

Quote:

Originally Posted by IROCNOROLL Sounds more like a head / valve guide issue with the cold start smoke. Or a possible turbo oil seal. A quick look in the inlet hose to the Throttle Body would confirm this. Ring wear / piston damage will usually pull more oil on decell. This would fog the mosquito's more when slowing down. Or if you have an issue with the PVC valve pulling the oil past the separator built into the valve cover. Idle and decell is usually where the engine vacuum is highest, and if the vent cover in the valve cover was incorrectly sealed, there would be the opportunity to pull oil out of the head and straight into the intake manifold. When your driving and the mani vacuum is lower, then the volume of oil will not be pulled from the head till you come back to idle again. Maybe. Things to contemplate before going back into the engine anyways.

what if the sealant in the vent cover in the valve cover as getting old & not sealing any more or coming appart. Could it cause this much smoke?
It made this much smoke before I put a catch can system in then I put the catch can in & the oil smoke disappeared for awhile but now it is back!
For the turbo oil seal, which seal could have failed & how can I fix it?(bought turbo from fwd)

[mmtphoto]

I had a seal go in my turbo years ago, and there is no mistaking it-you could use the car as a skywriter, it is so bad-white smoke, like the neighbors are gonna call the fire company bad. If yours in just when cold and when you take off after a short idle, it is almost certainly valve seals.

[turbo-tease]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmtphoto I had a seal go in my turbo years ago, and there is no mistaking it-you could use the car as a skywriter, it is so bad-white smoke, like the neighbors are gonna call the fire company bad. If yours in just when cold and when you take off after a short idle, it is almost certainly valve seals.

when I come to a stop at a traffic light it feels like it loads up, then a big cloud of smoke on take off. When the car is hot it smokes everytime I stop & go! like today I got gas & left the gas station I left a big cloud of smoke! I just don't know!

[turbo-tease]

updating again! it is still smoking the same as before! the turbo seems to have a small whistle from 1-9 pounds of boost and at 10 pounds of boost turbo starts to scream!
why is doing this? I bought this turbo from fwd.I would think if the turbo is the problem it should have lasted longer than this!! my factory original turbo lasted 18 years before it let go! Any help on this matter would be great! thanks, mike.