help with basket case

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fochtup1 thank you very much...your pics are a big help, i see i'm missing some sending units at the block where the turbo oil line goes on, the rest of my empties are for ac which this car doesn't have. i'm heading to the junk yard this morning cause i heard there is 1 turbo 1 car that just came in. i'll hope to get those parts missing. thanks alot, justin

I'm glad they helped.

You might want to grab the "T" & check valve that goes from the EGR transducer to the EGR valve - I noticed your's was gone.

Don't forget to move those spacers and get those vac caps off the solenoids!

[fochtup1]

thanks, now i know what is not used on the wiring harness and have that all correct, even grabbed the ground straps. did not get the "t" but going back tomorrow for a transfer case for jeep and i'll grab that.
now working on vacume hoses. whats not needed to make this thing run, i dont need the emissions stuff and trying to follow the diagram on strut tower your pics look like you dont run much or there just out with engine.
thanks, justin

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fochtup1 thanks, now i know what is not used on the wiring harness and have that all correct, even grabbed the ground straps. did not get the "t" but going back tomorrow for a transfer case for jeep and i'll grab that. now working on vacume hoses. whats not needed to make this thing run, i dont need the emissions stuff and trying to follow the diagram on strut tower your pics look like you dont run much or there just out with engine. thanks, justin

My stuff is just tore out w/ the motor.
The only solenoid I plan to use is for the BARO... That's why I said not to put caps where caps don't go... The MAP sensor can't read BARO if its capped
Do you have to run emissions stuff in your class? Maybe you can block off the EGR?

Whatever you decide to do.... If you decide not to actually use a particular solenoid you still have to leave it plugged in or the computer with get pissy and throw codes and limp.

[Adam]

All i can tell you is to follow your vaccume diagram to a T, not sure that i would recomend removing the EGR because EGR helps reduce detonation. This project brings back memories of my first car, a 87 T1 Daytona Pacifica.... the engine was sitting in the passenger seat lol. luckily my dad had a 86 lebaron gts that i could go by. Get all the hard parts bolted in and go from there. Good luck cheif.

[fochtup1]

the engine is in and got the wire harness done with the help of
screaming4banger and his pics and input and now trying to figure out vacuum diagram...as i do not know what anything is or where to find it...i know the basic egr valve and some other things but the rest is new to me. like the egr solonoid...which one is it? i did a search on the vacuum diagram and saw some one was going to the liberery for the service manual yall talk about...maybe i get lucky and find one there.

[Screamin4banger]

[Screamin4banger]

The "orifice" for the wastegate will be the yellow one. I wouldn't worry about the one listed between the charcoal can and the TB. you should have these still... It looked like you still had half of the VAC Harness in one of your pics. just be sure to save the Yellow orifice and chuck all those crappy lines. I'll post an updated pic of the solenoids in a minute.

[Screamin4banger]

HAHA.... I made a mess

By canister I mean the little port on the charcoal can.
By TB port I mean the little one next to where the fat line to the charcoal goes on the throttle body.

Don't forget the yellow orifice inline to the wastegate.

Make sure you remember to take those caps off the ports I marked as open. If you feel there should be something there... Make little filters out of some scrap filter foam - like the stuff in cheap Shop-Vacs or air conditioners - that's what the factory had. Little square pieces of foam that disintegrated years ago

[fochtup1]

thanks screaming4banger, printed your pic and going to give it a try, at least i know whats what now. thanks again, justin

[fochtup1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Screamin4banger

thanks sceaming4banger, i'm getting things worked out and i hope this should be the last question i have...i know there's no stupid questions just stupid people.
here it goes...on the diagram BLEED...is that just an open line?
ORIFICE...what's that...if it is a part could you post a pic...i have a lot of vacuum lines with things attached.
CHECK VALVE...my guess is a one way valve, i have a few things that look like small in line fuel filters(like for a lawn mower)didn't take off yet and try blowing through it.
also after studying the diagram i see from top to bottom solenoids listed....do they match up t to b right to left
barometer solenoid--far right
wast gate sol--left of that one^
egr you pointed out...left of that^
purge sol on the left of egr.

[fochtup1]

also the check valve i answered by going back through your pics(looks like an inline filter)
do i want it to blow out the line or in...lets outside air pull in during vacuum or stop it from pulling in.
thanks, justin

[Screamin4banger]

I just saw you had some ??'s..

In the pic of the solenoids I posted... I labeled each port individually.
for example, where it says 'EGR' and there's a line... that line is going to that particular port - not saying "this is the egr solenoid" . So, it should be a no-brainer.
3 lines to manifold,
1 to egr transducer,
1 to wastegate can,
1 to map sensor (goes thru firewall by harness to LM),
1 to the little port on the charcoal canister,
1 to the little port on the throttle body,
4 OPEN ('BLEED'whatever)

count 'em up:



YELLOW orifice for wastegate can:



I'll have to check out the check valve to see what it does for sure.
-too tired to trust my memory right now

[mmtphoto]

not trying to hijack this, quick question-

can you still get orfice tubes and check valves for these things? I took my 88 daytona turbo z apart years ago to replace the turbo, but even before that I know i removed and replaced broken and cracked vacuum lines so there are no orfices or check valves that I can see on my engine-does that explain why I am only getting about 6 lbs boost without a bleed (needs the orfice tube)? With bleed I am now getting about 12, but when it was new and stock I got that without a bleed.

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmtphoto not trying to hijack this, quick question- can you still get orfice tubes and check valves for these things? I took my 88 daytona turbo z apart years ago to replace the turbo, but even before that I know i removed and replaced broken and cracked vacuum lines so there are no orfices or check valves that I can see on my engine-does that explain why I am only getting about 6 lbs boost without a bleed (needs the orfice tube)? With bleed I am now getting about 12, but when it was new and stock I got that without a bleed.

Are you trying to be 'stock'? cause thats what this is all about in this thread.
I know an 88 is different than this

can you buy them, sure. a check-valve is a check-valve... and you should be able to get new orifices from any pneumatic shop.
a quick search turned up this: Our Orifice Restrictors
so q more in-depth search should get you more options.

I dunno what size orifice that is (i wanna say .020 - but don't quote me) so I said don't lose it

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fochtup1 also the check valve i answered by going back through your pics(looks like an inline filter) do i want it to blow out the line or in...lets outside air pull in during vacuum or stop it from pulling in. thanks, justin

I almost forgot

I'm thinking it is there to blow out.

the computer only turns off the EGR system only at idle and WOT, so I would think it should be installed to not let any air in under vacuum, and to allow air to escape under boost.