Wont Run Past 6 Secands! please Help!

[turbokid]

The HEP (Hall Effect Plate) is the black disk that sits in the distributor.
There are two wires that come from this
I would take the distributor apart and look at the disk. If it is slightly disfigured or brittle looking replace it. The wires that go to the HEP are usually the culprit so wiggle the wires (whiles its running) and See if you can keep it going
I would also put a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve (valve on the fuel rail) and monitor it once you start it up to see if it falls off.
This sounds like an electrical issue forsure.
If the other things dont work I would suggest wiggling the wiring to the computer to see if you can get a change in its running.
Report back once you have done this
Q

[crazymadbastard]

here is a reference:


Fuel Injector Sync Pickup Sensor - MiniMopar Resources

Fault Codes
If the logic module receives a signal from the ignition reference sensor without any signal from the fuel injector sync pickup sensor, a fault code 54 is stored. The 1985 logic module will turn on the power loss light and enter limp-in mode. The logic module will then guess at injector timing and any signal from the detonation sensor will apply to all cylinders. For all other model years, the engine will stall or not start.

[87glhs]

Check to make sure the fuel return line is not blocked--it is the small line that runs between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel tank.

If it is plugged it will cause the engine to run for <30sec and then it will sputter out and die. If you wait a second or two, it will then re-start and do the same thing.

Try disconnecting the line at the fuel pressure regulator AND at the fuel tank and then blow a bit of air through the line. If it goes through ok, try blowing some air (<10psi) into the return line port on the fuel tank (usually located on the sending unit)--it would probably be a good idea to remove your fuel cap when you do this.

The air should go through freely--there should be no back-pressure or blow-back. If it's blocked at the tank, it's probably rust packed in the metal tubing on the sending unit assembly in the tank and you'll have to drain/drop the tank to get it out and clean it.

This typically happens when the vehicle sits for long periods and there is a lot of loose rust in the tank. If you find this to be the case, a good radiator shop can usually steam out the tank and seal it with a product called "red coat", or you could replace it for about $90 with an aftermarket.

Be careful not to damage the sending unit--doubt if it can be replaced anymore. Good luck!