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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 06-03-2008, 11:54 PM   #31
Re: AC R-12 to R134a retrofitting  
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Our cars do not use an orifice tube, they use an expansion valve.Usually when they fail the low side will go into a vacuum, the compressor will be engaged and no cooling, we see it on Jeeps all the time.
The controller only controls the ground side of the A/C clutch relay and and will turn the relay off under high load conditions such as high boost, wot, etc. It should not affect the A/C at idle.
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:12 PM   #32
Re: AC R-12 to R134a retrofitting  
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Fun fun. Im going to be doing this this weekend. I had a couple of questions before going about this. Im going to pump down my compressor....anyway of checking to see if the compressor is bad before going any further? Another thing.....the oil. I read on here to only use Ester oil....do i need to do that when i pump down the compressor or do i just pump it down change the fittings and then pump in new refrigerant? If i need to add oil do i need to get all the old oil out and if so how? Temps here are getting into the 90s now and i cant go without a/c for another summer.
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:17 PM   #33
Re: AC R-12 to R134a retrofitting  
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rule of thumb
for high side operating pressures is double ambient (F) temperature plus or minus 10%.
for low side operating pressure is 10% of high side pressure plus or minus 10%

also after reviewing the thread i've noticed nobodies talked about leak detection methods.
three methods are:
- electronic sniffers
-dye and UV light
-dry nitrogen and soapy water

my opinions..electronic sniffers are CRAP...dye and UV works good, and my favorite is dry nitrogen and soapy water, its inexpensive and faster.
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