ABS, Hesitating, Wacky Idling

[the.palmetto]

Please help!!!! There have been alot of things going wrong in my R/T all at once it seems. My Anti-Lock idiot light came on today and I thought it was a fluke because it went out the next time I started the car. Anyways, it came on again and I tested the ABS from about 55mph to be certain, and sure enough my wheels locked up, the ABS did not kick in and I skidded to a stop. This is strange to me because just last year I replaced the hydraulic assembly. What could this be? I am not getting a code for anything to do with the braking system.

The car hesitates when I am driving and it "feels" like something is just not right. It is not driving smoothly at all. When it idles it pulses between like 800 and 1300 rpms and overall is just behaving really odd. The only code I'm getting that remotely would be associated with anything is 53 for logic module internal fault. The weird thing to me is, this code has been there for a while with seemingly no problems except for some really bad gas mileage which actually turned out to be a vacuum hose issue. Does the code 53 sound like it is the problem or do I have other issues on my hands? Thanks alot in advance for any help you guys can give

[NAJ]

First ABS codes are accessed thru the CCD bus connector not the underhood diag connector and you need a scanner to access them.
As far as the engine running problem with the code 53 it is going to hard to tell but check all your basics such as ignition malfunctions, cracked/broken vacuum lines etc.

[the.palmetto]

The symptoms have gotten worse today. I went out about an hour ago and it started up but there was a knock under the hood that sped up with the engine speed. I needed to get somewhere so just decided to drive while it is seemingly limping along. I didn't even get 100 yards. I was in 2nd gear and the rpms slowly rolled off until the car died and the gas pedal was not changing anything at all. I tried starting it up again and it wouldn't start. The starter was cranking away and NOTHING!! I think it gave up the ghost!!!! What is happening to my daytona!??!?!?

[bsbllfit7]

my guess is you had rod knock and now your engine is seized, check your oil levels and hopefully they are full. Because you said there was a knock it does sound like you threw a rod or ran out of oil or something. Not positive just what im thinking

[ol"blue]

You said it was "cranking away, but wouldn't start". You stated running funny, not right. No power. It's obviously not seized up if it'll turn over.
The knocking sound might have just been detonation from fuel starvation. Check fuel pump, lines and pressure.

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol"blue You said it was "cranking away, but wouldn't start". You stated running funny, not right. No power. It's obviously not seized up if it'll turn over. The knocking sound might have just been detonation from fuel starvation. Check fuel pump, lines and pressure.

Yeah it is definately not seized. There is plenty of oil and it turns over so that is not it.

What you are saying probably makes the most sense. I will do some actual real troubleshooting tomorrow when I get the chance. Everything up to the FPR is less than 6 months old. The injectors are all good and I just tested my fuel pressure a few days ago and it was fine. Anyway, I pushed the prong on the fuel servicing port and fuel came out so fuel is in there. When I turn the key to ON I hear the fuel pump do its thing like clockwork. I will test the pressure and all that again anyways to make sure though.

Doesn't detonation cause like holes in stuff though? I thought big problems come from that. I will pull the plugs and check compression to see if anything like that happened. I will make another post tomorrow when I have a definative set of answers from the troubleshooting. Do you think maybe the knock is a sign of timing being thrown off or an ignition problem? Maybe the code 53 didn't cause problems until now because it was a minor problem and built up to be a big problem and throw off A/F and timing and stuff? Just guesses, does any of them make sense? I'm hoping I did not throw a rod or spin a bearing though. HOPEFULLY it is something simple. But you know how that goes...

[NAJ]

Be sure your Cam timing is correct.

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Be sure your Cam timing is correct.

How do I check Cam timing?

[NAJ]

Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on a compression stroke and be sure the timing mark is at 0.
Remove the upper timing cover and be sure the cam sprockets are properly aligned.

[Sittn86]

Perhaps all your problems could be traced back to a faulty ground?

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on a compression stroke and be sure the timing mark is at 0. Remove the upper timing cover and be sure the cam sprockets are properly aligned.

I'm assuming I can manually crank the engine from something that is connected to the timing belt? I have never messed with timing so just bear with me. If I had to adjust the cam timing would that mean having to take off the timing belt and retension the belt again? I guess if my timing is opposite for some reason then it would miss everytime because the pistons would be at the bottom of the compression stroke...that is if spark, fuel, and air are present right? Just a guess though.

sittin86, I don't think it is a ground issue if everything electrical is working. The engine turns over. The only ground issue would have to be an ignition thing.

BTW, all this is totally hypothetical. I haven't been able to troubleshoot anything because I have to work 11 days straight and I am dead tired everyday and work swing shift. Wow, this sucks.

[the.palmetto]

Scratch all that. I have done the troubleshooting today. I found that I have no spark. I even changed out the crank sensor and coil but neither worked. I am starting to assume the ECU is bad because of the code 53. I can't really think of anything else at this point.

[NAJ]

Chrysler diagnostics even state you cannot go any further on a no start with a code 53 until the controller is replaced.

[Powerlinefixer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Chrysler diagnostics even state you cannot go any further on a no start with a code 53 until the controller is replaced.

Keep in mind that a modified SBEC will give the "Internal Module Fault" and that is normal. The SBECs are very reliable and it is rare that they fail, but if you are 100% (not 99%) sure that the computer is stock, you should replace it if you get a code 53.

No spark will also occur if the cam and crank signals are not in sync. Sometimes out of sync cam/crank will throw a code, but a lot of times it wont. Broken or skipped timing belt is most likely to give no spark. Bad sensors and wiring can be at fault to, especially if there is a lot of leaked out oil on the sensors.

Make sure all of your engine grounds are connected and good. Make sure your terminals are clean and tight, and that your battery is good. Check all your connectors and make sure the pinouts and sockets are clean and not damaged.

[the.palmetto]

^ Thanks for that info. I was finally able to swap out the SBEC today and it didn't solve the problem. At first I was only getting codes 12, 53 (to be expected, the new one is from FWD), and 55. I tried to start, still cranking away. Still no spark. Tinkered a little more and cleaned up some grounds. I tried to get the codes again and it picked up a new one that never came up before.

This time it was a code 54. What you say about the sync issue makes a lot of sense now. The timing belt is fine though. I replaced the crank sensor with a known good one and that wasn't it. Do you think the Cam sensor is bad? Allpar says it could be the cam sensor, distributor timing, or no sync pickup. Is no sync different than not in sync? I can pretty much rule out distributor timing because I have a coilpack. If there's no spark at all it can't be timing right? I swapped it out anyway and still no spark.

By the way, Allpar says a Code 11 would be the timing belt issue or a bad sensor but I didn't get 11, it was 54. But it says cam sensor for 54 too. Does no sync sound more likely, or the sensor, or maybe both? I am stumped right now.

Wait a second! It can't be a sync issue since that deals with the distributor, which I don't have, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. Does this sound like the sensor after all?

I hope it isn't the cam sensor, it's expensive!