High Boost Hesitation and fumes smell, Please help

[nickmills77]

Hello all I am new to the Turbo scene. I have owned many cars in my day but never a turbo one.

I just bought this car today and I have a problem already I just purchased a 1989 Daytona ES. When I test drove the car it ran like a champ. (in town at low speeds). On my way home I got a chance to get it up to speed (65ish) and I noticed that when the car gets more than 5-6 lbs of boost (according to the gauge) I get a huge hesitation, power loss, and foul smell of fumes. If i back off the gas to minimal boost it seems to equal out and run normal again, until I try to speed up.

any help is more than appreciated.

Edit: When my fiancee was behind me she said she noticed a bit of black smoke at the same time I was experiencing this problem.

I also want to add that when the engine is up to temp. and I turn the car off. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start again. When the engine is cold it has no issues starting rite up.

[nickmills77]

I ran the trouble codes and 12,22,45 came back.

[s10425i]

code 45. check all your vacuum lines. especially the one to the map sensor and the lines to the wastegate solenoid and from the solenoid to the wastegate.....you may also have a coolant temp sensor issue with the code 22 which could cause your car to go into limp in mode. is your cooling fan running all the time with the switch on? the engine may have to be running i am not sure but if your cooling fan is running constantly then that is usually a good indication of a coolant temp sensor problem.....code 12 is pretty common. battery was disconnected at some point in time within past 15 ignition cycles.
let us know how it goes.

[Sittn86]

Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator. If it's wet inside, buy a new FPR.

Do what ^ said, too.

[nickmills77]

Thanks for the replys. I am going to take some pictures of my engine bay tomorrow. I have a few questions reguarding a Bolt in the end of one of the vacuum lines and other misc. stuff.


I will update as soon as I get my Digital cam charged.

[nickmills77]

here is the picture of what I call a MESS!! This is the first car i saw with sooo many vacuum lines running into each other.

I'm hoping this is wrong so it can be corrected. Please notice the red circle in the one pic that indicates a Bolt being used as a plug!?!?






as far as checking to see if the vacuum lines from the wastegate to the silenoid.. This is my first turbo car. someone please explain where I can find these parts under the hood ;p thanx


I pulled the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and I have NO gas or even a gas smell comming from it... I believe I might have a leaky fuel injector. Because if I rev the car up a few times when I start it the hesitation and black smoke stop and the car seems to run fine for a while.

What should my boost gauge be reading during idle / normal driving / hard acceleration?

[NAJ]

OMG!!!!! That is a mess. You have to straighten out that vacuum line nightmare.
Your boost gauge should read engine vacuum at idle(16-20" HG) and off idle depends how hard you are on the throttle.
Backprobe the CTS connector while it is still plugged in and the key on and read the voltage, the voltage to temp chart is posted in a sticky in the engine management section.
If the voltage is out of range disconnect the connector and with the key on probe the 2 terminals in the harness connector with your voltmeter, the voltage should read 5 volts, if so replace the CTS.

[nickmills77]

noob question... WTF is a Orifice? what does it do and where do I get one ;p

[NAJ]

The orifices are restrictors placed in the vacuum lines by the factory.
Weather they truely make a difference or are totally needed I do not know.
The majority of my factory plastic vacuum harness has been replaced and I did not even think about the orifices so if they are gone I do not see any difference at all.

[charger R/T]

There are some good threads on this site about redoing the vacuum system with alot less mess by starting with a vacuum block and just running all new lines. Here is one thread I just looked up. Installing a Vacuum Block Just one note on your search vacuum is one of the most mispelled words around so do the search with incorrect spellings as well. try vaccuum, vacume, vaccum. I did notice the vacuum diagram NAJ posted shows the wastegat sol. but does not show the vacuum line coming off of it going to the wastegate. So keep that in mind. The wastegate is mounted to the turbo.
Tim

[nickmills77]

Ok today I used Seafoam in my car. I've been told by many people that after the 5-10 min waiting period you should drive the car hard, in order to get the seafoam in all the nooks and cranny's. This is the first time i've drove this car "hard" due to worries about the breakdown effect ;p. I noticed that I cannot get the rpms to go higher than 3500. In neutral it will rev to redline if I want it to. but in gear (1st, 2nd, or Drive) when i'm at 3500 rpms the turbo is reading max boost and the car is studdering and bucking like crazy. Boost goes from max to 0 and back a few times, then i gave up on trying. Is this normal in daytona's?

[NAJ]

No not normal, sounds like you are hitting overboost, all related to your vacuum issues.

[nickmills77]

Is this what i'm trying to achieve? please correct me before i start to pull the lines off ;p

[janus]

looks good to me! the MESS you had looks even worse than the one i had on mine - hope you are successful in clearing it up

[nickmills77]

Ok in my struggles to make this car run correctly... I came across my "Vacuum-Quick Release Valve" that had a crack in the side of it which was leaking. Sooo I removed it. NOW the car runs pretty much fine EXCEPT for the fact that i can't get more than 7-10lbs of boost. Is this valve causing me to not reach full boost? Where can I buy one? is there a way of making one?

my local parts stores Napa / advanced auto dont carry anything turbo related for my 89 2.5L turbo