PLEASE READ! +20's, red hot turbo

[Canty]

OK, I am in the middle of playin with my my 89 Daytona. I have had the motor and head reworked top to bottom, 2.5 inch exhaust with no cat. My next step was to get a custom cal and 3 bar map then injectors and turbo. (boy I hope that was in the right order) I was having a fuel issue. It was running rich or so I thought. I thought I might of had a stuck injector or bad regulator, so I picked up some +20's and a new stock pressure regulator (I read on here that stock was good up to 15 psi of boost) OK so I drove the car up to Cary NC from Fayetteville, that is about a 60-70 mile drive. I went through 3/4 tank of fuel and when I was and bout half way up there the engine would not rev past 3200. It kept bogging down something terrible. Then the turbo started making a terrible noise (loose, metal to metal sound) I pulled over and lifted the hood and my turbo, swingvalve and exhaust mani were all glowing red hot. I could understand if I was running lean, but is that even possible, with the STRONG smell of fuel in the exhaust and 3/4 tank of fuel gone plus fuel smell in my oil is it even possible that I am running lean??? I am so lost at this point. All I know is that now I have to buy a new turbo and maybe go back to stock injectors. I am going to go check the timing but it looked dead on and I dont have a timing light to make sure. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give me ideas!!!
Matt
PS: if you are clueless on this subject maybe you can explain the injectors? Does +20's (or any of the others) flow the same amount of fuel at idle? Only +20 at WOT? I thought I knew but now I am not sure.

[moparfreak3]

Yes running extremely rich will cause the turbo to glow. Also the plus 20 injectors will flow 20% over stock at 55 psi so without a calibration made for them it will run rich throughout the rpm range.

[phantomrt]

When an engine runs rich enough, the exhaust gasses can continue to burn long after it has left the combustion chamber and can make that manifold/turbo HOT. People who tune their engines using just an EGT guage are unaware of this phenomenon.

To use up 10 gallons of gas in 70 miles... Thats 7 mpg. This thing was just DUMPING in fuel unless you have a major fuel line leak. I think your engine is toast now.

Imagine your air compressor blow gun. A small nozzle will result in a certain amount of air to flow through it. A bigger nozzle will result in substantially more air flow. How do you reduce the air flow through the larger nozzle? Turn down the air pressure in the tank. Same principle applies to the fuel injectors.

[jrye68]

if u want to run +20s with no custom cal u have to have a afpr to lower ur fuel pressure

[Canty]

I just went and adjusted the timing on the car...NO BOOST in fact 4lbs of vac at the least up to 12, but the car accelerated MUCH better and actully drove pretty...well, it drove. I will replace the turbo, head gasket, injectors and use a timing light on the car. While I am at it I will check the rings and rod bearings just incase any fuel got in there and put a scratch or two on them. I think that should fix it due to how the car ran tonight after my first post. Thanks for the help guys. If anyone has anything to add please do so. I am always open to new ideas.
Matt

[moparfreak3]

Trade you my stock t2 injectors for your +20'S

[phantomrt]

You should have 18-19 inches of vacuum at hot idle. A little less depending on how high you are above sea level. For a reference, my car only pulled 13-14" of mercury at 11,000 feet.

[Canty]

Thanks for all the replies guys, and no I dont think I wanna trade the injectors...I will use them later when I finish my upgrades.
Matt

[jim34]

The +20's alone wouldnt cause it to be that rich because the o2 sensor can compensate enough to make it run decent, although very rich I would suspect a tooth off on the cam timing or the dist time off by at least 15 degrees.