damn dodge!!!!

[bm_zimmer]

As the title says! lol! i have a 88 lancer thats been converted to t2. t2 block internals, head and turbo. i installed everyhing in it and im having trouble getting the car to run right.it will run good till the car warms up, it seems to act like it is loading up.
i cant seem to get the car to rev right, after it warms up. i rev it up(loads up, have to step on gas pedal and stay in it) and it stalls instead of coming to idle. then it is hard to start again. ive double checked cam timing, but i have not checked distibutor timing because i dont have a timing light or access to one.
the car is also not throwing codes. i just replaced the head gasket in it. not 1 mile on the head gasket. any suggestions would help. thanks, brian

[turbokid]

Sounds like a map problem to me!
Make sure a good vac line is going to map sensor. If so unplug the map sensor and see if it makes it worse.
If nothing changes then you got yourself a map problem
If it does I would look at your fuel pressure next or possibley pull a plug and make sure they aren't fouled out because of a gas related problem.
Pretty easy to check distributor timing.
Just make sure you are at tdc then take your distributor out and the little insert should be facing east west (north being towards the block)

[NAJ]

+1 on fuel pressure and map vacuum.
What is engine vacuum at a manifold source? 16-20" HG?
What is engine vacuum at the baro solenoid and from the baro to map?
Should be reading engine vacuum.
When ignition timing is correct (12 deg btdc) the distributor housing will be parallel to the block.
If your intermidiate shaft is not correctly aligned you could be way off.

[bm_zimmer]

now i cant get the car to stay running. im gonna go get some gas just in case it is to low to get proper fuel pressure.
the plugs that i pulled were black like it was running real rich. i cleaned them real good with brakeclean and took 280 grit sand paper to the plugs to clean them up a little bit. car still wont start. ive got a phantom to work out lol.

[NAJ]

Low fuel will not create a black rich condition.
Disconnect your fuel pump connector so you do not flood the engine anymore and...
Do you have spark? Remove the coil wire from the cap, hold 1/4" from a good ground and crank the engine for 10 seconds, is the spark strong and consistant? If no diagnose and correct the no spark condition. If yes recheck at a spark plug wire, if no spark diagnose and repair, if yes....., count 1-2 sparks as no spark.
Verify the Cam timing is 100% correct and get the distributor set properly, it will be when the intermidiate shaft is properly aligned and the distributor housing is parallel to the block.
Check fuel pressure, is static pressure 53-57 psi and holding steady?
Are the injectors pulsing are staying energized?
Check MAP and CTS circuits.
FYI, smell the oil, if it is fuel diluted you may want to change it before cranking the engine for prolonged periods, fuel diluted oil will wash down the cylinder walls that is why during diagnostics for a no start other than the fuel system you need the fuel system disabled.

[Twisted Noodle]

+1 on the spark. I had a similar problem on my Nissan. Coil was shorting out inside the distributor. (coil mounts inside the distributor on the sentra, can't buy just the coil, need to buy the whole distributor w/ the coil for a modest $400.00) Now it's a boat anchor.

[bm_zimmer]

got the car running. needed gas. doh! anyways,
i got the car running right. ign. timing was off, now set to 12*.car is running alot better. had timming belt to tight. loosened and now runs middle of cam gear. no studdering when i rev the motor. i havent been able to check fuel pressure yet. i was interupted.
new problem though. i threw codes 13 and 15. code 13 was thrown because i pulled the vacuum hose off, i think.
speed sensor i have no idea why it tripped because i didnt go anywhere.
cooling fan wont turn on either. i have to check the fuse.
plugs looked better after car ran for a while.
vacuum was checked at 16.5 hg and went to 5-0ng when i reved the motor.

thanks, brian

[bm_zimmer]

well i took the car for a ride and it seems to be running ok but i have no lowend power.
i want to make sure i am at the right degree of timing. looking at the auto tranny at the window the numbers read as follow: 0..4..8..12..14
i have it timed to the 12* mark. is this correct. thanks, brian

[bm_zimmer]

[turbokid]

I timing mark on tranny you want at 0.
12 btdc is for the timing gun!
Redo your timing and try again.
Go to www.thedodgegarage.com and read through the timing section ( and the whole site if you haven't already)
Third times the charm
Q

[NAJ]

[bm_zimmer]

so i timed it and timed it and retimed it again. i keep ending up with the same result. i took the timing belt off and would skip a tooth back and start the car. then i would skip a tooth towards the front on the cam gear. when i skiped the cam gear teeth it would run worse than the way i had it. i tried to fine tune it each time and it still ran like sh*t. would the auto tranny kill the bottom end power in it or is there something still wrong.
compression tested at 132-128-130-127.
plugs are no longer black. they look like they are sparking fine and its running clean.