Not getting fuel through injectors?

[Cyr Performance]

Hello everyone, need help with a good friends car problem. 85 Dodge 600 2.2 turbo had engine rebuilt about 1200 miles ago and has had numerous problems since. Other day car wasn't starting so I adjusted the timing a hair and got it to fire up then used timing light and set to 8 degrees. Car idled in driveway for 45-50 mins. and suddenly cut off. could not get refired so left alone. today tried firing and got nothing so pulled plugs and they were drowning in fuel. Now it's not getting enough fuel. Have to spray starting fluid to get running normal. PLEASE HELP

[puppet]

Check fault codes first.
Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

[Cyr Performance]

Couldn't get the power loss light to flash codes today but going to try again tomorrow. Big problem is that when he got this car rats had chewed the wiring harness under the dash and it has pieced backed together hopefully right but the power loss light has always been on. Thanks and hopefully I will come up with something in the a.m.

[NAJ]

If you cannot get the codes then you have to determine what is missing or which system is malfunctioning. There may be some redundantcy here but you need to start at the beginning of no start diagnostics.
If you can retrieve codes it will make things easier.
When testing while cranking the engine unplug the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine again.Be sure the oil is not fuel diluted from the previous flooding problem, this will create a rich mixture and will wash down the cylinder walls while cranking/running.
You stated that rats chewed the interior wiring, Your Logic Module is located behind the R/S Kick panel, be sure that the wiring is still intact and not damaged and that the vacuum supply line to the MAP sensor(located on the LM) is not damaged.
To be sure start by checking all of the power supplies to the LM and LM grounds, without a scanner you will not know about sensor inputs or output commands to sensors/solenoids without checking each circuit manually.
If all is ok proceed.....
Start by testing the ASD relay circuit. The ASD powers the fuel pump, injectors and ignition coil. Leave the fuel pump connected for this test.
Locate the underhood diagnostic connector(in the harness near the controller) and with the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL wire, this will actuate the ASD, the fuel pump should run, and there should be power at the DG/BK wire at the injector harness and at the + coil.
If 1 or more is missing post back.
If all is present remove the ground wire, unplug the fuel pump and while cranking the engine for 10 seconds check for constant power at the + coil.
If it is present the HEP circuit is good, if no power post back.
Next connect a fuel pressure gauge and be sure static fuel pressure is good and holding, grounding the DB/YL wire as you did earlier will make the pump run and you can read static pressure(53-57 psi) and when you remove the ground and the pump stops the pressure should hold, if it drops suddenly post back.
If pressure is good and holding check for strong and consistant spark from the coil wire to ground(hold wire 1/4" from ground, any further could result in controller damage) and at the spark plugs.
If no spark is present post back, if spark is present the other items that will affect fuel are injector control circuits( a noid light will tell you if the injectors are being pulsed) MAP Sensor circuit, Coolant Temp sensor circuit.

[Cyr Performance]

Ok so I wasn't rolling the key all the way back because of the lever that needs to be pushed down in front of the key. Sorry Codes 12, 13, 54, 55, 12 I guess is a key on code, 13 is map signal and 54 isno sync pick-up signal. The car will start rough then will not rev or idle for more than 5-10 sec. at a time, lack of fuel through injectors. I did check the fuel lines and vacuum lines and found the fuel lines backwards with the regulator on the return side. Couple of vacuum lines are disconnected and routed really wrong but have to figure those out here shortly.

[NAJ]

Post back if you need more info or if you get it running.

[Cyr Performance]

Thanks, I ordered a MAP sensor so I try that Monday and post back.

[NAJ]

OK, just remember that code 13 is the MAP Pneumatic (vacuum) circuit.
If the controller does not see a change in pressure from key on to start the code will be set.Vacuum runs from the manifold to the baro solenoid to the Map sensor.
Chrysler also had problems with LM mounted Map sensors with moisture freezing in the vacuum line so be sure the line is clear and free of moisture.

[Cyr Performance]

Holey crap I am starting to hate this freakin car! I replaced the pick up coil in the distributor and found the 2 sets of wires that come of it were cut and 5 of the 6 have found a home. The distributor had a lot of play in it so grabbed a decent one from the junk yard and now the car won't even fire up but flashes the same 54 code while you crank it. Please help!

[NAJ]

Just need some clarifaction.
Not sure what you mean by they were cut, you went looking for a used HEP and the wiring was cut so you got a used distributor with the used HEP?

[Cyr Performance]

Bought the new pick up (HEP), when I went to install it the plugs were torn off one set of wires and one wire from the vehicle harness is not connected to anything. the pick up wires are red, green, and black on both sets. Of course they don't color match to the vehicle's harness. Hopefully this helps you to help me

[NAJ]

[Cyr Performance]

See I have that page in the Chilton manual but the pick up has red, green, black and that page shows red, grey, black and that is how I have them but it still shoots that 54 code while cranking. I also just replaced the MAP sensor and when I did that the car actually started and idled rough but wouldn't rev. Now it doesn't even start.

[NAJ]

[Cyr Performance]

Thanks that will be a huge help in the a.m.
Again Thank You so very much for all the help.