More problems than I have left fingers....

[kaijhe_jsziack]

Well, I thought my Lebaron was all ready for inspection today when I fired it up, and then I found out that I have a huge amount of problems after I drove it, all really odd and seemingly unrelated.

First off, it never drops below high idle. When I first start it during 40 degree weather, the 2200 ish rpm idle kicks in, and a minute or so later, it drops to 1500. But, it's stays at the 1500 mark regardless of the temp.

Second, brakes. I have no braking power. The pedal is solid, but it takes all my force (and a shift into neutral) to mash the brake pedal enough to stop. I am no expert, but I am prone to think that it is vacuum related??

Third, no reverse lights, new bulbs, cleaned the contact points. I can't find any help on this subject referring to the Haynes manual I have. Is there a sensor in the shifter?

Fourth, dead radio. This isn't necessarily a huge problem, but since my stereo is an odd size, I was wondering if there's any good swaps between TD's or Dodges in general.

Fifth, turbo. Turbo is whacky. Little boost, lots of noise. I don't even know where to begin, but long story short, it is making a lot of noisy during acceleration, engine shut off, etc. The oil is full, so I doubt it's starving for oil, but, I am lost in that department.

Sixth, auto tranny leaks about a quart every 3 days. It shifts okay, but it loses fluid really fast. Are there any quick fixes like putting tape around the leaky part to prevent more leakage?

Well, thanks for the suggestions in the past. Right now I am just hoping to get this thing on the road so I can drive again, then later, get the good stuff.

Thanks a bunch.
K

[TheCanadian007]

Hey K, for the first problem, I'm not quite sure; I'm not very familiar with the fuel injected dodges, but it could be a coolant sensor, maybe try checking for fault codes?

Second problem, the brakes are boosted by manifold vacuum, check the hoses which run from the intake to the brake booster for cracks or a missing plug on the check valve.

Reverse lights are operated by a neutral safety switch which can be found on the front of the transmission. Should have a 3 wire lead coming off it. It's around a 7/8 or 1" size threaded plug. I ended up swapping my broken one out for one from a wrecking yard. Not too hard to do.

Turbo issues could be caused by a number of things, once again check for fault codes and also what kinda boost are you getting at WOT? Could be a wastegate issue.

Leaky auto trans would have to be either from the transmission pan, or from one of the lines which runs to/from the cooler. Both possibilities are fairly easy to fix. You should grab a creeper and check underneath and see where it's leaking from. If there's any leaking from the pan, a simple gasket kit from your local autoparts store should work, drop the pan + new gasket. RTV sealant may work as well if a gasket isn't available. If a leaky line is the problem, locate the crack or leaking hose and simply replace it with one of equal diameter and pressure rating from your local parts store.

Other users may chime in too to correct me. I run a carb'd car so I have little experience with turbos. Before you do anything, checking for fault codes would be your best bet.

Best of Luck, TheCanadian007

[dragbaron]

I'd say your first two problems are related. Vacuum leak from brake booster hose or booster itself could cause hard pedal, and a high idle. Reverse light problem could be the switch on the trans(lower front), it should be the only electrical plug on your trans (check fuses first). Any late model Dodge radio up until about 2000 model year will bolt and plug right in. I like to get the factory tape/cd radios, but even a factory cd radio is nice. Just as long as it's your radio that's the problem. You may have a boost leak, check all hoses and clamps, if what you're hearing sounds like alot of air blowing. Could possibly be a bad turbo also. I had one where the compressor wheel was hitting the housing(bad bearings), it made alot of noise and hardly any boost! The tranny leak needs to be found and fixed. Could be a bad cooler hose, leaking pan gasket, or one of the many seals. You won't know how easy or difficult the fix is until you find it!

[NAJ]

+1 on high idle and brake problem being related, either external vacuum leak or faulty booster.
If the car is an automatic the backup light switch is part of the neutral saftey switch.

[kaijhe_jsziack]

Thanks guys. I haven't been able to check the vacuum leak yet, but the auto tranny pan is bent, causing a big gaping leak right near the bottom of the pan. Looks like the front end collision caused this and over time, the leak grew. Anyone got a pan for an a413?

The car has a lot of cracked hoses that I have replaced recently, so it looks like you're right with the vacuum leaks there. I'll check it tomorrow, and it looks like I'll be at a wrecking yard too.

[kaijhe_jsziack]

Instead of starting a new thread, I'll update this one.

New problem arose, but the others are generally fixed. The brake hose needed to be fixed (which solved that and the high idle problem at the same time, you were right). The turbo vacuum line right by the wastegate had the same story, so the turbo is fine (whew!)

The main problem I have now is regarding the transmission, and not the leak. Turns out there was a leaky hose as well. The main problem now is that the transmission is intermittently engaging in and out. Only on startup. If I am running the car, even at 10 mph, it remains engaged, but occasionally at a traffic light or stop sign, the car seems to shift by itself into neutral. I have to gun it a little to get it to engage. I checked the fluid level, and it is too high. Could this cause the problem?

Also, about the reverse lights, I can find the sensor or switch as it was called. Someone said the "Front of the tranny", but I am not sure which is the front. The front of the car side? Also, I found a little floating plug, which I am curious to figure out what it is.

[pooty]

The "floating plug" is probably the vent (normal). The nuetral saftey/backup switch is on the front of the tranny (parrallel to the front of the car). There is only one plug with three wires (NOT the one near the dipstick as this is for the TC lockup solenoid).

How over full is it (location on dipstick)? Overfilled trannies can definitely cause problems.

Also, check your axle seals for leaks.

[kaijhe_jsziack]

The dipstick reads 1/4 into the "HOT" zone when ice cold. I can't remember actually if the fluid is supposed to be in the "ADD" zone when the car is cold, or if the level of fluid is normal now.

[pooty]

Where exactly is the pan bent or dented? Is it bent towards the rear? Is the dent deep? If so, the pan could be crushed against the trans. filter. Your symptoms sound like a transmission that is being starved or low on tranny fluid.

[kaijhe_jsziack]

Tranny pan (it's actually the pan next to the driver side front wheel) the one that is perpendicular to the ground, is bent right at the bottom. I just checked the tranny fluid level again and now it's completely empty. It looks like I managed to lose 2 quarts in the driveway just now (really big red lake underneath the car)

I think one of my tranny lines is leaking, probably from the radiator side, because that is where the puddle is.

P.S. I know I am probably being an idiot, but I still can't find the neutral switch. I can't see anything from the top of the car (looking from the hood in). Is it from the bottom of the car that you see it?

[NAJ]

If the "floating" plug you are referring to is the 6 way electrical connector that is the underhood diagnostic connector.
Here is a pic of the daignostic connector and the neutral safety/backup lamp switch location.

[kaijhe_jsziack]

Thanks, found it finally!

Tranny lines replaced, everything is fixed now, no more problems, I can drive again! Thanks for everyones help.

[NAJ]

Glad to hear you are fixed and running.