Is there such thing as oil that is too thick??

[Shelby87Charger]

I was wondering what type of oil you guys all suggest using. I was wondering if 20w-50 is too thick for a T1 Turbo dodge. I was thinking about using this oil in order to get rid of the periodic oil burning. I decided to try using it and i did notice that at first it raised my oil pressure, until it warmed up. Now that ive got about 1500 miles on the oil, the oil pressure doesnt seem to be overly high, just normal. Also the periodic smoking, that im assuming was coming from the turbo, is now gone. The reason i think its from the turbo is because I have changed the PCV valve a few times, and before i replaced the turbo the engine didnt smoke.
This is not a brand new turbo, and the engine has about 114,000 mile on it. The engine used to be in my shelby charger until i built a motor for it, and it is now in my daytona. When it came out of the charger nothing smoked. Then i changed the turbo with the turbo that wasnt on the car before and it began smoking, only when i was ideling and only occasionally. Which is why i figured that the remedy for this might be to use a little thicker oil. please let me know what you guys think

[1983Rampage]

For Michigan, yes, 20w-50 is WAY too thick. Here in Kansas, it would still be too thick, especially since it is starting to get REALLY cold. If I were you, I would just stick with the 5w-30, or at most maybe 10w-30. But what color of smoke was it? If it were white, then you had a coolant issue, and if it was black, then a fuel issue. The only way it would have been oil is if the smoke was a bluish color.

[Shelby87Charger]

hmm, why would the problem go away after i changed the oil this last time? I dont really remember, i think it was probably black-ish def not white, cause i know that smell and color....

[1983Rampage]

you may have had a little blow by, but with it starting to get cold up there, I would hate to see your engine start to have bearing failure since it would not have enough oil going to the bearings at start up. But if you are having oil get into the cylinders, you may want to find out why it would be there. Either have bead rings, or your valve seals may be bad. But if it was black, then it could be you have a leaking injector, which depending on the engine, you should be able to get injectors fairly easily. If it is for the 2.2l T1 from a SC, then you should be able to get the injectors from almost any of the early cars that were T1, and they should come cheap.

[detobias]

you DD'ing this car in the winter ?

next time you do a cold start watch how long it takes for the oil pressure to come up.. if it seems like there is a lag > 20 sec then you may wish to switch to a 10w40

I always used to run castrol GTX 20W50 in my TDs - in MI ; IMO its not too thick

[1983Rampage]

LOL, spending the big bucks there, I don't have that much money, that is why I stick with Mobil, which is the lowest I will ever go, since it is virtually the same thing as Mopar Oil, but still cheaper. I like to run pure synthetic in my cars when I have the money to.

[turbokid]

Yup I have ran both synthetic and 20w50.
I liked the 20w 50 for dd'ing because of the high oil pressure. You definitely can't beat the synthetic when it comes to performance though as I found the engine idled smoother and was a bit more responsive.

[Shelby Donk]

10w30 royal purple. all day everyday. 20w50 yah thats a little heavy

[Shelby87Charger]

thanks guys for the opinions, i will get to changing my oil as soon as i can, ive got exams coming up this week though, so itll have to wait atleast until the weekend

[boboli]

If you have the money and want to cover the entire range of oil viscosities, mobil one makes a 0w50 synthetic. That may help at start up and then help with the smoking