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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 07-23-2003, 09:49 PM   #16
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by BLUEBALL
since your bleeder is stripped,you can loosen the top therm housing bolt to burp out the air. works everytime. hopefully that is your overheating prob. water pump impellars have been known to rust or rot away the fins and slow down the coolant flow. also might want to have rad flow checked or pressurize the cooling system.
can i quote myself? also did you make sure you didnt have any cracks in any of the coolant passages before reinstalling the head?
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Old 07-23-2003, 11:56 PM   #17
 
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I had the same overheating problem but it was not air it was a head. but it was in the middle of fall so I let it go all winter with some kick @$$ heat and when spring came I junked it ( no it was not a turbo it was my TBI)
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Old 07-24-2003, 06:15 PM   #18
 
T90
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No visible cracks in the coolant passages that I could see. I did however just take the car on a fairly lengthy trip and tested my theory to see if it was fixed, and it seems to be!

The whole way home the temperature never breached teh 1/4 mark and as soon as it hit 1/4 the fan would kick on and drop the temp to the 1/8 mark. Now I am not really all that used to this super cooling, because with the old short core TII rad in there it would stay fairly staionary at th e1/4 or just over mark, never really moving fan on or not.

Now with this full 22 inch 2 core rad I am using as soon as teh fan kicks in it friggin super cools the whole thing! It is great as long as I am not running too cool!

I think it may be fixed, knock on wood, but only time will tell.
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Old 09-24-2003, 07:27 AM   #19
 
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HELP!!!

Lol, i have the SAME thing, i just got done putting the head on after new pistons and rings and mine is doing this stupid, warm up real nice to about 1/4 at idle. Than when i drive it it will start to heat up and heat up and heat up until it hits the 2/3's mark(mark just below the last mark [H]). Then the thermostat must open because it shoots down to the first mark after C. Then it repeats about 4 or 5 times when all is warm it will finally stay around the 1/4 mark going up to the first mark on the gauge.
List of new things:
New water pump half
New Thermostat 195* with hole drilled at the "top"
New Radiator Cap
Coolant system is run so that it's always running through the heater core, it doesn't have the bypass for the A/C on it anymore.

I have tried running the car without a radiator cap, running it for a long time at idle, etc. Nothing seems to work. When i run it at idle w/the cap off, i can sometimes get the the radiator to empty out when the thermostat opens but usually it will just end up overflowing like crazy; yet sometimes it will never overflow when i do that!!!!
AGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!! I've done everything to turn this car from a big POS to actually running and driving and yet this is the only thing left that i have to solve before i can put insurance on it and stop riding my motorcycle to school and freezing in the morning because it's about 45* out!
Any ideas will be appreciated!!!!
 
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