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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 07-22-2003, 04:47 PM   #1
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Head gasket changed, but my temperature is still climbing.

Causes?
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Old 07-22-2003, 05:00 PM   #2
 
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radiator may be clogged
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Old 07-22-2003, 05:11 PM   #3
 
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Power flush the system??
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:15 PM   #4
 
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Air in coolant? Try removing the plug on top of the thermostat housing on the head. Then fill the radiator with the plug off the head. Fill it until coolant comes out the hole then put the plug back in. Then just fill radiator/overflow can.

Did you drill a 1/16 hole in the thermostat? By the way, which thermostat do you have in there?

Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge? If not, I'd say get one (I got a cheap one for 15$CDN at Crappy tire) If you already have one, how many degrees does it get to?
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:56 PM   #5
 
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I tried to remove the burp plug on top but it rounded out before I got it out, so I fill and let it run and add as its running.

I have a 180^ themostat with the hole in it.

Stock temp gauge, but what really troubles me still is the fact that it boils when i shut the car off, and boils quite violently expelling close to a litre of AF/Water into the overflow tank.
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:20 PM   #6
 
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Still might be an air bubble, I've had some cars that took a lot of time to get bled out, even with a hole drilled in the t-stat.

My GLHS was dumping antifreeze out the overflow every time I turned it off, was fine when running. Ended up being a leak where the hose from the overflow connects to the radiator, it was sucking in air instead of coolant.
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:42 PM   #7
 
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ok, I will look at tryingto get that plug out with an easy out.
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Old 07-22-2003, 09:17 PM   #8
 
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I have never had too (or was able to for that matter) remove the bleeder plug on the cylinder head for bleeding the cooling system. I just start the car with radiator cap off, and let it idle until the thermostat opens - and then let it idle until the fan comes on (if you haven't bypassed it). I've always bled cooling systems that way and it has worked every time. Run with heat on some sort of setting to make sure coolant is getting to heater core. If there's air in the system, there will be no/little heat. I replace cap just before the fan turns off, then all is set.

This is all from personal experience on my cars.
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Old 07-22-2003, 09:51 PM   #9
 
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since your bleeder is stripped,you can loosen the top therm housing bolt to burp out the air. works everytime. hopefully that is your overheating prob. water pump impellars have been known to rust or rot away the fins and slow down the coolant flow. also might want to have rad flow checked or pressurize the cooling system.
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Old 07-22-2003, 10:38 PM   #10
 
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Okay guys I think it may have something to do with a blockage in th esystem somewhere or ..... a p0inner hole in the heater core. I have seen some blue haze on the inside of the windshield lately, that I can easily wipe off. I still dont smel;l the antifreeze in th ecar yet so its not that bad.

What lead me to this assumption, I was driving around with the heater on , in this 33 ^ weather, and the air coming from the blower was erratic, it woiuld be warm , tthen HOT, then warm and then HOT, then warm then almost tepid, then hot again.
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Old 07-22-2003, 10:43 PM   #11
 
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Trev,

Sounds definitely like a air-pocket in the system then ...

Get that plug the heck out of there at all costs!

Later,
Craig
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Old 07-23-2003, 12:32 AM   #12
 
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check your water pump and if you changed it it might be the wrong one. It might try to pump it backwards
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Old 07-23-2003, 12:40 AM   #13
 
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Speaking of pumping backwards make sure the belt is on right also. Smooth side of the belt should be on the smooth pulley for the pater pump.

I just pulled the engine out of a parts car and they actually had it on with the belt under the pulley and the ribbed part riding on the smooth pulley turning the water pump backwards.
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Old 07-23-2003, 02:34 PM   #14
 
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As Robert Stack would have said......

"Update"

I ran the car with rad cap off and heater blowing at full , I let the cooling fan cycle once. Just before the fan came on, a load of tiny little bubbles almost like in a glass of pop came up , then the fan came on and teh water level dropped about 2 cups, so I filled it up, just as the fan finished its cycle I put the cap back on. There was considerabley less boiling and actually almost none at all, I think that there is just an air pocket in the heatercore that I will have to work out.

Water pump is the original, so I am not worried about it running backwards unless as quoted by another TD guy "Ninja Gnomes" changed it in the middle of the night on me I have nothing to worry about! LOL
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Old 07-23-2003, 04:53 PM   #15
 
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Sounds like you got it!

gotta watch out for those Ninja Underpants Gnomes, they'll get you every time...
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