I Hate Cars!!!!!

[glhs#064]

heres the story, i have an 86 glhs omni, 2 weeks ago i went to swap intake and exhaust manifolds for ported ones....NIGHTMARE!!!.....after 2 days of trying to get the manifolds off, i decided to take the head off (15 mins of work). so i ported the head and got the valves done while it was off, got a set of +20's, AFPR, relocated batt. in trunk, 52mm t-body, replaced all plastic vac. lines, removed the EGR valve and cleaned all sensors: IAC, IAT.......


problem number one- as soon as the key is turned forward the fan comes on.....possibly fan switch, however it's only like 3 weeks old.

problem number two- when you give it gas, it revs up and kinda stays there at that rpm for a minute and then comes down to idle.... idont remember it being so slow to recover before?

one thing i havent done yet is set the fuel press., since the regulator is used , i would ass-u-me its somewhat right. tommorrow i'm gonna borrow a fuel press guage and set that. i hope one of these problems are from removing the EGR, and yes i did plug the hole.



thanks, matt

[ieatrice]

Is your coolant sensor unplugged? Might explain your fan... most cars turn them on when you don't have your sensor hooked up

[glhs#064]

well here's the weird thing....when it's unplugged the car wont start??? but when it's plugged in the fan turns on???? i know its supposed to start6 w/o being plugged in, cause thats how you set the base timing. maybe i have a bad ground?

[Shelby VNT]

It's not un-common for a turbo Dodge with the coolant temp. sensor unplugged to be a little harder to start. You sometimes have to help it along and give it a bit of fuel. Also, you pulled the head, so it's possible you've got your timing off. It can't hurt to double check timing. That might be why your having troubles getting it started without the coolant temp. sensor plugged in.

About the reving and 'slow to settle back into an idle' proble: Is the car completely back together? Or do you still have it on jack stands with no wheels, ect. The reason I ask is because if you start your car on the stands your wheels will spin slowly, even if it's in neutral because the oil in the tranny provides just enough friction to transmit a little power to the axles and make the wheels spin when they have no load (such as jacked up, off the floor). While they spin, your speed sensor is sending a singal saying the wheels are in motion and that will have an effect on your car's idle characteristics. Put the brakes on and try seeing how your car runs then, with the speed sensor and axles not spinning.

Just some random ideas. Maybe they'll help......

[glhs#064]

yea, its back on the ground w/ the wheels on, i swapped the coolant temp sensor for the old one i had and the fan didnt come on when turned the key forward, but it also didnt come on when i unplugged the sensor, like its supposed to do. i also noticed, after i redid the timing belt, i was setting the timing (CTS disconnected) i set the dist timing at stock 12 deg. and when i plug the CTS back in , instead of advancing a couple degrees at idle, like it should.......it retards the timing to around 0 deg.??????
WTF is goin on here???? any suggestions?




thanks, matt

As far as dangling after a rev and not immediately going back down to idle:
That's the AIS motor not doing it's job. It's not supposed to do that. You can try cleaning out the throttle body or just replacing the AIS motor. (appx $48.99). The car will still be driveable, it will just get worse (idle) after time.

As far as the coolant sensor i would just replace the thing. They have a major importance in the vehicle and are only $9.99. It sounds like both of the ones that you have aren't working correctly anyways.

As far as timing goes: You aren't going to be able to time the base timing without a good coolant temp sensor. So whatever the computer is doing for retarding and/or advancing is correct, your timing may not be though. I would also double check the cam timing since that can be a big problem as far as starting the vehicle easily.

[glhs#064]

well, i spent all day messin with the car today, i got the timing as close as i can get it without an adjustable cam gear. no matter what i did it was a half a tooth off from the haed being machined 2 times and the block was decked before. i already cleaned the IAC motor, i have a brand new one i put in and when i started the car, it wouldnt come down past 4k rpm's. so i took it out and left the plug in, and turned the key forward a few times.....it did nothing, it should move out as far as it goes.


then i got the codes from the comp. theres one for speed sensor (newer sensor) because it takes soo long to come down from an idle. the next code was the coolant sensor....incorect voltage, this is the old sensor i swapped out. the last code was throttle position sensor....incorrect voltage. and the first time i pulled the codes, there was one for the IAC. i'm thinkin the IAC isn't gettin power. but i think the IAC gets signal from the speed sensor and the TPS, maybe they all share a ground or somethin?

[glhsken]

My block was decked .028, head .007. That's .035" and pretty severe. Never had the cam a "Half" tooth off.

The SDS and tps provide inputs to the computer used by the AIS.

[glhs#064]

today, i checked thee plug for the IAC with a test light, it has power on two of the four wires. i also checked the TPS for power, but it wasn't enough for the test ight, so i used a multimeter, i dont really know how to work that thing, but it was gettin power. i redid some grounds also. it still doesnt settle to an idle like it should. then i started it with an intake vac. line disconnected and it felt like it was somewhat misfiring, but it cam right back to idle ?????


oh, i'm also burning oil now, since i put the head back on. and last night it was doin it real bad when i first started it, it was also running pretty rich....some of the smoke was fuel??? i set the AFPR at 47lbs at idle, injectors are +20's could it be too much fuel? maybe thats why it ran better when the vac. line was off?

[glhs#064]

anyone???

[glhs#064]

ok, i think i narrowed the idle problem down to an injector not fully seated. but i found out where all the burnin oil is coming from......number 3 cyl, valve seal or a cracked head. kinda sucks when i just had the head machined, valve seals, and 3 angle.