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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 09-04-2003, 02:28 PM   #1
Thumbs down READ PLEASE!! Car was stalling,missing,now won't start..I think it's electronics??  
Humpper
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Hey- My 89 Daytona shelby was stalling out on the road and somtimes just wouldn't start, so I replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs and the fuel filter and it ran okay for a few days then I drove it about 250 miles(on a long trip) and it kept missing on the highway. after I got to where I was going, the car wouldn't start again and the next morning the car was completely dead(no battery). The weird thing is, the car acted dead earlier and I switched the key off, then tried to start it and it started right up like there was no problem. The comp. gave a code 55 when I checked them before my trip so I don't know what's up with this.
Thanks for the read guys.
John
 
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Old 09-04-2003, 02:37 PM   #2
 
Humpper
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I also forgot that when I was dickin around with my car I broke an injector clip and I just read that could be the cause of the stalling out but the battery too? maybe I'm draining my battery with a short in the injector and can't keep fuel pressure?
Sorry I"m a bit new to the TD...thanks
 
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Old 09-04-2003, 02:43 PM   #3
 
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Code 55 is end of codes message.My 89 daytona done something similar i would be driving down the road and i would cut off for no reason what so ever i would pull to the side of the road wait 5min and it would start no problem.I replaced about every thing you did to with no fix then on a hunch i replaced the map sensor and lo and behold problem fixed. I don't know about the dead battery though
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Old 09-04-2003, 03:06 PM   #4
 
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Stalling, no starting and missing could all be caused by the HEP/distributor pickup. Located under the rotor inside the dist.

Make sure the battery terminals are clean and the wires make good contact with the battery clamps.
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Old 09-24-2003, 08:10 PM   #5
 
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I agree, check the Hall effect sensor--when they go out they sometimes function intermittently. A voltmeter at the positive terminal of the coil should show a spike during cranking, and if the three-wire plug to the distributor (with ignition switched on) shows a 12 volt supply (also a ground and a 6-volt signal voltage) --bingo! Also, look for a good connection to the distributor body with the second sensor since corrosion can form where it grounds. If the computer receives no signal from the hall effect sensor it will assume the engine is not turning and shut off the fuel pump!
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