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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 11-07-2009, 09:27 AM   #1
New motor blow back  
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hey guys, i have been 2 years getting my engine rebuilt ( 86 t1 2.2 turbo)
i have finally got it in and running pretty good, but i have to problems which i think is connected some how. 1 when the turbo starts to spool it will ( act )
over boost and engine will shut down. 2 im getting alot of oil blow back ( or whatever is the correct term) into the air box and throttle body.

can anyone help on what might be cause this? the engine runs fine
as long as you dont get hard on the gas thats when over boost acours.

thanks
brian
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:57 AM   #2
Re: New motor blow back  
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Overboost is usually related to a vacuum line issue.
Did it set a code 45?
Be sure you PCV system is functioning correctly before assuming the worse on the oil problem.
I assume the engine was broken in correctly before really trying to get on it and synthetic oil was not used for the breakin period.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:20 AM   #3
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its not giving any codes. 5/30 oil no syn. for breakn
pcv vavle seems to be ok, but will check again, havent done a compression test yet.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:23 AM   #4
Re: New motor blow back  
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as for breakin just starting leting run for about tank of gas,
normal drving about 50 miles, yesterday i tried a few times to get on the gas and thats what it would do. am i doing something wrong for breakin?

using old vacuum lines also, should i just replace em all?
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:46 AM   #5
Re: New motor blow back  
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If you pull the breater tube or oil cap off with the engine running and have blowby that usually indicates a ring problem.
Any signs of oil fouling on the plugs?
Different theroys on breaking in the engine, some say steady light throttle, some say an occasion medium to hard acceleration the way you are going to drive it.
I would avoid short drives where the engine does not get to reach normal operating temp.
It all comes down to getting the rings to seat properly.
Thats why no synthetic during breakin, to slippery, will not allow the rings to seat properly.
50 miles may not be enough for the rings to fully seat.
Unless you are having other issues right now I would wait until the oil issue is resolved then tackle the vacuum line replacement.
Yes they should be replaced, vacuum line issues are a common problem on these cars.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:54 AM   #6
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thank you for your help. i'll try and drive it some more tomorrow. then see about replacing lines next week
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:01 AM   #7
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Keep an eye on the plugs, they are your eyes into the engine.
When my car was 2 months old they had to put in a shortblock because of a broken ring in #1 cylinder(long story, dealers fault, not my driving) and I just drove normally for about 900 miles and replaced the conventional oil with synthetic and she now has 132,000 miles and a daily driver.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:23 AM   #8
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k i'll check the plugs tomorrow, when it was just sitting running we checked em and the were fine but havent checked them since driving
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:27 PM   #9
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I found that when my cam timing was off ( retarded) I would get a lot of oil out of my breather under high boost. I even have a crank case evac on the car and it still would have oil oozing out on the valve cover breather. I fixed the cam problem and the last 50 miles or so i have not had any oil coming out of the breather.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:56 PM   #10
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I am also for the vac leak theory. You did not try to put the stock hardlines back in, did you? 20 year old plastic gets really brittle, I have had them crumble on me at the slightest touch. yours are probably cracked somewhere.

Cam timing off causes all sorts of things to happen, but probably not oil in the intake system. Rings or valve seals are about the only things I can think of that would allow boost pressure into the oil system. Cam timing would not affect those issues.

Wait. Maybe cam timing could affect it in that I have had it be off a bit and had really high compression numbers, 180-210. Maybe that would push some of the boost past the rings, and then fixing it to be more normal like 110-130 would lower the compression enough for the rings to hold it. I bet that is why cam timing fixed it for boboli.
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Old 11-08-2009, 02:00 PM   #11
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Usually on break in for the first 500-1000 miles I dont use boost...
Gives the rings a chance to seat b4 pushing boost to it.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:24 PM   #12
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hey thanks guys, i have benn going over the car today and something i missed in my diagram, what is the orfice that the vacuum is suppose to run to before the turbo? check plugs they are normal except a few were gapped at 40.
went over and tightened everything up.

now im gonna drive it and see how it does.
i just need to know what to look for in the orffice issue? i dont have a clue
gonna get someone this week to check timing belt and make sure theres not a issue there.

thanks
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:52 PM   #13
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i checked compression, the engine only has 64 miles on it but
the 1 cycl. 50psi, 2 was at 100, same for 3 and 4 was at 70
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:36 PM   #14
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You only have 64 miles on a rebuilt motor and you are pushing boost to it?
Ofcourse your compression is gonna be low!
You havent seated the rings correctly
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:37 PM   #15
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yes but i just gased on throttle a little not hold it down, do i need to unhook the boost and drive it for awhile?

so i should unhook boost line and just drive for awhile?

as you can tell i dont know richard about building engines, im learning as i go
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