crank gear removal (making sure i'm not being dumb)

[cegan09]

The crank is currently sitting with a gear puller tensioned on it. I put a smaller hex cap screw in the hole to bottom out on the crank (cap head grabs the gear puller post and keeps it from walking around). And it's been tightened as far as my electric impact gun will go. Somehow the gear didn't break this time. It was hit with a hammer and nothing, so I let it sit overnight and will attack it again tonight.

and i'm not moronic enough to thread the normal crank gear bolt all the way in and try pushing on that. It was threaded in with a 1/4in gap between the top of the bolt and the gear so that the gear had room to move off the crank.

[cawcislo]

I used a harmonic balancer type puller on mine. I backed the stock nut off a few turns, then I used the puller (make sure you get 3 bolts threaded into the gear as deep as possible to ensure you get a good hold of the gear). Worked no problem for me. With a more stubborn gear I would try an inpact gun on the puller, use heat (torch) to warm up the gear and perhaps some taps with a hammer to get it to move.

[92TurboTona]

this honestly shouldn't be this hard to get off the crank, i would put it back where it goes and use emery cloth on the crank nub and lube it down with PB blaster and try again, if no go use O&A along with the puller

[cegan09]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92TurboTona this honestly shouldn't be this hard to get off the crank

that's what i've been cursing at myself as i struggle and fail.

and forget PB blaster, the stuff is useless. I've given the crank a good soaking in Kroil, which is like magic in a bottle.

[cegan09]

So i spent 40 minutes tonight hitting it with a torch until the gear puller arms (and part of the gear) were red hot, then hitting the gear puller with an impact gun. I think i got maybe 5 turns out of the gear puller before once again the gear itself broke. At this point i'm just going to cut the damn gear.....

[tryingbe]

Jaw puller isn't the correct tool to use, now you know why.

[cegan09]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tryingbe Jaw puller isn't the correct tool to use, now you know why.

to be honest i'm getting slightly irritated with responses like this. Explain why it's the wrong tool. Because from the diagram in the official Chrysler manual, it should be the perfect tool if you don't have access to a welder to make one similar to their official tool. In fact, this was working, the gear did move, even if it was just a tiny amount. It's just that the gear is stuck enough that the force required to move it is enough to crack the cast gear.

Everyone keeps saying "it's not what you think", but it is. You pull on the gear, and press in the center. That is what i've been doing. So if there really is some huge secret, just share it.

[tryingbe]

You're not the first one to use a jaw type puller and broke the sprocket. It is the wrong tool to use, the broken sprocket says it all. Load are not evenly spread on the sprocket, that is why it broke.

Quote:

So if there really is some huge secret, just share it.

I already have, but you were stuck doing what you wanted to do. Everyone with the correct type of puller have successfully pull the sprocket, as far as I know.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f7/...ml#post1479223
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ller-easy.html

[cegan09]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tryingbe You're not the first one to use a jaw type puller and broke the sprocket. It is the wrong tool to use, the broken sprocket says it all. Load are not evenly spread on the sprocket, that is why it broke. I already have, but you were stuck doing what you wanted to do. Everyone with the correct type of puller have successfully pull the sprocket, as far as I know.

I've already said i tried the "official way". 5 bolts through a pulley into the gear, center bolt with a nut under the pulley. Nut being held with a wrench and blasting the center bolt with an impact gun (i don't have a welder currently). In fact this was the first thing i tried following the many threads here showing variations on the same idea. I've used that and the store bought puller, and the store bought puller was more effective.

Quote:

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...ller-easy.html

I tried that version too. all i managed to do was bend the fan spacer to hell and strip the center when the nut started spinning.

[cawcislo]

Well you're getting there. I know how frustrating it can be. I would still go with a harmonic balancer puller myself and keep heating that sprocket with a torch and slowly but surely it will come off (it's already moving so that's good). This is the story of TD's - plenty of frustrations, but in the end worth it when it all comes together and works (until something else breaks and more frustrations) :-)

[The Pope]

I use a body hammer like the machine shop. Get a 1/4" thick plate and drill 3 holes, 2 for the pulley and the one in the middle for older and 3 holes for the 5 bolt pulley. Then the slide hammer in the middle and they come off with a few smacks

[cegan09]

So last night i revisited the slide hammer dent puller approach as well as the DIY puller from a pulley approach. Nothing. The gear hasn't moved. Even with it glowing red hot, and being hit with things, and soaking in penetrating fluid, nothing. I'm done. It's coming off with a 4" cut-off wheel. someone has kindly answered my request to buy a new one, and since this one is already broken i just don't care about it anymore. I will punish this gear for defying me.