I have wanted a turbo minivan for a long time, but have never found one. My neighbor had a New Yorker Turbo. He passed away and I bought it from the estate. I knew the car had been sitting for quite a while and at least needed a starter. I swapped the starter, it took 3 starters to get a good one. First starter was lifetime replacement from advance auto, rebuilt in china...failed within 10 starts. Second starter was lifetime from autozone. It also failed within 10 starts...but there is a reason...I exchanged the autozone starter and the new one had booklets zip tied to it as well as a new stud bolt in a bag. The first autozone starter did not have these. I am pretty sure the first one was returned and unfortunately for me put back into stock. I would not walk out of autozone with a lifetime starter unless it has the books etc attached.
Next I had to deal with no brakes...pedal went to the floor. No leaks anywhere and fluid levels did not drop. I replaced master cylinder and after bleeding everything the brakes are great.
Now that it starts and stops, I need to get it running well.
The cel was lit and I was getting code 13. The baro solenoid is bad. it will not allow vacuum to reach the
map sensor. The solenoid is not shorted or open, but it will not click or do anything when voltage is applied. I can order this solenoid and will.
I bypassed the baro and hooked vacuum straight to the
map sensor and the car will idle and run, but not well. Cel does not light with
map hooked to vac.
Testing vacuum at idle showed about 18...with the needle vibrating down to 17 or 16. Tested at line to baro solenoid.
Tested dual solenoid: The wastegate solenoid held vacuum at the wastegate port then dumped when voltage applied. Did not test if it gets voltage from plug yet. The other solenoid (
egr) Acted similarly to the baro, it held vac at the canister port, would build a little pressure at the vacuum source port and the pressure would bleed off in a few seconds. The
egr solenoid is not shorted or open, but it does nothing when voltage is applied. I plan to plug the vac source line until I can replace the
egr solenoid so there is not a vac leak. Does anyone have a source for a compatible solenoid, either dual or just for the
egr?
The car starts and can be driven, but it seems it can only go lower rpms. There is no tach, so I have no numbers. At
wot the car doesn't accelerate at all. I have to press very lightly to accelerate. As the rpms increase, the car starts to stutter until it shifts and rpms drop, then it gets a little power again. This is with the vac source bypassing the baro and hooked directly to the
map. Will the lack of baro readings and bad
egr solenoid cause the car to run this poorly? Someone said it might be in limp in mode. The car will shift gears, I thought limp in mode locked trans in 2nd?
I have a vacuum pump/gauge and I want to test as many thing for leaks etc as I can, but I don't know the process(es). If you can tell me where to hook the pump and what the test procedure is, that would be great.
The clock has started, I put a 30 day tag on the New Yorker yesterday. I need to get it running well asap so I can sell our Escort and transfer the plates.
Also, I hooked a test light to the baro while the car was idling and it never lit. Should it light when you turn the car to run but not keep going to start? The +voltage is present, I guess the
ecm is not closing ground. I am only getting error 13. If I unplug the baro I get error 37, but as long as it is plugged in there is no 37 error. I was wondering if it quits checking baro if it doesnt see a change etween vac and baro the first time it checks?
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