Headgasket time, what am I forgetting?

[CNSPRCY1]

To start I signed on when I got this car in the spring as CNSPRCY and introduced myself but had forgot my password.

Not new to forced induction but new to TD.

85 Town and Country convertible, Mark Cross, 2.2. 51k actual.

I have an old OTC4000 still from my early days with Turbo Regals and GMC Typhoon (before scanmaster/laptop) to monitor the car after repairs and mods.

I know better than to take an untuned, un gauged car to the track but.....it was such a nice day and after watching friends make passes I lost my will power.

4 runs with a best of 16.509 @ 81.75 with a 2.3 '60 on 600 treadwear whitewalls still sporting the wire hubcaps. Blistering for sure

Next time I start it lots o white smoke and it has made some oil.

I have new OEM plug wires, belts, hoses, timing belt, headgasket and head bolts (MP nla), downpipe seal and bolts. Going to use the red tacky gasket stuff.

I'm sure the coolant smoked the O2 sensor which needed to be replaced after 27 years anyway...suggestions on which is the best?

What am I forgetting?

Future (over the winter) plans are FWD stage 1, cat delete with exhaust dump, a huge trans cooler, and a 50 shot (wet).

Thanks in advance.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

valve cover end seals
cam seals might be nice too since it's apart and while the belt is off

[CNSPRCY1]

Sorry... you are right, and a tube of RTV. Got all of that as well.

OEM cam seals?.

O2 ideas?

Thanks!

[jamierpm]

you can get a Bosh oxygen sensor P#12919 around 30$ or a NTK P#23004 around 25$ which is the same company as NGK spark plugs, apparently the NTK is the OE manafacturer from the info on the site I use to order parts

[GLHNSLHT2]

depends on the power goals. Since the head is coming off I'd mod the block for 11mm ARP head studs and convert the car over to T2 intercooled blow through status. But that's just me.

[CNSPRCY1]

GLHNSLHT2 that was my intention when I bought the car. I spent the first couple of months browsing parts for sale and researching what was need to do the conversion. My first Grand National was a "hot air" car which has a terrible intake manifold compared to the later intercooled cars along with the obvious limitations of the hot inlet charge. I used alky and later meth injection which helped but never made the power the I/C guys did. After going I/C and having the OEM liquid to air I/C on the Typhoon I vowed to never have a non I/C forced induction car again, I even put an aftermarket water to air on my S/C 3800 Regal.

But....after realizing how rare my 85 is I can't bring myself to convert it. I didn't buy it for an investment and don't think it will be worth any big money but I also know that even though we always say we will keep the parts and can convert it back to stock it never happens. I just can't do that to such a rare car, maybe it's a product of getting old (I do have a woodie K car vert :-) ).

A good running stock car with a little more boost and a small shot of spray for the days I feel squirrely is my goal.

Thanks for your input!

[NAJ]

IMO inspect and/or replace all maintainance/wearable items while everything is apart...
Timing Belt, Drive Belts, Hoses, T-Stat, Water Pump, Ignition Items, Vacuum System Upgrade, Engine Mounts, etc.
You can get all of these parts at Rock Auto for less than you can locally plus there is a 5% discount code (see Rock Auto in the Vendors section).

I just purchased a Standard Motor Products O2 for my car($15.00) and 2 SMP O2's for my Son In Laws 98 F-150 for $33.00 shipped.
They have an SMP O2 for your car for $9.03 + shipping.

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SG7

[onerippinturbo2]

nothing wrong with upgrading the head bolt size to 11mm though or going to studs to further improve the clamp on the gasket. your gonna want a good seal and the capability to keep that seal if you are in deed planning on staying suck through (stock) intake setup and then putting a 50 shot on it to boot, just my 2 cents is all.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

considering what you want to do , I'd also be sure to get the head resurfaced so ya know it should seal and stay sealed

not enough to call it a cut , just enough to ensure it's flat and all the old gasket impression is gone from the head's surface

if doing the resurface add an intake/exhaust gasket to the list

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by CNSPRCY1 GLHNSLHT2 that was my intention when I bought the car. I spent the first couple of months browsing parts for sale and researching what was need to do the conversion. My first Grand National was a "hot air" car which has a terrible intake manifold compared to the later intercooled cars along with the obvious limitations of the hot inlet charge. I used alky and later meth injection which helped but never made the power the I/C guys did. After going I/C and having the OEM liquid to air I/C on the Typhoon I vowed to never have a non I/C forced induction car again, I even put an aftermarket water to air on my S/C 3800 Regal. But....after realizing how rare my 85 is I can't bring myself to convert it. I didn't buy it for an investment and don't think it will be worth any big money but I also know that even though we always say we will keep the parts and can convert it back to stock it never happens. I just can't do that to such a rare car, maybe it's a product of getting old (I do have a woodie K car vert :-) ). A good running stock car with a little more boost and a small shot of spray for the days I feel squirrely is my goal. Thanks for your input!

I can somewhat understand that. My opinion is that it'd be worth more if it had a good clean T2 conversion under the hood. You're not really lowering the value as you're not changing what makes the car unique. But it could always be done down the road if you change your mind.

People look at my new yorker as a little old grandma car. They don't know that under the hood lurks an 89 T2 bottom end with forged pistons, an 87 T2 top end, Super 60 turbo, ported exhaust manny, S60 IC, 89/90 Shelby Daytona kframe/arms/sway bar, and 86-88 solid rear axle. Even the big 3" ID magnaflow looks somewhat stock, the 3" pipe sticking out of it kinda gives it away though. They don't know that the 3" goes all the way to the turbo though:)