power loss light

[GLHS 160]

I have a few questions about my GLHS.. My power loss light is coming on, and the code it has is 15 (speed sensor) and 23 (air charge sensor).. I bought a new air charge sensor at a parts store. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes after the change. It still throws the light on and the same code 23 comes up.. Is this a dealer only replacement? I checked wires and all look good.. The car only has 17K original miles on it.. I have not done the speed sensor yet, so that code is still there also.. Any suggestions to a brand?
Thanks for the help.

Allen

[NAJ]

There is more to the ACT Sensor than the sensor itself.
The code sets because voltage is high(above 4.80 volts, open circuit)or low(below.10 volts, shorted circuit).
Backprobe the ACT Sensor connector with a digital voltmeter and with the engine running read the voltage.
Is the voltage high or low???

Be aware that when you backprobe the connector you may be correcting the issue if your problem is a cracked/broken/ loose fitting terminal in the connector housing.
A GM coolant temp sensor pigtail is the same as our Air Charge and Coolant Temp so if you suspect a connector issue purchase the GM pigtail and solder it onto your harness.

GM PIGTAIL
Duralast/Coolant Temperature Sensor (254) | 1989 Pontiac Trans Am 8 Cylinders F 5.0L FI | AutoZone.com

[NAJ]

[GLHS 160]

The new Air Charge Sensor I put in was from Napa parts store. It does not have the same look as the original at the probe end. The new one is brass, and the stock on is plastic. It does use the same connectors.. I did the voltage test on the wires and it passed fine. I was told by one person that only the Dodge sensor will work properly. Being "electrically" challenged, I am at a loss, and the power loss light keep kicking on, but the car runs fine..
Thanks for the help.
Allen.

[Sid]

Are you sure they gave you the Air Charge Sensor and not a Temperature Sensor? The Temp Sensor is brass and measures Liquid Temp while Air Charge Temperature is Plastic and measures Air Temp.

[GLHS 160]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid Are you sure they gave you the Air Charge Sensor and not a Temperature Sensor? The Temp Sensor is brass and measures Liquid Temp while Air Charge Temperature is Plastic and measures Air Temp.

I checked the number (echlin TS5020).. It comes up air charge sensor..

[NAJ]

If the light keeps coming on your voltage is high(above 4.80) or low(below .20), not somewhere in the middle.
Have you backprobed the connector and checked voltage and compared it to the chart?
Be aware that if you have a loose/broken/pushed out/spread terminal backprobing may tighten the connection and cover the problem while you are trying to diagnose it.
If all voltages check good you may need to remove the terminals from the connector and physically inspect them.

EXAMPLE...BACKPROBING A CONNECTOR TO CHECK OUTPUT VOLTAGE

[GLHS 160]

I did pull the air charge connector and with the motor I probed the wires and the voltage had a high of 4.72, but it jumped around.. It would go between 3 and 4 volts.. I then put a jumper in line and it showed 0 volts.. So according to the test, that says my wiring is fine.. I was told to install an oem sensor, some aftermarket sensors will not work.... Does anyone know this to be true?

On a good note, I put the car on a lift today to replace my distance speed sensor, and found it to be unplugged.. Reconnected the plug and that cleared code 15..

Thanks again for the help !!!

[NAJ]

And without the jumper inline you should be reading 4.9-5.0 volts.
Did you perform a wiggle test on the wiring when the voltage was jumping to see if you could make it change by moving the wiring?
Did you verify your issue was not with a broken/cracked terminal in the connector?

I cannot answer your question regarding aftermarket brass or OE plastic.
When mine gave me problems I was working for Jeep so I automatically ordered a Mopar unit.

Mopar Parts | Order OEM Mopar Parts for All Dodge, Chrysler and Jeep Cars or Trucks
Old Part Number 5226355
New Part Number 4713483
Part Name SENSOR - TEMPERATURE
MSRP $41.00
Core $0.00
Online Price $29.77

[GLHS 160]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ And without the jumper inline you should be reading 4.9-5.0 volts. Did you perform a wiggle test on the wiring when the voltage was jumping to see if you could make it change by moving the wiring? Did you verify your issue was not with a broken/cracked terminal in the connector?

I went this morning and ran the test again with the motor stone cold.. I wrapped the multi meter leads with a wire I could stick into the connector. Before I was just trying to hold them in place, which may be the reason the voltage was jumping around... I cranked the car up and the voltage went to 4.92 and stayed there.. After a couple minutes I did the jumper leads where you touch the two together and it read 0 volts.. The car only had 16K original miles on it and was original down to the tires.. Has 18K miles now.. It still has the Mopar plug wires and all the Mopar belts. It lived a very sheltered life in doors, and got only minor use, as it was a doctor with too many toys who owned it.. The paint still looks as shiny as day one (1986) as does the interior.

Anyway, I think I will buy the oem sensor and try that.. Thanks again for all your help, and I will keep you posted.

[GLHS 160]

I did get the new air charge sensor p.n. 4713483, and installed it in the intake manifold.. The power loss light kicked on again, showing code 23... I did pull the connector off again to check it with the multimeter, and the voltage showed 5.35.. with the jumper it went to zero.. Am I getting too much voltage? If so, what do I do to drop it below 5 volts?

I have been disconnecting the lead from the sensor with the car running to check the wires..

I also removed he stage 2 computer and reinstalled the original one to see if it made a difference.. Same results..
So I am back to the beginning again..Lost...

Thanks for any help...
Allen

[NAJ]

If you disconnect the connector with the car running the circuit goes open and will set the Code 23.
With the key on or engine running backprobe the connector and read sensor voltage.

EXAMPLE OF BACKPROBING TO READ SENSOR VOLTAGE

[GLHS 160]

Sorry, I did not tell the whole story.. I know it will set the power loss light when disconnecting the lead from the sensor. I did try to push a paper clip into the connector to do the back probe, but I could not get any continuity and was afraid of damaging the wires.. That is the reason I pulled the connector to get a voltage check.. After I got the 5.3 volts and then zero volts using the jumper, I shut the car off and plugged the sensor back up. I disconnected the battery ground lead for a few minutes, then re installed it.. I then turned the key on, off, on, off, on, to check the codes.. At that time I would only get code 12, (battery disconnected). I would then crank the car and go out for a drive.. It usually threw the power loss light on within a minute. I would pull over and check the code and it was 23 again.. I would continue driving and when the temp got to normal, If the light kicked on again, which it usually did, I would just let off the gas and switch the key off for a couple seconds and then back on.. The light reset and I sometimes could drive for quite a while before it kicked on again, or it may do it in just a minute..
Thanks again, I really appreciate the help !!!
Allen

[GLHS 160]

I unplugged the Air Charge sensor wire, pulled the computer out from the kick panel and unplugged it.. I did a continuity test on the two wires. Both checked good.. Plugged everything back together, and I then took some safety wire and probed the backside of the sensor plug.. With the car running it measured 2.92 volts.
Thanks again, Allen