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Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong with your Dodge and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

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Old 11-25-2012, 02:20 PM   #1
need info ASAP, torn boot  
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GhostDaytona is traveling down a dark road
have86 turbo z, with 2.5 conv to t2, has 520 trans in it, did tire rotation, found torn practically ripped up boot on right side. now this is the boot thats right up against the wheel bearing hub assembly, an goes into the intermediate shaft.

need info, are all the short axles on that side the same?
best brand to get, ill be buying off of rockauto?

now I have the 520 trans, make I difference????

Need this I go ASAP, as I have no idea how long I was driving on a busted boot, an don't know how long till it gives. I hope it will last till I can get a new axle.

all help appreciated, as this my daily driver, 20 miles to work an back, round trip.
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:47 PM   #2
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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You'll have to order one for any '87-later Daytona, as the '86 had the small spline axle 525 when it was original. The cars with intermediate shafts(equal length setup), and all the drivers side axles are the same, all short axles on either side are the same.

This is assuming that whoever did the 520 swap used the complete '87-later intermediate shaft, and didn't make a 'hybrid' one to keep the small shaft on the right side to save money at the time of the swap. Not many people do this, I just did however on my friends GLH-T so he didn't have to buy two new shafts when we put a 520 in his car.

If you're not getting any clicking noise while turning, the CV joint isn't too bad yet, and should last long enough for you to get a replacement.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:05 PM   #3
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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I'm waiting on my buddy who built this swap to get back to me, so he can tell me exactly what he used. But, what I've seen on the online parts houses, says the outer spline is 26, while the inside spline is 23 that goes into the half shaft.

can someone throw some part numbers at me, so I can compare an see what I can find online.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #4
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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Don't waste money on replacing the whole axle unless it starts making noise. Well thats my opinion anyways.

Lol, my car had a trashed boot for at least 6 years and it never had a problem. Just replaced the boot, no issues. Although the boot I bought seems to have been garbage.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #5
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no I don't go for just replacing a boot, to me with the way I am with this car now, I won't do half ass work. So I'm going to replace the axle on that side.
now since the boot is ripped into two pieces, there ya go, besides, if I'm gonna do it right, might as well do it right the first time.

replace that axle along with a new bearing assembly, an ill install my poly trans mount at the same time.

I need numbers, has that right half shaft assembly, 520 trans remember, are all the short right side axles the same on that side????
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:37 PM   #6
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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ok , we know there are early and late axles - one has a smaller spline where they go into the diff (early) vs the other (late)

now , when the cars were built they would have used identical axles on the right and left sides + the intermediate shaft

K , now to add there are two different intermediate shafts one early , one late
same differences apply regarding the splines

there are also two different hanger bearings - early vs late

the early one will have a cast iron bracket bolted to the block - the bolts that attach the bearing to the bracket point up

the late bearing / bracket uses a steel plate that the bearing bolts to
the bolts on this one go sideways (point across the car)

to make a hybrid intermediate shaft you would have 1 half of each early & late conected by the U joint

things you need to know about serviceing the intermediate shaft
most of the time the c/v joint spline will be frozen into the intermediate shaft spline

if you don't need to replace the inner c/v joint , don't even try to seperate them
- you'll most likely cause more trouble than good

the only one I managed to BASH apart striped the splines within a week

also , getting the bearing off the intermediate shaft is a huge pain in the tush - AND , most likely you will never find a replacement bearing unless you get lucky - most of us ain't that lucky

so , what you really need to do is just replace the outer c/v boot
if ya wanna get anal about it get the outer c/v kit and install that only onto your existing axle

your gonna need a nice strong steel bar to seperate the ball joint - DON'T use a pickle fork
- you WILL F up the ball joint boot if you try useing the fork

jack the car up / put on stands or blocks
remove the pinch bolt at the bottom of the knuckle
insert the bar through the center of the A of the lower control arm and pry down with the tip of the bar uinder the frame rail

on an 86 you should be able to do it without droping the ends of the sway bar (both) if you have a long enough bar (4-5 foot long) and if the bar is long enough

a weight lifting bar likely will not be stiff enough

if you can't get a long / stiff enough bar then unbolt the ends of the swaybar on both sides of the car - it should then take almost no effort to pry down the control arm

your also gonna need someone to stand on the brakes when you crack the big nut in the middle of the rotor loose
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:04 PM   #7
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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He live in the Southwest though, I wonder if his will be rusted like ours are here up North.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:17 PM   #8
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Yeah, I was gonna say that he may not have any problem removing the cv shaft from the intermediate shaft, I never do here in New Mexico.

GhostDaytona- Once your friend verifies he used the matching intermediate shaft with the 520 trans, then just order a short shaft for a '87 Daytona, with equal length shaft setup. Or, just order one for the drivers side, as there is only one option for that side, and you don't have to figure out which one is correct.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:22 PM   #9
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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mmm , a lot of "good" southern cars are no better than stuff was up here 20 years ago

considering the front wheel wells and rockers were rotting through when the cars were only 3-5 years old up here it's a crap shoot at best

i've seen southern darts n dusters that are worse now than what I had in 84-88

everything rots - location sometimes determines how fast - sometimes

I almost bought a 69 charger a buddy's aunt brought to toronto from jamaca
but then I saw it - the car was prestine when it got here but in about 3 years it was as bad or worse than any that had been here from day one
rust not only spreads like cancer - it also will play catch up

once ghost d has that ball joint apart he'll know as soon as he tugs on the axle what kind of job he's in for
if it slips right out great - just swap the new axle in and save the frustration of putting a c/v joint together
if not then save the frustration of Fing up the other stuff I mentioned above and just install either a new boot or the whole outer c/v kit
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:25 PM   #10
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbaron View Post
Yeah, I was gonna say that he may not have any problem removing the cv shaft from the intermediate shaft, I never do here in New Mexico.

GhostDaytona- Once your friend verifies he used the matching intermediate shaft with the 520 trans, then just order a short shaft for a '87 Daytona, with equal length shaft setup. Or, just order one for the drivers side, as there is only one option for that side, and you don't have to figure out which one is correct.
order one for daytona turbo - and expect the parts guy to ask what kind of c/v joint - cryco used severial mfg's / sources

takeing the old one to the parts store will help determine the c/v joint type
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:27 PM   #11
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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I went to Rock Auto and searched cv shaft under '87 Daytona with the 2.2 turbo, and these are the part numbers that showed up.

APWI= CH8007
Cardone Select= 663025 (new)
EMPI= 801967
Surtrack= CH8048
A-1 Cardone= 603002 (reman)

They all showed these to fit left or right, so they're the short axles.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
order one for daytona turbo - and expect the parts guy to ask what kind of c/v joint - cryco used severial mfg's / sources

takeing the old one to the parts store will help determine the c/v joint type
I have ran into that, and usually just pick which ever one is in stock, cheaper, or can get to me soonest. If replacing the whole shaft, I don't think it really matters. They're all gonna fit in the trans and hub. Now if you are gonna pull it apart at the inner joint, then yes, you want the same style.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
mmm , a lot of "good" southern cars are no better than stuff was up here 20 years ago

considering the front wheel wells and rockers were rotting through when the cars were only 3-5 years old up here it's a crap shoot at best

i've seen southern darts n dusters that are worse now than what I had in 84-88

everything rots - location sometimes determines how fast - sometimes

I almost bought a 69 charger a buddy's aunt brought to toronto from jamaca
but then I saw it - the car was prestine when it got here but in about 3 years it was as bad or worse than any that had been here from day one
rust not only spreads like cancer - it also will play catch up

once ghost d has that ball joint apart he'll know as soon as he tugs on the axle what kind of job he's in for
if it slips right out great - just swap the new axle in and save the frustration of putting a c/v joint together
if not then save the frustration of Fing up the other stuff I mentioned above and just install either a new boot or the whole outer c/v kit
That's not so much the case in the desert though. Cars do not rust out there at all hardly, compared to the rates they do here. I've seen cars there that are unpainted, bare metal and they simply do not rust much at all.

And there's a reason that 69 charger rusted so quickly when brought up here and that is because of how they did rust proofing back then. From what I've seen a lot of Southern cars had little to no rust proofing. I seen the same years back when my pop used an Arizona born parts car that was brought up North. Had rust worse than any old Northern car.

Anyways I'm off topic. Sorry OP.

I've used the efiche parts catalog when I did my drivers side axle last year and I think those numbers are in there.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...-pdf-82-a.html
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:39 PM   #14
Re: need info ASAP, torn boot  
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1 no rust, so I'm good there.
2 thanks for the part numbers, I think I was looking in the wrong area on rock auto.

as for taking it off, I had it out twice myself back in 2002 when I replaced two clutches, and its been off in 2004 when my buddy did the swap, so I know it should come out fairly easy.

Thanks for the info guys, ill be buying parts this Friday, might as well replace the axle an both wheel bearing assemblies.

Wish me luck.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:12 PM   #15
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ok, update my buddy texted me back, said he used the stock 86 axles, so I'm good to go. Thanks for the help, all who responded.
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