HELP! Engine cuts out after fillup - NAJ!!!

[[X]treme R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ I just recently saw O2 readings like that but it was on a Ford F-150 and caused by a contaminated wire on the MAF causing the controller to think the vehicle was at 8000' above sea level so it was LEAN. O2's only had to go to 0.00 one time and the CEL was immediately turned on and fault codes P0171 and P0174 were set. Hard to believe your O2's went to 0.00 and did not set any fault codes...??? On your vehicle I am still leaning towards a fuel delivery issue. Get that fuel pressure checked and do not forget to deadhead the pump to see max output. You can look at Map output thru the entire voltage range using a handheld vacuum pump and your scanner or DVOM. Your Baro readings are correct so no issues there. What are short and long term fuel correction reading?

my o2's went to zero cuz the motor shut off cuz it leaned it to the point where there was no fuel to burn / died.

ill be checking fuel pressure today and post what its at tonight

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well i was gonna test the fuel pressure, but i couldnt cuz there is no shrader valve / hookup that i could finder. there was a stupid bell thing but i couldnt get off. tried my disconnect tools but they were all to tall to get under the bell between it and the rail....

here is a pic of what im talking about... before i go ripping it off, i need to find out if i can even use that to test the fuel pressure cuz even if i can get it off, it seems far to big for my tested to thread on to....... so stupid they wouldnt just put a cap on it like normal, or a shrader valve in general..

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scratch all that, i guess i need a specialty adaptor to connect between my fuel line and the rail that has a tee in it to hook up a fuel pressure tester..

wtf would they do that for....


its gonna cost me about as much to ****ing get the damn adaptors and disconnect tools to check the fuel pressure as it would just buying a new pump

[NAJ]

Not all vehicles have service valves, why???
Our 3.0L engine does not have a service valve.

Mitchell is no help...
"connect fuel pressure gauge at engine"

You need to see the FSM or...

Autozone has a Master Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit in their loan a tools, maybe what you need is in there.
Leave a deposit for the tool and get it back when you return it, $150.00 for the kit, I believe.

[[X]treme R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Not all vehicles have service valves, why??? Our 3.0L engine does not have a service valve. Mitchell is no help... "connect fuel pressure gauge at engine" You need to see the FSM or... Autozone has a Master Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit in their loan a tools, maybe what you need is in there. Leave a deposit for the tool and get it back when you return it, $150.00 for the kit, I believe.

yeah imma have to check what we got at advance auto, pretty sure we dont have fuel pressure test master kit (we got everything else though lolz) im the commercial parts pro at the one i work at so if we dont got one, ill order one, if possible

the factory service manual doest say much of anything, hell even the service guy i called at the dodge dealership had to dig for 10 minutes to see if it had one on it <_<

[NAJ]

Fuel inlet to rail, is it a clamped rubber hose or quick disconnect?

Which one of these is yours??? Plastic or Metal Fuel Rail???
https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/D...x?id=104&gid=3

https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/D...x?id=127&gid=3

[[X]treme R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Fuel inlet to rail, is it a clamped rubber hose or quick disconnect? Which one of these is yours??? Plastic or Metal Fuel Rail??? https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/D...x?id=104&gid=3 https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/D...x?id=127&gid=3

a local shop lent me an adaptor, its onmy car yet, but its a clip on style pressure guage that it takes, i only got my snap on shrader valve guage.

he had his guage on a differat car so he just let me keep the adaptor on mine till he gets his guage back today. before work hes gonna help me check the pressure.


also, i got the metal rail one, and it quick disconnect. but the thing is, those adaptors dont match my car / my body style isnt listed in the ones they say they fit for 2006.

i already dug a bit more into that ><

no worries, i should have my pressure reading tonight.

local shop isnt charging me anything for using their adaptor / guage.. but im still giving the owner 20$.

[[X]treme R/T]

did the pressure test. we got like 7 inches of snow so testing it with a load on the motor was impossible.. but i wide open throttle reved it a bunch of times.

pressure at idle was at around 61 psi.. the needle was bouncing around between 60 and 62.

as for reving. idk if i actually got the motor to cutout or hit the rev limiter but when it would cutout a bit it would drop to 40 psi really fast the right back to 61 instantly. did it consecutively for 5-6 rev's.

as i said, idk if it was rev limiter hitting or actually cutting out.

[NAJ]

Without being there i cannot offer an opinion on what the car was doing.

You never posted long and short term fuel trim numbers.

[[X]treme R/T]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Without being there i cannot offer an opinion on what the car was doing. You never posted long and short term fuel trim numbers.

i tried doing diagnostic of the fuel system and my scanner said my car doesnt support that

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ive come to the conclusion that its a weak pump.

under all circumstances the 5.7 hemi motor should maintain a rail pressure from 53-63 psi.

with it dropping to 40psi when reving hard is way out of spec and is probably why im getting stall issues at WoT.

so new pump time :P

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got new pump in, only took like 13-14 minutes to do.

its still cutting out but not every time. the more i drive the less it seems to do it
before pump i was able to replicate the cutout issue everytime i hammered on it. and so far, it does it maybe 1 outta 3 times.

so the fact that its still doing it in general means either:

A-something still messed up

or

B- the pcm / ecu have to unlearn a bad habbit which will take a few drive cycles..

im hoping its B lol

[[X]treme R/T]

important update!
k so, i made it hesitate a few more times.

i moved my steering wheel a bit earlier to clean the interior / dash of the car / etc.

and when i went to go drive and it hesitates, i noticed another light come on besides the check engine light.. i didnt notice it before cuz of where i had the steering wheel set.

it was a red lightning bolt light on the right side of the dash / check engine lights on the left side.. Evidently this means there is a fault in the ETC / electronic throttle control.. which would explain the surge i felt earlier and the sudden gasp of air my motor seems to take immediately before it cuts out..

any thoughts on this?

im assuming its a bad /loose connector for the pedal sensor or throttle body.

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just ran a 3/4 of a bottle of throttle body cleaner through the car. it made the problem go away temporarily / for about 5 or so wide open throttle runs, then it started acting up again

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i reset the pcm/fcm/ecu, and beat the piss outta the car and ran my scanner / tricked it into reading codes on the fly and got 2 codes out of it.. but they were listed as "Stored Codes"

B121c - Torque Request Signal Denied
U0401 - Implausible data recieved from ECM/PCM