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Old 02-01-2013, 03:14 AM   #1
Pulling the Engine  
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I need to pull the engine out of my '85 Shelby Charger to replace all of the engine gaskets. Is it easier to pull the engine and transaxle out together? What is the best way to go about pulling the engine?
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:38 AM   #2
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if all you're doing is replacing gaskets there is no need to pull the engine. every gasket and seal can be replaced with the engine still in the car. the only one that will be a pain is if you are replacing the rear main seal as the trans will need to be pulled to gain access to the seal. but if the rear main isnt leaking dont mess with it.
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Old 02-01-2013, 05:59 AM   #3
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The engine doesn't need to come out???? I have to replace all of the seals, especially the rear main. So the transmission is all that needs to come out? That would make everything so much easier!
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:14 AM   #4
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If I were replacing all the seals and gaskets I would pull the whole motor. Just from a cleanliness point of view. YMMV.
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:14 PM   #5
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Getting that transmission out without removing the engine is a pain. Trust me, I was dumb enough to try that...
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:21 PM   #6
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Getting that transmission out without removing the engine is a pain. Trust me, I was dumb enough to try that...
Hmmm I can drop an auto in about 2 hours with hand tools, floor jack, n handyman jack. Never tried a stick tho. Don't see it being any harder.
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Old 02-01-2013, 05:01 PM   #7
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ILIKESHELBYS is keeping our cars runningILIKESHELBYS is keeping our cars running
The easiest way to drop the tranny on the L-body may be to loosen and remove the front cross member bolts and only loosen the rears enough so that the member come down in the front several inches. This makes the job of re-installing the tranny a lot easier. Otherwise, the member gets in the way during re-installation making it a real bear if you don't have enough jacks and a truck load of patience. The diff portion of the tranny will be hitting the member at the bobble strut/dog bone mount. If you let the member down too far, you will also have to re-insert the steering shaft in the steering rack knuckle. Its not so hard if you inch the member up a little at a time, check the joint, try to position it, raise it a bit more, check position, adjust if needed, raise some more till it has slid about 1/2" into place, then you are home free. It helps to have a helper when doing this job. I have (HAD) to R&R these trannys a number of times and I never use anything more than common hand tools, a piece of plywood about 24" square and a floor jack. I place the wood between the tranny and the jack, so that the bell housing and the diff are on the wood. Once the tranny is unbolted (auto) or slid to the drivers side and off the input shaft, it is an easy matter to just lower the tranny a few inches at a time while moving it towards the front of the car...that is to clear the subframe/crossmember. The mot important part of the operation is to have the bellhousing and the diff resting on the wood and have the center of the jack in just the rights spot so it is for all practical purposes balancing on the wood all by itself. Especially important when re-installing.

GO SLOW, BE CAREFUL. ITS NOT FOR THE WEAK AT HEART OR THE CARELESS...EVEN THEN.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:52 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ILIKESHELBYS View Post
The easiest way to drop the tranny on the L-body may be to loosen and remove the front cross member bolts and only loosen the rears enough so that the member come down in the front several inches. This makes the job of re-installing the tranny a lot easier. Otherwise, the member gets in the way during re-installation making it a real bear if you don't have enough jacks and a truck load of patience. The diff portion of the tranny will be hitting the member at the bobble strut/dog bone mount. If you let the member down too far, you will also have to re-insert the steering shaft in the steering rack knuckle. Its not so hard if you inch the member up a little at a time, check the joint, try to position it, raise it a bit more, check position, adjust if needed, raise some more till it has slid about 1/2" into place, then you are home free. It helps to have a helper when doing this job. I have (HAD) to R&R these trannys a number of times and I never use anything more than common hand tools, a piece of plywood about 24" square and a floor jack. I place the wood between the tranny and the jack, so that the bell housing and the diff are on the wood. Once the tranny is unbolted (auto) or slid to the drivers side and off the input shaft, it is an easy matter to just lower the tranny a few inches at a time while moving it towards the front of the car...that is to clear the subframe/crossmember. The mot important part of the operation is to have the bellhousing and the diff resting on the wood and have the center of the jack in just the rights spot so it is for al practical purposes balancing on the wood all by itself. Especially important when re-installing.

GO SLOW, BE CAREFUL. ITS NOT FOR THE WEAK AT HEART OR THE CARELESS...EVEN THEN.
What he said. It's not that it's auto vs stick. It's the fact that L-bodies are so small.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:15 PM   #9
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So, before we dug into removing the engine we found that the cam seal had popped out and the valve cover had no gasket. That's where the leak was coming from. We put the cam seal back in and we replaced the valve cover gasket. With that fixed, the leak migrated down to the head gasket. This car has tremendous oil pressure.
So my question now is, to replace the head gasket, should I pull the motor, or should I leave it in? What is the easiest way to replace the head gasket? And since this motor was not maintained by it's previous owner, should I just replace all of the gaskets anyway? This is a Shelby Turbo 2.2L '85
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:54 PM   #10
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ILIKESHELBYS is keeping our cars runningILIKESHELBYS is keeping our cars running
The head and turbo can come off as a unit typically that is the easiest way to do the head gasket. I would suggest using a Mopar Performance head gasket (006 I believe is the end of the part #) and you might as well replace the head bolts (they stretch when used) w/MP replacements or upgrade to the ARP head bolts OR studs. Be aware that early engines are 10mm bolts and later are 11mm. You can easily tap a 10mm hole to be an 11mm hole. I've done it more than once, many others have. While the head is off, might as well check it for flatness, you can do this with a good quality straight edge and a feeler gauge assortment. If the head is not quite flat it will need to be shaved and you should tell the machinist it is for a turbo application and that you want the absolute minimum removed to get it in spec again. Note that some of the manifold bolts go directly into the water jacket so those bolts should have sealer applied before installation. Once the head is back on and bolted in place, then the next most critical point will be to be positive you get the cam timing straight the FIRST time. Get it right and startup will be easy, get it wrong and you can spend a lot of time trying to fix stuff that is not broken in your efforts to get it to idle or to make good power.

Of course, when you pull the head, all the oil and coolant will get contaminated and must be replaced.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:23 PM   #11
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Also please get an engine hoist when removing I had bought mine for $100 and it was worth the buy because I saves a lot of time and in the end it's the safest way to do it I removed my engine with a 2 ton jack before I had a hoist and ended up like una's YouTube video but I had my toe under the car while removing luckly I had steel toes on. They were dented but saved my foot
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:14 AM   #12
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That is exactly what I needed to know! Thank you so much!
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCTurbo View Post
Getting that transmission out without removing the engine is a pain. Trust me, I was dumb enough to try that...
I did a tranny swap in my L-body in an afternoon. Went from a 4 speed to a 5 speed. Drove it around the block that evening. Key is to remove the driver side tranny mount, and pull the bolt from the front mount & bobble strut so it can pivot on the passenger mount.

Also, it's easiest to drop it all out the bottom. I wouldn't even attempt to pull the engine out the top.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:15 PM   #14
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How do you get the car high enough to clear the engine and support the engine at the same time?
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #15
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It doesn't need to be really high.


Last edited by tryingbe; 03-08-2013 at 03:30 PM..
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