I'm of the mind that if the block is going to be comming apart, one should have the works done on it. My block is getting ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, the rods have been shotpeened, ground and polished, a new oil pump and pickup and forged pistons. The mains are getting line honed, the deck shaved for flatness, and the boring and honing for the pistons will be done with a torque plate. I easily have over $1000 into the motor in parts and labor, but I consider it to be worth it. While no means indestructable, the shortblock is certainly more durable, which is good considering I'm shooting for over 300 HP on a motor that originally only made 150.
At the very least, check all the clearances in the motor when you tear it down and make sure they are within spec. If you don't have and can't afford the tools to do this, find a good machine shop in your area and have them do it. If you take the block to a machine shop, have them clean it too. It may come up when they check it that more work is needed to get things back in spec. While the work may be kind of expensive, it will cost you less in the long run to have it done. A well built motor is less likely to explode when you turn up the boost than one that had corners cut during the build.
As for stockish upgrades that can be done without expensive upgrades to the shortblock, I recommend the following:
*Swap the Mitsubishi turbo that came stock with your motor out for a Garret turbo that came stock on an 84-87 T-I and 87-89 T-II motors. It is a slightly bigger (but not too much) turbo that will let you run more boost, and make more power from the same boost numbers as a mitsu turbo.
*Swap out your radiator for a T-II stock intercooler/radiator combination. You can run more boost with less chance of motor-killing detonation, and will let you make more power for a given level of boost because the boost will be cooled.
*Upgrade your exhaust piping to 3" diameter from the turbocharger to the end. This will let the turbo spool up faster and the motor make more power because of the reduced exhaust restriction. You may also pick up a couple MPG from this if you keep your foot out of the throttle.
*A mild port and polish on both the cylinder head itself and the stock exhuast manifold can work wonders. The cylinder head on the SOHC 2.2 and 2.5 (both turbo and N/A) was designed in the late 70s/early 80s, and the stock flow numbers reflect this. Even a minor cleanup of the casting (without really changing the ports themselves) is likely to improve flow. Be careful, a poorly done port/polish job on the head can make things worse. If you are willing to spend the money, there are people on the boards here who do a very nice job and can port the head for you. A well ported head will pay for itself down the road as well, because then that is one less thing you will have to upgrade when you start craving more power.
Read up at
The Dodge Garage. There is lots of good information at that site that anyone serious about modifying the Chysler 2.2/2.5 turbo family of motors should know.
TurboDodge.com 
