non turbo to turbo

[djaspurh]

I have a 92 Daytona w/ 2.5 non turbo (A525 trans) that I want to convert to turbo. The engine I have is out of a 89 Shelby, it's a 2.2 turbo II. I have the wireing harness, turbo, and computer. Is this possible to convert and how difficult would it be or do I need to do anything special to make it happen? I would like to upgrade the turbo and IC.

[Koreth]

If the transmission in your car is the stock transmission, than it is not an A525. The A525 was only used L bodies for all years, and in other bodies up until 86. Stock 5 speed for non-intercooled turbos and N/A 4 cylinder motors in 92 was an A523, which is about as strong as the A520, minus the A520/A555's weak bearing plate.

At the very least you would need to swap out the wiring harness and computer for a turbo motor. So it is good that you have those items. I don't know how difficult it is to swap/modify 92 to electronics, since I haven't messed with them.

I am confused about what you want to do though. You said you have an 89 T-II motor. How much of the motor do you have? A complete long block, including manifolds? Less than that? Are you wanting to swap in the 89 T-II motor into your car, or are you looking at putting the turbo setup on the 2.5 motor you currently have in your car?

If you are going for the latter, let me advise you not to. The N/A motors run higher compression pistons than the turbo motors do. Plus all OEM pistons (except for the rare DOHC turbo motor) are cast. Cast pistons do not tolerate detonation very well at all. You can turbo a motor that is using these pistons, but it is dangerous. You will HAVE to use premium fuel, and probably run lower boost to avoid destroying the pistons from detonation, and even then, if your tune isn't spot on, you may destroy them anyway. This isn't to say it cannot be done, or hasn't been done. It just isn't a good idea.

If you want to swap out the N/A motor for the T-II motor, then you will still need to swap in the turbo electronics that you have. You will also need to swap out your fuel pump, as turbo motors got one that flowed more than N/A ones did.The motor will bolt up to your transmission without any trouble, but I believe that the turbo motors got stronger clutches than the N/A ones did.

If you want to upgrade the turbo and IC when you chang over to turbo, then it would be a good idea to decide on how much power you want to make. Try to figure out in detail just what you want it is you want to do, from goint a bit faster than stock to building a race car to challenge others at the racetrack. Spend some time reading up on the forums (the "Search" button is your friend here), talk to the various venders that support our hobby, such as Turbos Unleashed and FWD Performance(they will be able to answer lots of questions), read The Dodge Garage and the various sites linked from there. When you've read up on the subject and know exactly what your goals are, it will be easier to pick the correct turbo, intercooler and any other upgrades that may be necessary.

Just how far are you looking to go with your setup?

[djaspurh]

Thanks for all the great info. I'm swapping the whole engine. I bought the 89 2.2 turbo II from a guy for $150. I got the complete engine longblock (including manifolds and TB, fuel rail), turbo, clutch, clutch plate, starter, wire harness, computer, fuel pump, new starter, and a few books. I had bought the car off another guy a new for $300 last summer for my younger bro, but gave him my old truck instead when I bought my new one. As for the daytona, I'm looking to build a pretty fast car for the track and for a sleeper for the road. I'm into V8s and carbs so computers and turbos are new too me, but I do know the power that can come from the mighty 2.2 turbo. I've stripped the engine down and had it cleaned, bored, decked, crank turned, and all that jazz. I'm ganna starting building it up and wanted to make sure i'm doing it properly. I'm leaning towards the S60 conversion. I don't think I will have much of a problem except for the wiring and the head because i'm looking to put in the oversize valves. I would love to get 300 hp / 300 trq but I don't want to toss loads of cash into it. I do need a new turbo for sure and have no idea which size to get. From what I heard around .60 or .63 turbine and .48 or .50 compressor side. Let me know what you think the size i should get. I also know you don't want a high compressing ratio, my block was bored 20 over and decked 10 over so I'm already getting an increase in c/r. I'm ganna be using cast pistons, unless i can find forged ones at a reasonable price. As for the tranny I will have to check and make sure which one I have. I should have bought the A555 off the guy I got the engine from. He was hurting for cash and was ganna sell me the new a555 he had for $200. O well, that was before I knew how well those trannys are built. If anyone else has some info for me I'm all ears!

[Koreth]

You would do well to save up for some forged pistons. They do cost more, but can be the difference between a motor that survives a tank of bad gas, and one that is headed back to the machine shop, again. While the cast pistons in our cars are a good, durable piston, that can survive a little detonation here and there at stock levels, at higher levels, it may be too late before you can get your foot out of the throttle or pull back the boost. I'm not saying detonation won't kill forged pistons (there have been some awesome pictures of pistons that aren't pistons anymore on this board) but they are much more live long enough to give you a chance to correct your tune before you loose a headgasket or something much more expensive.

You will find numerous threads on this board discussing which is better, the 2.5 or the 2.2. I'll tender my opinion, and it is just that, and not backed by any experience, just what I have read on this board. Please regard it as such. Since you have a 2.5 motor, if you do choose to pick up a set of forged pistons, consider possibly picking up a set of pistons for a 2.5 and using the 2.5 crank in your block. It will fit, as all 4 cylinder motors used the same casting from 89 to either 93 or 94 when the entire family was discontinued. Yes, the crankshaft in the N/A 2.5 IS a cast crank, all OEM 2.5 cranks are, but others have used the cast crankshaft with success, including Gary Donvan and is 440+ hp Reliant. My reasons for recommending the 2.5 are thus: One, you will have an easier time spooling the turbo with the extra displacement (even if its only an extra 18 cui). Two, the Daytona is one of the heaviest turbo dodges especially in the later years. The extra torque of a 2.5 will come to your advantage, both at the track and on the street. The cost of this low-end torque does come at the price of a motor that doesn't like to turn in the uper rpms as much and will take a bit more effort to match a 2.2 for power on the top-end. The 2.5 is a stroker, and strokers are for torque, not revving.

With regard to the turbo, our options are somewhat limmited, compared to other vehicles, at least as far as bolt-on parts go. Chrysler used their own version of the T3 turbine flange, exept on the DOHC motor. Thus, the only two turbine housings that will bolt to our motors without modifying the manifold are .48, and .63 A/R. The .48 will spool quicker and make for a more responsive car on the street, but at higher power levels will start to choke the exhuast side of the motor, and make it harder to make big power. The .63 A/R housing is more freely flowing, making it easier for the motor to make big power, but will make for a laggier turbo. How much laggier I cannot say, but certainly not so much that a good build and a good tune couldn't do something about. Note that a Super 60 turbo normally comes with a .63 A/R turbine housing. The guys on this forum, especially our vendors can tell you alot more about turbos than I can.