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Engine - General, Exhaust & Induction Topics about the general engine items, exhaust system discussed here & Improving the intake tract - air filter to intake valve.

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Old 05-19-2006, 08:51 PM   #1
Car runs hot, but only going uphill...  
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TurboBaron is keeping the peace
This drives me insane. I live in a valley, I need a car that can keep cool in the hills.

'87 Lebaron, '88 T1 engine w/ intercooler. Mitsu Turbo

Recent rad Recore with High-Density core, new water pump, new hoses, brand new (as in today) 180* T-stat with 1/8 hole drilled in it.

Around town?? I'm either 1, 2 or 3 bars (digital dash) over halfway on the temp meter. Today I put the rubber air dam back on the chin of the car and it helped very little.

Out on the flats, temp stays solid at either 1 or 2 bars over half. In the hills?? It runs at the ragged edge of the normal range and has gotten as high as one bar out of normal so that my wonderful talking car tells me to check coolant levels.

Timing is set at 8* BTDC (I'm running regular fuel) and I've got the wastegate connected directly to vacuum for minimal boost.


This royally chaps my ass as I've had 30 and 35 year old cars that don't pull this kinda crap on me.

Any ideas?? I'm going to completely remove the t-stat next and see what it does.
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Old 05-19-2006, 09:07 PM   #2
 
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tryingbe is keeping our cars running
Install a manual fan switch.
Removing the thermostat will not help you at all. It'll make matter worst if anything.
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Old 05-19-2006, 09:18 PM   #3
 
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Endo is keeping the peace
sounds pretty normal to me, any time you run an engine @ high load for a long distance its gonna heat up, especially with a water cooled turbo thats been boosting for several minutes. you arent running the AC while your going up the hill are you? thats a quick ticket to overheating. a couple of things you didnt mention are the radiator cap and the headgasket. either one will cause overheating, but from your discription i think chances are slim its the headgasket. you could try running a bottle of water wetter, and definately hook up a manual fan switch, our cars dont turn the fan on until 210* or something close to that. i'm pretty sure as long as its not spitting steam and you let it cool down before you shut it off, you should be fine.
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Old 05-19-2006, 09:39 PM   #4
 
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TurboBaron is keeping the peace
Head Gasket is new, Rad cap is a 16 lb No A/C running going uphill, and as I said.... boost is practically turned off. I know it should heat up, but get to the high side of normal into the "Hot" range???

I'm sorry. I had higher hopes for Turbo Dodges. I used to run my AMC Hornet up the same hill at 155 km/h and the car wouldn't break a 185 sweat!! And that was with a 195 t-stat!!


I'm pretty handy at electronics. Anybody got a handy-dandy manual fan switch diagram I can steal?
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:03 PM   #5
 
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puppet is keeping our cars running
What else have you noticed besides the gauge position?
ie ... smells, noises in the head, fluid level dropping (should actually be raised in the overflow bottle when the gauge is reading hot like you say)
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:07 PM   #6
 
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No smells, fluid level in the overflow doesn't seem to change. With no t-stat, it runs at the halfway point.... if I go up a hill hot dogging it, I get 2-3 more bars, but if I lay off it cools back down to half.

With the fan on full time, It stays at only 3 bars in the normal range, comes up to half if I hotdog it.

At this point, I'm thinking it's an airflow issues. Since my A/C system is dead anyway, I'm gonna pull out the condensor and see if that helps out the situation.
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:19 PM   #7
 
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sounds like my csx when it had its cracked head . ran fine didnt use coolant, just would get a whiff of the smell occasionally
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:26 PM   #8
 
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Man, if after all i've done to this car.... if it's got a cracked head, I'm gonna set it on fire. That is the LAST thing I need.


Just a quick thought, when did they switch to reverse flow water pumps? My car is an '87 with an '88 motor and I have an '87 style pump on it.

I do still have to try bleeding it but I can't get the damn plug out.
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Old 05-20-2006, 12:40 AM   #9
 
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NICK A. is keeping the peace
Ok 2 things here, first off, set the timing to the stock 12 degrees. This will cool the combustion chamber some. Second, it doesn't matter which waterpump you run as long as you have the correct pulley for it. Also generally a T2 rad will NOT cool as well as a T1 rad, due to the core size. My car generally runs 10-15 degrees hotter with the T2 unit. You can try and relocate your tranny cooler, but thats not really the problem. You need to get as much air as possible THROUGH the core of the rad. So look under the car sides of the rad etc.....Seal it up. Also a small trick is to put a piece of rubber on top of the rad to seal it to the rad support so NO air is able to get over the rad. Also realize that the fan does not come on until it hits aprx. 212 degrees. So verify this turn on point with your factory gauge.

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Old 05-20-2006, 12:43 AM   #10
 
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Tomorrow, the plan is to remove the old A/C condensor as I know a corner of it is plugged up with road grime and crud and install a manual fan switch. It runs way cooler with the fan on.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:02 AM   #11
 
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Another thing.. It wouldnt hurt to have your heater core flushed directly. When working hard my car never went over 3-4 bars. During a fabulous race with a buick regal one day.. the temp crepy waaay up.. and continued to act wierd from then on out. I totally redone the top end of the engine.. gaskets.. head testing e.t.c. I must have broken some junk in the cooling system loose and it lodged itself in the heater core.

I tore my engine apart because of a heater core. Get the thing flushed OR beter yet replace it with a new one before you tear into that engine again.
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Old 05-20-2006, 08:11 AM   #12
 
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I had a very similiar problem.

Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor falling out of range.

After you change this I recommend going back to 12 BTDC, it will run cooler.

Also check your glycol to water mixture with a hydrometer. More coolant than water means higher temperatures.
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Old 05-20-2006, 11:15 AM   #13
 
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Johnny is keeping our cars running
All of the ideas here above are great. I have one more small thought. What head gasket did you use? On a non-cross flow, I used a 006 instead of a 005 one time and my egt's went way high.

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Old 05-20-2006, 03:04 PM   #14
 
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There is something fundamentally wrong here. This is a setup problem, not an engineering one. There are some good ideas here, but I think looking at your timing is one of the better ones. Adding a manual fan switch is not the answer, this thing should be keeping cool on its own. There is no need to run 8* on this setup, even with pump gas. Reset it to 12*. Retarding the timing is putting your EGT's through the roof.
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Old 05-20-2006, 03:18 PM   #15
 
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Also, the "reverse" pumps didn't come in til '89 I don't think.
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