Finished: 24v 3.0 swap

[Shadow24V]

kk, took some more pics and finally upleaded them. at a standstill til i replace the flywheel, the slight misalignment i had with the block and tranny caused me to eat a deadspot in the ring gear. getting a j/y flywheel (wish i could afford the Fidanza one, but i need to save some $$$ incase the stock clutch is inadequate) Also looking still for an M90, got a few leads but thats it, same on a pair of 2.5L or 3.0L 24v heads. kinda whant to work on a spare set then once i go FI or whatever, swap the worked heads (probably w/ cams) in

no A/C belt routing and the relocated oil filter


cheap bracket to adapt the dusters alternator to the eclipse mounting bracket (just a piece of 3/8" steel lol)


nother shot of the different motor mount and custom mountpoint


the whole engine bay with messy wiring :-p (i need to clean that up......)


coolant returns, temp and guage sensor, also a few bellhousing bolts


TB, sensors, modified dizzy etc


smaler PS pump, still need to get a custom Hi-pressure line for it though......

[Shadow24V]

rear modified header and pipe from the front header


front header, oil mount bracket is between cyl 2 and 4. the starter was out too


remote oil filter kit with T for mechanical pressure gauge, again no starter lol


had to cut off one of the alternator mounting points to fit past the radiator. also cut off the plastic connector so i could wire the friggin thing lol

[Shadow24V]

UPDATE!!!!

well ive been arguing with the Megasquirt for a while now, and have resorted to obtaining an ebay Adj FPR which i will be installing soon to give me fuel pressure control. still need to check ignition timing to see if im even in the ball park

Also, i havent been able to do much lately as my flywheel decided to be weak (after eating a couplea starters due to a shim issue) and get a dead spot. still have to swap the flywheel. and while im in there i was able to break down and order a FWDPerformance HD 4 puck clutch and HD PP to go in, along with ARP flywheel and PP bolts, and a pair of axle seals.

p.s. anyone need a BRAND NEW, 0 mileage stock 3.0 clutch? $100 takes it....


back on track, when i pull the tranny out for the flywheel and clutch stuff, im going to do the axle seals and the drain plug mod. and fix the misalignment/shim issue.

in addition, i have also scored an Accel 300+ CDI box which is digital to boot, for $110 on ebay. has intelligent spark rev limiting to boot. thats going in soon to hopefully help with idle spark and all.

i do have to get one of my headers patch welded as i had a slip up where the positive starter wire hit the header with the battery connected and arc scored 2 holes in my header. (anyone near Alfred NY with SS welding capabilities? i can get beer......)

Front end has been taken care of with poly A arm bushings, new Falcon ball joints, MOOG inner and outer tie rod ends, and poly sway bar bushings. the ones on my car were probably the ones it came with off the factory floor....


i REALLY hope to have it running in the near future, so wish me luck

[TimTona]

is that a manual and if so is it the 3.77 gr and what would u want for it?

[Shadow24V]

trans isnt for sale, sorry. the stock 3.0 clutch and PP are though (large spline), and i have an entire 12v motor for sale or part out, PM me if you need any parts

[cj011]

What motor mounts did you use? Did you use the Daytona style clutch/flywheel assembly? I am curious about the detail of mechanically getting it to fit.

[Shadow24V]

for motor mounts, i used the normal P-body front, rear and trans mounts and only had to fabricate up the passenger side load bearing mount point. see pic below.

for a clutch/flwheel i used the stock 12v 3.0 flywheel and a FWDPerf. 4 puck HD clutch and PP.

[cj011]

what type of material did you use for the mount

[Shadow24V]

3/8" steel, my cousin bennt a 3" wide by 6-7" long piece into an L shape and added diagonal braces. these were then measured for the mounting bolt holes and then welded (slightly offset as you can see) to the framerail.

[cj011]

Thanks for the info. Is there any difference between how the Diamante motor and your would bolt up? Is there any RWD trannys for these motors?

[Shadow24V]

any 6G7* motor will bolt up to the tranny bolt pattern wise, there might be some minor fitment issues you can fix with a grinder or the like. as for RWD transmissions, i THINK there was a 2wd montero with a 6G72 but i dont remember off hand. that would work but the gear ratios would probably suck

[cj011]

I have checked around. Is there any info about getting the 3.0's into an Omni? After seening Ondonti's 107 mph trap speed at such low boost, I have evil evil ideas.

[Shadow24V]

an omni? got a big enough BFH? lol. i thought someone was working on a 3.0 omni but never finished it. if you want to go boosted, the 12v would be the way to go with the 8.8:1 stock pistons and 2v/cyl design will make gobs of torque. the 24v pistons and rings suck and its a whole different monster, stock dizzy wont work with a cal or standalone, wider heads, different exhaust manifolds etc.

[cj011]

I have no interest in using the factory computer. If I have to use EDIS to get the 24v to work, then so be it. If I have to modify the firewall then so be it. I was already planning to do that so I could fit decent manifolds on there. I was already going the route of an equal length manifold so I really don't care about using the stock exhaust manifolds. I have been slowly digging through the 3.5 6g74 short block swap for the 3.0's. Interesting stuff they have going on there. Hmmm, 3.5 short block and 24 valves, add some boost and that will be fun. In order to get this project going I would have to sell off all my 8 valve stuff that even includes a tIII head. I have alot of research to do. The only reason why I am playing with this idea is because of Ondonti's trap speed at 5-7 pounds of boost. Dear god, could anyone image his dam motor at 35 pounds. Even with my big valve and ported cylinder head, I highly doubt I coud post 12's even in my gutted Omni at that low of boost.

Keep in mind, my Omni only has the two front door panels in it. Once I get it to my girlfriends place in a week, I will start gutting the doors, slowly making any body panels that come off the car fiberclass, and going with lexan. The silly thing is this is a street car. I will never put a cage in it. That adds weight and the sleeper effect goes away. I use to own a bug that never had front brakes. So needless to say, I will cut and modify what I need to get the job done.

Dimension wise, how different is the sohc v6 and the DOHC compared to the 2.2/2.5 motors?

[Shadow24V]

in that case, if you want a REALLY nasty sleeper, the 3.5 would probably be a good way to go. its less boost friendly than the 24v 3.0 but with the gobs of torque the 3.5 has, it wont make that big of a difference.

For a standalone, Megasquirt EDIS 6 will be the way to go due to the ****ed up dizzy setup. you can get some OBX headers for those motors for cheap (300 or so). and the 3.5 comes with an equal length runner intake manifold to begin with (good for boost).

you will have to make up that passenger motor mount and go after the firewall with a BFH to get it to fit. you may have to notch the tranny in one place to get it to sit flush in one place, but a die grinder will solve that problem.

the DOHC heads for the 6G7* motors are good flow-wise, which is why the turboed 3Si's use them, but they sacrifice some down low power, making it a bit more peaky. they will bolt onto the 2.5/3.0/3.5 blocks. they are wider than the SOHC heads so they may cause some bigger fitment problems than the 24v SOHC. in my P-body, i have about 6-8" wiggle room in the engine bay front and back (combined) with the 24v. if you look at the pictures i have posted in this thread and in my updates thread in the 3.0 subforum you can see how it fits.

24v updates