'88 Shelby Z pulls harder at less than WOT? - Page 2 - TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

anonymous_user · 03-24-2007, 11:32 PM

Quote:

I dont know why nobody is willing to believe us when we tell them this is normal behaivior. Just do a search for the many many posts... you'll see.
Or join D-cal and download a stock calibration and view it for yourself.

Who knows? The question has been answered. Apparently the answers from those that know the code are not good enough.

So, I recommend tuning the WOT until it pulls just as hard as the part throttle. I'll see ya in a couple days in the parts wanted section lookin' for pistons!

slowbrokedodge · 03-25-2007, 12:29 AM

Im done with this thread, evidently you dont understand the problem because you havnt driven this car. I understand what you are saying but I dont think the path you are putting him down is the right one. I think after driving it there is a different answer much simpler than blaming the stock computer.

1991SpiritES · 03-25-2007, 12:31 AM

I really don't know about that. So far the GLHS has about 20K plus miles on it with the Stage 2 computer on it with no problems on it. And I know it still has some issues with it. And for the 91 Spirit ES Turbo it has about 2000 miles on it and it still pulls strong. I have been dealing with these cars since 1993 and me personally have never run any problems with the stock computers or the mopar computers on these cars at WOT except the one time with the GLHS. I have yet to ever blow one of these motors up yet.

daytonajesse · 03-25-2007, 03:16 PM

Ok so obviously the issue must be different than what I thought.

Have you checked the basics like cam and ign timing?
Verify your tps by hooking up a voltmeter to the signal wire and slowly open the throttle all the way and close it again. Your looking for a nice smooth sweep of readings all the way up and down.

It might also be knock retard, but then I would expect the problem to occur when at part throttle as well.

DaytonaTurbo87 · 03-28-2007, 02:55 AM

maybe fuel pressure is too high/low? At part throttle + high boost the computer is trying to maintain stoich, but at wot it's shooting for what it's programmed for. The point is you should be making more power at wot than at part throttle because part throttle is running it on the lean side as far as performance goes anyway. This leads me to believe either your fuel pressure is too high or too low. At WOT o2 sensor feedback is ignored and the computer now has no way of correcting for an incorrect fuel pressure anymore so it goes and fires in the amount of fuel it's programmed for, which in your case sounds like it may be too little or too much. Either could cause the bog you're getting, IMO.

mock_glh · 03-28-2007, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1

The only issue I know of running wise is that even with my G-valve it will only pull about 9#'s of boost.

That is the problem^. Turbo II's are calibrated for 12 psi at WOT. If you're only pulling 9 then you're getting too much fuel. Find out why you're not getting full boost. Could be a clogged cat, or a leaking boost hose, or maybe even a clogged intercooler. Find that extra boost and the power will be back.:)

I had a similar problem when I first went turbo with my Omni. I was using an '85 computer (calibrated for 27# injectors) with 33# injectors. With 10 pounds of boost it would go dead flat at 4500 rpm. Thinking it was lean, I raised the fuel pressure and it got worse. So I pulled the hose off the wastegate and it went to 17 psi and WOO HOO! Power!

GLHNSLHT2 · 03-28-2007, 11:25 AM

It's gonna feel faster at almost WOT than at WOT because the WOT curve is much richer on stock and MP and probably some of the vendor cals. It's about a full point on the a/f scale. So 13.0:1 at part will be 12.0:1 at full. But if you're at 11.5:1 at part you could be 10.5:1 at WOT which really starts killing power. GET A WIDEBAND AF GAUGE SETUP! Tune the car for for the right a/f and control the detonation with the spark curve. With a wideband a/f and Dcal or CHEM you can have the car safely tuned with 1/4 tank of gas or less :) Trusting that narrowband sensor is dilusional. Trust me. I was on cloud 9 up until last weekend thinking I could tune close enough with that narrowband crap. I was trying to get the narrowband over .9v and could only get .88v out of it. And it was a 4 wire sensor with soldered wires. Plugged in the wideband and found out that even though the Narrrowband would only read .88v I was pegging the gauge at over 9.0:1. Yeah the car was a lot slower than it should of been. I tuned it back to 11.5-12.0:1 at WOT and the car just flys now. With the price of these things EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE ONE. You can pick up a nice controller and sensor with their generic gauge from Innovate for $289 off their site. Or you can get there Fancy XD-16 setup for $317+shipping off Ebay. And with their accesories you can just stick it in the end of the exahust on all your cars and tune every one of them.

GLHNSLHT2 · 03-28-2007, 11:30 AM

Low boost shouldn't be the problem because the ECU only gives the amount of fuel for whatever psi the motor is running. Wether it's 7psi or 14.7. Right???

Reaper1 · 03-28-2007, 01:34 PM

This car is STOCK...I plan to keep it mostly stock. I'm pulling about 13#'s of boost now and it likes it a LOT. The problem is pretty much gone. It still is noticeable if you are really paying attention, but not that much. I'm happy with it. The car is fast enought o get me in trouble, and so far economical enough that it's saving me money!