Engine runs, then stalls then does not start

[jeniik]

I will, you are my only hope. In fact this is my homepage... ;-)

Thanks a lot.

[anonymous_user]

NAJ is doing a great job helping you here.

I just want to mention a new HEP does not mean a good HEP. They can be bad from the store, or go bad as soon as they are installed. Best ones are original equipment from a junk yard.

[looneytuner]

Check out the name Austrian Dodge on here. He is in Vienna. Just thought you might want to know a fellow TDer is close by.

[jeniik]

Yes, NAJ is doing a great job, lots of patience I must say...

Wienna is abou 250km (divide by 1.6 to get miles ;-)) south from here so it's not "close" in our perspective but never mind. There are lots of K-cars running around - poor country, old cars you know...

I found some totalled Daytona near by and I'll try to get my hands to its internal organs but that may take some time.

I've already tried to install that faulty set of sensors. That gave me code 54 (the reason why I've replaced them) and no code 11. So... well... I do not know. My other clue is that there was problem with the overboost cut out but there is no code about it, the map seems to be working....

Do I need an engine swap? ;-)))

[NAJ]

Sorry I am late,Internet Connection lost from T-Storms,Verizon finally fixed the problem,took 6 Hours.
Lets check the Hep and Circuits.There are 2 tests,1 for Ignition Reference Signal and 1 for Sync Pickup Signal.
Testing Ignition Reference Signal ;
Backprobe the Gray Wire at the Distributor Black Connector with a Digital Voltmeter,Have a helper "Bump" the Starter,Voltage should "Toggle" from 0 - 5 Volts as the Shutter Blades pass thru the Pickup. If Voltage Toggles then Ign Reference Signal is OK.No need to go further on this test.
If it does not recheck at Engine Controller Term.#47 of 60 Pin Connector.If
No Voltage Check the Orange PWR Supply Wire for 9.2-9.4 Volts.Check at Distributor Black Connector and at Engine Controller Term.#52.If Voltage is Present at the Controller but not at the Distributor repair the Orange Wire for Open or Short to Ground. If there is No Power at Engine Controller check Terminals for Damage,Pushed Out or Corrosion.If Terminals are OK and No Power,Replace Engine Controller.
If there was No Toggle as tested earlier and you have 9.2 Volts on the Orange Wire,disconnect the Black Connector and on the Controller Side of the Harness probe the Orange and Black/Light Blue with the 2 Voltmeter Leads
if you are reading 9.2 Volts the Signal Return line is OK,Replace the HEP.
If Voltage was not present when probing the 2 wires but everything else checked ok repair the BK/LB Wire for Open or Short to Ground.
3 Notes ;
1)I had an Aftermarket HEP fail in my car 4 days after it was put in,I really only recommend using a Mopar HEP.
2)My Daughter in Law had a K-Car that would just randomly shut off,the problem was terminal integrity at the Distributor Connectors,Terminals and Connector were loose and would lose contact,Check Connectors and Terminals thoroughly.
3)Recently had a TD Guy with a similar problem,Terminal in Controller was not locking in connector and when the Connector was plugged in the Wire pushed out,it was not visable,so again Check ALL Terminals Thoroughly.
Get back to me with your results or if there is something in these diagnostics that is not clear.

[iloveshelbys]

any update on this? My shadow is doing the same thing and i cant figure it out

[turbomini]

umm ok did you try this is the ground on the injectors lose? on my omni it wasnt letting the coil get full power and it would run but die all the time. or the wirirng for the hall afect had a bad spot and it would die but start in about 5 min...the wiring would move and lose conection and diei had ot move the harness to get start... just a thought. and thats what this forum is about helping lol nice work NAJ!!!

[NAJ]

Hey Thanks!!!! Not sure what I did but glad I could help,you do realize when something goes wrong with my vehicle it won't be this simple.LOL!!!

[jeniik]

What you did NAJ? You made that car go!

The brand new HAL had a crappy finish so the wires were too close to each other and that made a short sometimes and that killed the engine.

We found it only thanks to your last post...

MANY thanx man! If you are into beer I think I can send you some bottles of the all original pilsner. Are you interested? ;-)

[iloveshelbys]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeniik What you did NAJ? You made that car go! The brand new HAL had a crappy finish so the wires were too close to each other and that made a short sometimes and that killed the engine. We found it only thanks to your last post... MANY thanx man! If you are into beer I think I can send you some bottles of the all original pilsner. Are you interested? ;-)

whats an HAL?

[NAJ]

Glad I could help,I do not drink but really appreciate the offer,the Fact that you are up and running and is enough for me.
One of the Best Things about this Site is You get to Help People that Truely Appreciate It!!!!!

[turbomini]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Glad I could help,I do not drink but really appreciate the offer,the Fact that you are up and running and is enough for me. One of the Best Things about this Site is You get to Help People that Truely Appreciate It!!!!!

lol i am the same way if i help get it running (and if i can drive it once) thats good enough for me

[jeniik]

HAL - Hall effect sensor, that's the HEP ;-)