New Guy...with a 2.5 to 2.2 question

[imthegr8_1]

now, i probably shouldnt be asking anything yet, as the car is not in my posession, nor do i know what year 2.2 was put in...but the car is a 1989 5-speed turbo Daytona...my uncle cracked the block on the 2.5 that was in it, and replaced it with a 2.2. When he did it wouldnt go more than 30mph and was running PIG RICH...now, the car has been sitting in a garage for the past 10 years because he hasn't had the time or money to mess with it. Well my GTP just had a trans failure...so my uncle suggested i take the Daytona out of that garage and try to get it running. So what im asking is, what all needs to be changed going from a 2.5 to a 2.2...b/c by the sounds of it...he just dropped the 2.2 in and went. TIA

Steve

[NAJ]

Running "Black" Rich will only be caused by 4 things :
1)Map Sensor Circuit (Pneumatic or Electrical)
2)Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit
3)Air Charge Temp Sensor
4)High Fuel Pressure
Depending on what year engine was swapped the Engine Controllers may be different.
You will have to find that out first.

[guidsm]

I guest he run the 2.5 SMEC and that why he run pig rich..

[anonymous_user]

The 2.5 SMEC on the 2.2 engine will run rich, but only slightly. It would be driveable with reduced economy and performance, but would have no other ill effects.

Something else is wrong.

[imthegr8_1]

i talked to him yesterday..he says its a 87-88 2.2..which would mean its the T1 right?...and that he swapped the 2.2 injectors with the 2.5...so im starting to think he didnt hook something up right...is the FPR vacuum controlled?...if so, im thinking he didnt hook it up...my uncle isnt the brightest when it comes to cars...so i bet there is at least a few vacuum lines he didnt hook up..or something

[NAJ]

I would definitely check Vacuum Line Routing.No Vacuum to the FPR will cause a Richer Condition because it will stay at Max Regulated Pressure but will not cause a Black Rich Condition.On the other hand Incorrect Vacuum to the Baro Read Solenoid and Map Sensor will.There should be Manifold Vacuum to the Baro Solenoid and from the Baro to Map.
Follow the Vacuum Diagram under the Hood and pay close attention to the Vacuum Line Harness that runs behind the Valve Cover especially if the Plastic Lines are still being used,they Split and Crack very easily.If there were Rubber Hose Splices used be sure they are Tight and Secure.

[anonymous_user]

87-88 2.2 could be T1 or T2. Externally the same.

I second the vacuum line statement. Start from scratch is the easiest thing to do. Get a vacuum block, run all new lines. Only run what you need. That should eliminate a lot of problems.

[cawcislo]

Check for fault codes too. That could also help you find out what's going on.