Code 13 and no check engine light

[daemon faust]

The car is a 1988 Lebaron Conv. 2.2L Turbo I



I looked the code up and it says it's MAP related, but it should kick the check engine light on. Well, it's not on, but the code is there.

I checked continuity from the PCM to the MAP and I got approx. 5v across it -key on, eng off, and 3.5v-4v -engine idling. And there is 10-12 vacuum going to the MAP through the Baro. Solenoid.

Are these good numbers?

Maybe I tested it wrong? My vacuum pump is broken at the moment, so I couldn't test the MAP per the manual I found.

The idle drops to barely running with the MAP disconnected, so I figure it's gotta be working, atleast partially.

Engine seems to idle well, but acceleration seems to be lacking, and it doesn't seem to be building boost, at all. Takes forever to get from 3500rpm to 4500-5000rpm. There's no boost gauge in the car, so I'm not sure where I stand there, either. But even at WOT, I can never feel the turbo kick in, or even hear it spool, for that matter.

Also, the odometer is not working, and the electric top and rear windows aren't working, though the front windows and rear defogger are - and all are located on the same switch panel in the console.... Any help on these problems would also be greatly appreciated.

[mmtphoto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by daemon faust The car is a 1988 Lebaron Conv. 2.2L Turbo I I looked the code up and it says it's MAP related, but it should kick the check engine light on. Well, it's not on, but the code is there. I checked continuity from the PCM to the MAP and I got approx. 5v across it -key on, eng off, and 3.5v-4v -engine idling. And there is 10-12 vacuum going to the MAP through the Baro. Solenoid. Are these good numbers? Maybe I tested it wrong? My vacuum pump is broken at the moment, so I couldn't test the MAP per the manual I found. The idle drops to barely running with the MAP disconnected, so I figure it's gotta be working, atleast partially. Engine seems to idle well, but acceleration seems to be lacking, and it doesn't seem to be building boost, at all. Takes forever to get from 3500rpm to 4500-5000rpm. There's no boost gauge in the car, so I'm not sure where I stand there, either. But even at WOT, I can never feel the turbo kick in, or even hear it spool, for that matter. Also, the odometer is not working, and the electric top and rear windows aren't working, though the front windows and rear defogger are - and all are located on the same switch panel in the console.... Any help on these problems would also be greatly appreciated.

A 13 is vacuum, not electrical, so I'd start with connections, you might have a line off or a cracked line. If that doesn't work, you might be looking at a new MAP.

[daemon faust]

anyone got a schematic for cleaning up the vacuum lines on this thing? Just what is absolutely needed to make it go and have good power? I don't have to worry about emissions testing. I'd just like to be able to get out of the way and not worry if the guy 1/4 mile up the road is gonna hit me in the ass when i try to pull out in front of him, lol.

[EvilcowRoland]

You need vacuum lines to the MAP, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Boost gauge, boost controller (wastegate solenoid), and Blow Off Valve if you have one. These should all be sourced off the intake manifold, likely the front port. You should have a seperate line to the PCV valve. And there should be a line off the back to the brake booster. If you don't have a vacuum diagram under the hood, there are plenty posted on Donovan's Dodge Garage and around the site. You should definately get a boost gauge. 10-12 vacuum is way low. You should see 15-18 at idle.

[NAJ]

You forgot the baro solenoid.
Manifold vacuum (16-20"hg) to the baro and from the baro to map.
Tee a vacuum gauge in line between manifold to baro then baro to map, should be the same reading.

[daemon faust]

Thank you guys.... I mended quite a few lines today... almost have boost, but it's intermittent. i may need a new harness for the fuel rail. or i got another vacuum leak there i haven't been able to nail down yet. I know there is a way to simplify these lines, i've seen it done. It's just been ten years.

[EvilcowRoland]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ You forgot the baro solenoid. Manifold vacuum (16-20"hg) to the baro and from the baro to map. Tee a vacuum gauge in line between manifold to baro then baro to map, should be the same reading.

He has an '88 so I was assuming his baro was still connected to the MAP by the short stock line. So technically I should have said "baro/MAP combo" I guess.

[NAJ]

Sorry, it is not my intention to try to make anybody look bad.
I only mentioned the baro because too many times people bypass the baro without realizing what is actually is or the vacuum lines are connected incorrectly or the vent is blocked off.
Since we are not there with the car we need to mention everything or someone may feel it is not needed.

[EvilcowRoland]

No worries. I'd rather people fill in information gaps than not. I make no claims to be perfect and I have no doubt you know more about these cars than I do.

I can't take credit for this diagram, but I did modify it slightly for the new cars (it was originally for a log intake setup). This should give you an idea of the important items. What's not pictured is the PCV and brake booster/cruise control systems, but usually people don't have much trouble with them. See if this helps with routing and let us know how it goes.

Note: I show the purge solenoid as a reference but you don't need it connected to vacuum for the car to run. Just leave the electrical part plugged in or it will throw a code. And make sure you can off the ports on the throttle body if they're no longer in use.

[Fiveohwagon]

Thats quite an epic picture....

[EvilcowRoland]

Reposting cause I broke it.

[EvilcowRoland]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fiveohwagon Thats quite an epic picture....

Wait until you see the 3D walk-through version.