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Old 09-24-2008, 10:15 AM   #1
Head studs...  
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So I am going to be pulling the head of my car to swap out the smoker Mitsu that is on there right now... My questions is - if I will have the head off again in the spring or sooner to do something else, would it just make more sense to get head studs for 100$ rather than head bolts for 50$ every time I need to pop the head off? Anyone? Is it easy to use the head studs? Worth the money? ANy notable problems with them? Reuse them as many times as needed?

Thanks for any input - I am on the fence with this one.

Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:18 AM   #2
Re: Head studs...  
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i'd use the ARP head bolts, studs i feel are for big power and the bolt are only 90+shipping
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:46 AM   #3
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So I am going to be pulling the head of my car to swap out the smoker Mitsu that is on there right now... My questions is - if I will have the head off again in the spring or sooner to do something else, would it just make more sense to get head studs for 100$ rather than head bolts for 50$ every time I need to pop the head off? Anyone? Is it easy to use the head studs? Worth the money? ANy notable problems with them? Reuse them as many times as needed?

Thanks for any input - I am on the fence with this one.

Thanks!
Jason
head studs rock, totally reuseable, only downside is you cant slip/slide head gasket and makes head removal a little more challenging.
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:52 AM   #4
Re: Head studs...  
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Ok are the ARP head bolts reusable?
It is just annoying having to drop 50$ on bolts every time I pull the head...
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:02 AM   #5
Re: Head studs...  
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Ok are the ARP head bolts reusable?
It is just annoying having to drop 50$ on bolts every time I pull the head...
stock headbolts are reuseble also. infact right in the chrysler 2.2/2.5 book it says they can be reused 3 times. however if your uncomfortable with reusing head bolts buy new ones. realistically, if you do a proper head gasket repair, how often do you really need to take the head off again... another 100,000 miles or so?

if you are one of them guys that just cant stand leaving your car alone, even if it's working fine, then get head studs which you can reuse over and over again.

if reusing the head bolts, use a beam type torque wrench when doing the 90° finish torque of the sequence. this will show you what the actual torque value is. if you see the torque dropping when you approach 90°, that bolt is junk. you should see 85-100or so ft lbs on the end of 90° under 85 means the bolt has stretched beyond it's point of elasticity
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:08 AM   #6
Re: Head studs...  
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I was not sure if head bolts were reusable... The ones on there now have only been used once... (Never reused) so I might be good on reusing them...

The thing about this situation is I need to swap out a smoking turbo, but really not ready for an upgrade till spring. SO I decided to put another stock mitsu on there for the winter months then pull it off to swap the turbo in the spring...
So I figure it will be off a couple times in the next year or so...

BUT reusing the headbolts may be the best option for me this time around...
My next question - is it ok to use a stock headgasket from the dealership vs. the MP headgasket? I am only going to run like 10 psi through the winter months...

Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:12 AM   #7
Re: Head studs...  
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Get the head studs, you won't regert it.
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:17 AM   #8
Re: Head studs...  
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I was not sure if head bolts were reusable... The ones on there now have only been used once... (Never reused) so I might be good on reusing them...

The thing about this situation is I need to swap out a smoking turbo, but really not ready for an upgrade till spring. SO I decided to put another stock mitsu on there for the winter months then pull it off to swap the turbo in the spring...
So I figure it will be off a couple times in the next year or so...

BUT reusing the headbolts may be the best option for me this time around...
My next question - is it ok to use a stock headgasket from the dealership vs. the MP headgasket? I am only going to run like 10 psi through the winter months...

Thanks!

if you know for a fact you're going to be pulling the head in a short time, why not just use the cheapest headgasket you can find. i've used a detroit head gasket cost me under $15 and it's been on the car for several years running 12psi boost.
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:33 AM   #9
Re: Head studs...  
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better idea- just undo the clamp that holds the mitsu turbo together and swap out w/o removing the head. Make sure you support the brass elbows with wrenches when tightening the water lines.
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:47 AM   #10
Re: Head studs...  
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I have never thought to do it that way...
I know for a fact all the bolts holding the mitsu on there are pretty seized and corroded... would be worth looking at in lieu of pulling the whole head off...
I am liking this idea... I did swap a turbo out without taking the head off before and swore I would never do it again... but you are saying all I have to do is unclamp that ring on the turbo and it will come off? (water and oil feed unbolted as well) What about where the turbo bolds to the exhaust mani? Sorry if that is a dumb question - I am having a hard time visualizing right now...
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:13 PM   #11
Re: Head studs...  
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The moving parts of the turbo all attach to the center section, then all that gets strapped onto the cast exhaust housing.
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" Raise boost till you blow the head gasket(or crack pistons), then back off slightly."
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00555.jpg

dyno sheet

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...l-2-5-s60.html

1992 GTC convertible 2.5s60/3in Tu sv/+40S/ FWD CAL /FMIC/self ported head+1mm exh valves/self ported ex mani/stock 2piece w/stock tb/PSSSSTSSSS

fmic install:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...tall-done.html
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:59 PM   #12
Re: Head studs...  
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So the only thing that holds the center section and the exhaust housing together is the clamp in the middle... So the removal would go something like this?...

Unbolt downpipe from swingvalve, disconnect the cooling and oil lines - undo the clamp in the center - and pull the center section out - then replace the center section to the exhaust housing that is still bolted on the exhaust manifold.

Does that sound like the basic plan?

Hopefully the fittings for oil and coolant will come off the turbo...

If it's that easy - that will save me lots of time.
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Old 09-24-2008, 01:18 PM   #13
Re: Head studs...  
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Pretty, much except you left out all the cursing that can go on.
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" Raise boost till you blow the head gasket(or crack pistons), then back off slightly."
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00555.jpg

dyno sheet

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...l-2-5-s60.html

1992 GTC convertible 2.5s60/3in Tu sv/+40S/ FWD CAL /FMIC/self ported head+1mm exh valves/self ported ex mani/stock 2piece w/stock tb/PSSSSTSSSS

fmic install:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...tall-done.html
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Old 09-24-2008, 01:26 PM   #14
Re: Head studs...  
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haha - that is about right...
but you think it would take less time than pulling the head off though? that is awesome if I can manage it this way... saves lots of hassle...
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Old 09-24-2008, 03:05 PM   #15
Re: Head studs...  
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easier to pull the head IMHO. Studs rule! Less stress on the threads than bolts, reusuable, and stronger when upping the boost. You can do a slip and slide gasket change (not recommended) if you have to, just have to unscrew the studs and pull them out. I'll never use bolts again. Even if you don't forsee pulling the head for another 4 years I'd still get them. If you ever have to pull the head you'll be ahead in $$$. Who know's how much the bolts will be 5 years from now. And the idea of stretching a bolt to a torque spec just doesn't sit well with me.
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