Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

lametec · 06-05-2003, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pauvil
my fuel system does not get pressure until the car starts, I've watched a gauge and just turning the key on and hearing the pump kick in DOES NOT PUT PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM.

Could be a bad check valve in the pump. Not really a problem. Can cause slow starts is all.

mcaracter · 07:59 PM

My pump is brand new, and now I've put in a starter that I know is reliable. The ignition is still doing nothing to start the car. I tried bypassing the neutral safety switch and the reverse lights no longer come on. I also activated the starter using a ratchet to connect the two terminals on the solenoid. The engine cranks but will not start.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do.

P.S. I really want to get this thing running and ready for SDAC-13 and that's only a few weeks away.

lametec · 06-06-2003, 09:55 AM

Any codes?

mcaracter · 06-06-2003, 04:40 PM

Only 11, 12, and 55. Once I got the starter to crank I think the 11 went away.

lametec · 06-06-2003, 04:56 PM

You think or you know?

11 would cause exactly what you're experiencing.

mcaracter · 06-06-2003, 05:29 PM

I just went back and tested it again. With and without the bypass the only code that came up was 55.

iTurbo · 06-07-2003, 09:39 AM

The reason your code 11 went away is because the engine was finally cranked over and the HEP distributor reference was triggered. This is a good sign! If at this point your only code is 55, I'm sure you'll have it running fairly soon after the starter issue is resolved.

mcaracter · 06-08-2003, 01:22 PM

Unfortunately, I don't know how to resolve the issue. As I see it there are two problems. ONE: The car doesn't even try to start when you turn the key. and TWO: The engine doesn't seem to be getting fuel and will not start when the starter is activated manually.

I'm screwed.

iTurbo · 06-08-2003, 01:35 PM

Do you have a multimeter to test circuits with, or verify power is actually reaching the fuel pump?

Try this test: (to verify ASD operation)
Remove the distributor from the block. Leave all connections plugged in, but pull the coil wire so it grounds to the head. Now turn the ignition switch to 'on' and turn the distributor tang (bottom) by hand. When you turn it, you should hear the ASD relay click.
After doing this, you'll have to retime the engine. Make sure the distributor is inserted back into the block in the same orientation so that the ignition timing is not 180' off.

If the ASD relay works, and you are still not getting fuel, I would use a multimeter to probe the pump connector to verify it's getting power.

mcaracter · 06-08-2003, 01:43 PM

I don't have the tools to retime my engine. I think I may have to just take it to my mechanic.

I do have a multimeter though to test the fuel pump.

lametec · 06-08-2003, 05:25 PM

For what a mechanic will charge you to set timing, you could buy your own timing light.

mcaracter · 06-09-2003, 02:03 AM

What kind of price range are we talking about here? I've known my mechanic for more than 10 years and he usually cuts me pretty good deals. But it's not like I'm against owning new tools!!:big grin:

lametec · 06-09-2003, 08:53 AM

Range is from $30-something to several $100.

Myself I have one of the cheapest ones you can find. Bought at Wal-Mart, I think. Does the job.