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post #1 of 10 Old 01-01-2012, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

Hi im new to this fourm and im having some vac line issues on my 88 shelby z problem 1 i need a vac line diagram i have a book on the car and to my suprise there was no vac diagram also there is not one under the hood problem 2 were could i get all new vac lines as dodge sadly can no longer provide these partshttp://www.turbododge.com/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-01-2012, 10:17 PM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

DDG- Vacuum diagrams for Mopar turbocars


Any auto part store would have the rubber vacuum line you need.
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-02-2012, 12:11 PM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

Welcome To TD.

If you still have the original plastic vacuum harness you will want to get rid of that and install a vacuum block.
Splicing the OE harness only creates more issues.

Here is the link to a thread on installing vacuum blocks and the materials needed and where to get them.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...-93-turbo.html

Any questions or more info needed feel free to ask.
Do not know if you have a T-1 or T-2 so here are both diagrams.




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post #4 of 10 Old 12-25-2012, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

Hey guys its been awhile since I've been on here and I've done a lot with the car I just built a 2.5l bored .40 over ported and polished head big ass cam +40 injectors everything is forged blueprinted and balenced I'm running fwd's stage 5 ECM 3 bar map sensor and a .63 mil turbo I called down there and they told me not to follow the vacuum system diagram there is very little to hook up I was wondering if any one can send me pics of how you did everything and actually show me were each connection is and what you used I've seen a lot of vacuum shit on the forums but I'd like someone to break this down barny style so I can eliminate all the confusion and get this car running the correct way and also if you can list the parts used if possible I know it's on the forum but I'm hoping we can put all this info here in one tbread
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-25-2012, 11:57 PM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

Who told you to not follow the diagram? FWD?

Unless you know how the system works you shouldn't be modifying it.

really the car needs just two vac lines to run, 1 to the Baro/MaP setup, and 1 to the FPR.

If you go computer controlled boost you'll want to have the lines hooked up for the WG solenoid circuit. Or run a manual boost controller.

Boost gauge is optional.

You'll want the brake booster to see vacuum.

Emissions and Cruise control are optional.

Whatever you decide to run hook up just like the vac diagram says too.

Now stock nylon or aftermarket polyurethane lines can be found here.
Pneumatic Components | AutomationDirect.com

Both are available in stock or larger sizes. Don't use rubber or silicone. They'll suck shut or balloon out affecting the signal to the sensors. In stock sized they'll plug right into the stock connectors.

100ft rolls of the stuff are around $20 depending on size. Enough to last you for 4 cars forever. They even have wild colors.

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post #6 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 01:11 AM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

when doing computer controled boost, both FWD and TU tell you to go to pressure type boost control, not bleed type. Which would be the lower diagram that NAJ put up.

Computer controled boost doesn't work too well with big mods though, normally it is best to use a MBC.

Like mentioned the hard lines to give the computer a cleaner signal than rubber hose.
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 01:17 AM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

BTW autozone has the hard vac lines and the rubber ends for connecting it all up. It is excessive to buy 100' of poly line.
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post #8 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

So can some one walk me thru this with pics I'd like to have some nice factory options still cruise control being a main one any one have it done and want to show me were it all goes?and yes fwd said disregard the diagram sent some photos but I need a few more and the way y'all are doing it sounds much different. I'd like to have her going again real soon
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

Any ideas on why she starts but kills right away I have codes 12 22 23 I don't have my coolant sensor just yet so that solves 22 but the other 2?
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-26-2012, 07:55 PM
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Re: 88 dodge daytona shelby z vac diagram

12, normal and nothing to look at
22, coolant, needs to be in or limp mode killing power
23, air temp sensor, also causes limp mode

Car is going to run horrid in limp mode. Need to get both in then check it. Consider the hall effect sensor in the dist, get one from Mopar. Often those cut out and kill the engine without giving a code. Car should stay running with codes.

ALSO we had this issue a while back, I went over to the guys house and he ran it low on fuel lol. There is a "cereal bowl" around the pump that traps fuel, but it also keeps fuel out in a spot where the car sat for a while. The little flaps don't open and let the fuel in. So with an 1/8 tank you run out of gas. Make sure it has a 1/2 tank in it and 2 quarts of marvel mystery oil in it. Listen to the pump, if it gets loud right before shut down it is running dry.

look at the 684 pic from NAJ, plug off everything to the purge solenoid and the vapor canister. The rest you want.

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