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[4Daytonas]

well stock you have a nasty wall for coolant to run into, backs up the pump in the housing.(Quote) Doesn't the water flow from the pump to the block--The smaller hole in the pump end would need porting IF the water came from the block TO the pump.

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DetroitTurbo What is the purpose of coolant flowing from that frost plug in the side of the head? where does it flow to? Why do I want one so bad when I don't even know what it does?

coolant sits there and boils from BTU transfer through the head during the fire stroke. The extra heat build up heats the cylinder more than the others causing detonating in the one cylinder before the others.

[The Pope]

are you going to make any more of the old design? The new design requires force against the head. Heat cycling here over time will allow it to bend and leak. Not right away, but in time. If you use this type you need direct pressure at the head. Fender washer would help. But I believe the best bracket for direct pressure AND room for the fitting is the hold down for a small block Dodge distributer. The early type uses the unit to press side ways inside the whole. The new design requires force at the head. That far away it'll fail in time, may not work at all with some heads that are rougher.

I like being larger diameter though, even with the O ring inside having the thing wider would help. The other option for force at the O ring is using the lower support hole as well. Too much work though, adding the old O ring to the new wider plate would be faster.



as you can see to get force on the nose they go back and have rear support. Making it longer on the cam side and adding a 1/16" bump on the head side would also put force on the O ring. Like a dist hold down a bit, the gap under the bolt allows force on the O ring.

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope are you going to make any more of the old design? The new design requires force against the head. Heat cycling here over time will allow it to bend and leak. Not right away, but in time. If you use this type you need direct pressure at the head. Fender washer would help. But I believe the best bracket for direct pressure AND room for the fitting is the hold down for a small block Dodge distributer. The early type uses the unit to press side ways inside the whole. The new design requires force at the head. That far away it'll fail in time, may not work at all with some heads that are rougher. I like being larger diameter though, even with the O ring inside having the thing wider would help. The other option for force at the O ring is using the lower support hole as well. Too much work though, adding the old O ring to the new wider plate would be faster. as you can see to get force on the nose they go back and have rear support. Making it longer on the cam side and adding a 1/16" bump on the head side would also put force on the O ring. Like a dist hold down a bit, the gap under the bolt allows force on the O ring.

I think the face seal version gets the job done (see below), but, this is an experimental design thats still evolving, so if you have a strong feeling about the bore seal version, I'll make one just for you, to your specification. I can make it bore seal with a hole for the lower bolt as well as the upper one. Thing is, I have to buy a $75 keyway cutter to do it right, so i'd have to ask you to buy the kit for $75 shipped. Just buy it directly from me so I don't have to pay Ebay's 9.6% highway robbery.

So heres my shpiel on the current design:

I know the cantilever face seal looks like it might be subject to bending or warping or some other kind of failure, but if you look at the data, I'm not asking much from 6061-T6. Stress fatigue is 15,000 pounds/sq in for 100 million cycles to 40% tensile strength, at which point the oring would still have 10% compression on it. At 300F for 10000 hours, 6061 loses 25% tensile strength, so even less of an effect. And since its a chunk of aluminum bolted to another chunk of aluminum with coolant flowing through it, I don't think enough of a gradient could form to cause warping.

It does, however, matter that the bolt in question be secure and put pressure on the adapter plate evenly. And it does matter that the design limit deflection from the static load of the oring, which is almost 100lbs, and resist bending under normal forces (pulling on the hose, having a tool dropped on it, who knows). So the design that ships right now is improved from the pictured version as follows: its 0.1" thicker which increases stiffness a factor of 9, and its wider at the bolt end. It also comes with a flange head bolt and thick washer.

I like the bore seal design, but it not without its flaws. I've yet to not scratch the bore surface pulling out freeze plugs, and once you've scratched it, you're already standing there with a kit that wont work anymore, a hole you cant really plug, and the coolant drained. At least with the face seal you know if your head surface is good or not before you buy the kit.

By the way, I've just received my shipment of fittings, and I get hose, orings, and hardware tomorrow, so all kits ship within 2 days! (not yours though Pope, I have to write new toolpaths for it and the cutter has to come in, so you'd be waiting a couple weeks hehe)

[acannell]

coolant mod...Pope edition..

$75 with fittings and hose shipped, PM me if interested

[The Pope]

I was thinking the current seal with 2 bolts or the old seal with 1 bolt. Do you need a different cutter to do the current seal and the 2 bolt setup?

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope I was thinking the current seat with 2 bolts or the old seal with 1 bolt. Do you need a different cutter to do the current seal and the 2 bolt setup?

If you are okay with me using the dremel bit I used to make the oring groove in the bore seal version you like, then I can do that for $60 shipped, plus I'll give it a proper finishing pass around the outer profile that the one you've seen didn't have. I'm not sure if the dremel bit makes an oring groove thats okay or not. Its not really a bad finish, but if I were going to make them regularly, I'd buy the proper carbide keyway cutter, thats what the new cutter is. The person that bought the one on ebay hasnt installed it yet..so its not really known how the bore version works out or how the dremel groove in the bore version works out. I havent even tried it.

If you want a 2 bolt version of the current face seal style, I can also do that for $60 shipped. I dont need the new cutter for that, its all end mill. It will be exactly the same as the one on ebay right now, except that it will be 0.1" thicker, have 1" diameter bolt hole zones, and come with bolts and washers. The oring will be the same one as the one currently on ebay. I will have to rewrite the toolpaths and change the fixture though, so it'll be 3 or 4 days before yours ships.

Both options are of course for the whole kit (1 foot SS braided hose, hose fittings, right angle fittings, oring, bolts and washers, adapter plate)

[The Pope]

sweet PM me your info on payment?

Also if you use a Reliant Frame Bolt you don't need a washer. Serrated Flange Screws means no washer and they are locking type too. I use them on swimming pools. Suppose it would matter whether or not some one wants to take one of these off all the time. I'd say no other than an O ring replacement. May get more than one so don't lose the program lol.

Do you ship it in pieces? I may angle the fitting different.

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope sweet PM me your info on payment? Also if you use a Reliant Frame Bolt you don't need a washer. Serrated Flange Screws means no washer and they are locking type too. I use them on swimming pools. Suppose it would matter whether or not some one wants to take one of these off all the time. I'd say no other than an O ring replacement. May get more than one so don't lose the program lol. Do you ship it in pieces? I may angle the fitting different.

I decided to use a flat bottom flange bolt because otherwise it would really do a number on the aluminum, so the washer should work okay.

Its shipped with all the fittings seperate, the hose uncut, nothing installed, so that you have max flexibility to fit it to your engine bay.

Which version did you want? The two bolt face seal?

I've PM'd you my paypal info. Make sure to tell me which version you want.

[The Pope]

yeah 2 bolt face seal I think will work well for me.

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope yeah 2 bolt face seal I think will work well for me.

The prophecy is fulfilled!

When I first tried it out with the oring I thought there was no gap at all when it was tightened down..its barely there, about 3.5 thou, almost not visible to the naked eye. Although I think the one bolt version will do the job, this is certainly more solid _feeling_. I think you will like it very much.

I have all the parts for the kit now. Just send the paypal over with your shipping address and I can ship same-day.

[DartGTS340]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turismolover22 Maybe making and machining a throttle body adapter so people with TI cars can use a TII style intake. This would be especially helpful on 84 turbo cars, with their clusterf**k wiring. I've seen people fudge stuff like this already, may as well make a legit unit.

I've done this
Adapter1
Adapter2
Adapter3
Adapter4
Adapter5
It's a plug and play unit

[DartGTS340]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turismolover22 Custom pentastar shift knob inserts......aluminum oil caps, all kinds of stuff. I would pay a good dollar to have a C/S oil cap that looked factory for a daytona. Best thing is it could be made of plastic.....

I have some oil cap medallions I'm doing that look better than the repros I've seen pics of.

[92TurboTona]

Quote:

Originally Posted by acannell The prophecy is fulfilled! When I first tried it out with the oring I thought there was no gap at all when it was tightened down..its barely there, about 3.5 thou, almost not visible to the naked eye. Although I think the one bolt version will do the job, this is certainly more solid _feeling_. I think you will like it very much. I have all the parts for the kit now. Just send the paypal over with your shipping address and I can ship same-day.

this should be the one you continue to make as this one looks great as i will probably snag one after the holidays are over

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DartGTS340 I have some oil cap medallions I'm doing that look better than the repros I've seen pics of.

those look nice