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[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope this is what I have Aerator Pump A-Series Livewell Pump System 500gph - Products - Discount Ski Tubes and gear located in Sydney, Australia when doing a water to air intercooler the issue is room. The next is great place to put a pump and the tank. You need a tank for more volume, needed for cooling. The 160 LPH Ford Mustang pumps don't flush the IC with enough coolant fast enough. They are also very expensive. So the V8 group uses bilge pumps. The one I have is 500 LPH and has 3/4 NPT ends. Doing pools for a living I know any restriction on the suction side is like small exhaust with a turbo.. A square box, that uses the 3 bolt holes for the charcoal can. That hangs down enough to mount the pump either in front of it or under the frame. That also has a 3/4" bung at the top to use the hole for the charcoal can would be great. All TDs basically use the same can. Female threaded bungs up and down in 3/4" NPT would allow the fitting to be screwed in at the top and the pump screwed in the bottom. Bilge pumps come with the gasket and so on to screw them down, but the cap in the charcoal can hole would need a threaded hole though and be sealed. This would be great for GLH and mini van owners that need water to air for room and keeping there AC.

This sounds like something I can make, couple questions:

-Will I be able to verify fit and dimensions on my 90 daytona?
-This replaces the charcoal canister right? (just confirming)
-So its a square tank, with three mounting bosses and a 3/4" npt bung on the top, in a pattern to match the charcoal canister, and replace the charcoal canister. On the bottom, there is just a 3/4" npt bung? But doesnt the pump you linked to have a through-wall gasket type connection to the tank? What is the lower 3/4" npt bung for? "Female threaded bungs up and down in 3/4" NPT"?

Assuming you meant just at the top, then the bottom has a flat surface with a hole appropriate to the bilge pump, oriented in a way so that the pump fits in front of or below the frame.

Would you buy one of these if I make it? I wouldnt need one myself so I cant do it free. I could make you the tank for $100 shipped. Do you know anyone else that would want one? The more people that want it, the lower the price.

[The Pope]

1. don't know, should be real close, frame to can difference to look at
2. yes
3. The 3/4 female bung in the C can hole is return coolant, the one on the bottom is suction. The pump, the long threaded section goes into the tank. Either threaded in or just a hole and the gasket. May be best to not break a pump installing it. BUT a lid like you show above would be needed to get into the tank to screw on the "nut" and gasket to seal the pump in place.

If 1 off and $100 I think I would draw it up for you. I have been planning to just make something in there but making "something" fit in that location could fall in front of the tires lol.

There is other uses though. Would be great for a devils own tank, out of the way under the hood. Any water to air type system can use a tank in that location. This is going to be something I need to measure for. Don't want the pump hanging down for the whole world to see lol. Don't want to go through the expense and not have enough volume. So I'll measure something up tomarrow

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope 1. don't know, should be real close, frame to can difference to look at 2. yes 3. The 3/4 female bung in the C can hole is return coolant, the one on the bottom is suction. The pump, the long threaded section goes into the tank. Either threaded in or just a hole and the gasket. May be best to not break a pump installing it. BUT a lid like you show above would be needed to get into the tank to screw on the "nut" and gasket to seal the pump in place. If 1 off and $100 I think I would draw it up for you. I have been planning to just make something in there but making "something" fit in that location could fall in front of the tires lol. There is other uses though. Would be great for a devils own tank, out of the way under the hood. Any water to air type system can use a tank in that location. This is going to be something I need to measure for. Don't want the pump hanging down for the whole world to see lol. Don't want to go through the expense and not have enough volume. So I'll measure something up tomarrow

Oh yeah....you have to get into the tank to screw the flange for the pump on..I'm not sure I follow you about the lip. I would imagine a hand-sized hole to allow you to reach in and hold the pump flange. And an associated sealed lid of some kind to block the hole. Rats. I guess something can be figured out for that. Maybe just a plate with a gasket on the side of the tank?

Making a tank like this in sheet aluminum, with bosses, threaded NPT ports, and holes is definitely within my "fast prototyping" zone. The hand-sized hole with sealed cap is a sticking point, but maybe we'll figure out some way around that. I've got filler rod, gas, and tons of sheet metal in the garage, I can make the threaded bosses myself, and I can buy a tap to make the threaded fittings. I may actually be able to scream through this. We need to figure out how to connect the pump to the tank though...Threading it in is quite awkward. What about another piece of some kind? Maybe an adapter that converts the pumps flange fitting into a hose or something that connects to the tank?

I still dont get the tank having three ports...so the pump sucks water in from the tank through its long flanged fitting, and spits it out to a hose which goes elsewhere (intercooler, etc..), then the return from that goes to the fitting in the top of the tank...

Whats the extra NPT fitting on the bottom do? Im dumb..

Yep I can do this for $100 shipped so far. Anyone else want one?

[The Pope]

I was thinking lid, not lip like the upper tank. the lid has thickness and could be drilled and threaded.

I also ment one or the other, a hole on the bottom, or a threaded bung for the pump. You can screw the pump in with no gasket or nut to hold it.

Then I thought about the bottom of the tank, using 1/4" plate you can drill and thead the plate, no bung and screw the pump to the bottom. Use 1/4" at the top and thread holes for the C can holes and thread a 3/4" hole in the middle for the fitting. No bungs or lids, just thicker material top and bottom.

[GLHNSLHT2]

you want the reservoir up higher than the i/c though so air bleeds out.

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope I was thinking lid, not lip like the upper tank. the lid has thickness and could be drilled and threaded. I also ment one or the other, a hole on the bottom, or a threaded bung for the pump. You can screw the pump in with no gasket or nut to hold it. Then I thought about the bottom of the tank, using 1/4" plate you can drill and thead the plate, no bung and screw the pump to the bottom. Use 1/4" at the top and thread holes for the C can holes and thread a 3/4" hole in the middle for the fitting. No bungs or lids, just thicker material top and bottom.

How about we just assume a hand sized hole will somehow exist, the tank will have a flange so that a big hand sized lid can fit through itwith a gasket, and the pump can attach using its flange. That way we dont have to worry about those fine plastic threads stripping from the pump weight. And I dont have to buy some ridiculous 1.5" - 40 tpi tap hehehe

If you tell me the dimensions you want the tank to be, and where you want the pump, I can figure out how I can realistically make it and keep it all sealed, and then we can review my construction plan, and if you are happy with it, ill light up the TIG and we'll git 'r done hehe

Screw work tomorrow, stay home and get me dimensions in the morning heheheh

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 you want the reservoir up higher than the i/c though so air bleeds out.

you want the main tank, not the fill tank down low with no air

Actualy he may be able to make that thank too lol

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 you want the reservoir up higher than the i/c though so air bleeds out.

cant we just add a bleeder port on the intercooler or something?

[The Pope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by acannell cant we just add a bleeder port on the intercooler or something?

he is thinking about a different tank, the fill tank that works as the air bleeder.

The problem is that design gets the air out but doesn't directly add more used coolant. It maintains coolant level. The tank I'm talking about is directly involved with cooling and directly increases the "cooling volume" and doesn't work as a keep fill.

[acannell]

im getting real antsy i wanna make this!! dimensions dimensions

try to make sure the dimensions fit into a small flat rate box too k?

just kidding lol

[acannell]

totally off subject:

how bout some super experimental aluminum connecting rods? ill pick up some surplus 7000 series bar stock..anyone have an engine they dont care about that they could install them in?

i can probably get the bores tight, but the hole to hole distance would be tricky to keep tolerances on...i wonder what the hole to hole tolerance is anyway? its what 6"? +/- .001"? .0001?

and i have no idea how you cut the cap off

okay another idea:

how about some kind of system of cams/pulleys/whatever that gives us variable valve timing. theres so many different systems out there going back decades now and so many patents on them, i wonder if any of them can be retrofitted to our sohc head? seriously?

[DetroitTurbo]

Could we get a nice relay/smec cover for g-bodies? Just some bent steel or aluminum that molds around that drivers side area that we can paint to match the rest of the engine bay. I hate how messy that area looks, I just want to cover it up and forget about it.

[cawcislo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by acannell Wow that does look like our engine.. When bleeding the cooling system, you can just disconnect the hose from the t-stathousing and hold the open end of it near the same height as the bleeder port, I think that would allow you to bleed them system properly. This is totally an evolving project! We've already gone through three different adapter designs in the last two weeks lol. Ill do whatever you guys want as long as its still something I can reasonably hope to make a few bucks on. As far as where to hook the hose..can someone explain to me why connecting it to the tstat housing is not as good, if not better than any other location? Its like relocating the tstat housing to the proper place on the end of the head, to where we would never have even thought about needing this mod, right? Plus, you send hot coolant through the radiator, which is important, right? Is it that sending it to the water pump goes above and beyond just eliminating the wall and actually drastically increases flow or something? Is that it? I laid out a piece of hose in my '90 2.5 daytona and it looks like 3 feet would get you from the freeze plug to the water pump. That adds about $10 to the cost of the kit. I'm assuming you would want a straight fitting instead of a 90 to connect the hose to the pump, so that doesnt really change the price. Its too big to fit in small priority rate box though, and too heavy for first class, so shipping goes up $5. So I can make you a custom kit as follows, and you can be our water pump pioneer :) -3 feet instead of 1 foot of hose +$10 -replace one of the 90 degree fittings with a straight 3/8npt to 8an fitting $0 -shipping +$5 So $75 shipped gets you a water pump version. Hehe I hope Pope isnt listening I think he wanted that. I can do it for you too Pope if you want, just paypal me the extra $15, but you both will have to wait a couple days for the hose and straight fittings to come in. Would ship early next week. As far as the stock airbox, the previous version of the adapter had only one bolt hole (the upper one, pics earlier in this thread) which apparently is used for the heater hose bracket? I think that would let you use the stock airbox. My daytona has the weird lunchbox airbox (short and long front to back) which I think only uses the lower hole. I could modify the adapter to have a custom hole pattern for whatever, but I would need dimensions if its not my car.

I'm thinking of running a hose to y/t fitting to the heater core (actually in front of the heater bypass valve). That would require much less hose and I wouldn't need to snake a 3 foot hose all the way cross the engine. I believe I could route it just infront of the bypass valve which sits just under battery tray on turbo cars (up by the firewall on non turbo cars). Anyone know what size t-fitting would work? I'm assuming an abs/pcv plastic type fitting would work? What size heater hose is used for the heater core?

[cawcislo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by acannell totally off subject: how bout some super experimental aluminum connecting rods? ill pick up some surplus 7000 series bar stock..anyone have an engine they dont care about that they could install them in? i can probably get the bores tight, but the hole to hole distance would be tricky to keep tolerances on...i wonder what the hole to hole tolerance is anyway? its what 6"? +/- .001"? .0001? and i have no idea how you cut the cap off okay another idea: how about some kind of system of cams/pulleys/whatever that gives us variable valve timing. theres so many different systems out there going back decades now and so many patents on them, i wonder if any of them can be retrofitted to our sohc head? seriously?

VTECH turbo dodge's WOOHOO!!

[acannell]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cawcislo VTECH turbo dodge's WOOHOO!!

exactly!!

btw, i'm not the first person to think of this..i think variable valve timing retrofitting to cars that didnt have it has been going on for a few years..

at the least we could figure out why it _cant_ be done..