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Engine - General, Exhaust & Induction Topics about the general engine items, exhaust system discussed here & Improving the intake tract - air filter to intake valve.

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Old 01-28-2013, 08:00 PM   #16
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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I was slow to posting lol.

But you just posted up more pictures than show nothing really, top and front is meaningless. It could be a big valve ported head or stock from any of those photos
I pulled the cam tonight... Took pics with good cam but am having problems uploading to laptop.. Here is a pic from iphone again with cam removed. Not sure if what you are looking for can be seen here and it with this photo?
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #17
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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The pictures needed would be of the intake and exhaust ports (where the intake and exhaust bolt up), and the bottom of the head.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:32 PM   #18
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I'm sorry I have to be the bad guy. If you thought anything in that last photo you posted was a port or chamber , I must say your apparent lack of understanding of a cylinder head is astonishing. Especially since you've already started to tear into it. I really hope you followed proper torque procedure when pulling the cam. If at this point you're wondering what the procedure is, I suggest you stop immediately and do some serious reading on the subject before continuing, because you may have already messed up the cam and could seriously get hurt if you try to pull the valves and springs without the right tools. That stuff's under ALOT of pressure.

To answer your question as far as what to look for,

The dark circles in this picture are the valves. A good closeup of the combustion chamber (the B shaped crater that the valves are inside) would help us determine if the valves are oversized or not or any any work's been done with the combustion chambers




The squares in this shot are the ports. (high set's intake, lower set is exhaust.) A good closeup of an intake and exhaust port would also greatly help.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:08 AM   #19
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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I'm sorry I have to be the bad guy. If you thought anything in that last photo you posted was a port or chamber , I must say your apparent lack of understanding of a cylinder head is astonishing. Especially since you've already started to tear into it. I really hope you followed proper torque procedure when pulling the cam. If at this point you're wondering what the procedure is, I suggest you stop immediately and do some serious reading on the subject before continuing, because you may have already messed up the cam and could seriously get hurt if you try to pull the valves and springs without the right tools. That stuff's under ALOT of pressure.

To answer your question as far as what to look for,

The dark circles in this picture are the valves. A good closeup of the combustion chamber (the B shaped crater that the valves are inside) would help us determine if the valves are oversized or not or any any work's been done with the combustion chambers




The squares in this shot are the ports. (high set's intake, lower set is exhaust.) A good closeup of an intake and exhaust port would also greatly help.
Thanks a lot for your feedback and I'm not embrassed to say you are not far off on my lack of head knowledge. I did however try to post a 2 pics and only one uploaded. Attached is a pic of the bottom of the cylinder head. I didn't take a pic of the exhaust and intake ports but will get an post.
My engine skills and knowledge date back to grade 12 shop (which was a few years ago - some 20+). I recall torquing cam but don't recall torque procedure for removal but it makes sense. I have taken your advice and am wisely stopping teardown. Hopefully I haven't damaged anything and still have all my fingers and toes. I would never attempt to resurface the head or make any attempt at porting and polishing. Next step is dropping it off to machine shop to evaluate.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:08 PM   #20
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Thanks a lot for your feedback and I'm not embrassed to say you are not far off on my lack of head knowledge. I did however try to post a 2 pics and only one uploaded. Attached is a pic of the bottom of the cylinder head. I didn't take a pic of the exhaust and intake ports but will get an post.
My engine skills and knowledge date back to grade 12 shop (which was a few years ago - some 20+). I recall torquing cam but don't recall torque procedure for removal but it makes sense. I have taken your advice and am wisely stopping teardown. Hopefully I haven't damaged anything and still have all my fingers and toes. I would never attempt to resurface the head or make any attempt at porting and polishing. Next step is dropping it off to machine shop to evaluate.
Thanks
your getting some where with the photos lol. Basically what the block looks at and the manifolds.

It looks like the Ed Head I looked at already, the chambers have the right shape like mine but he doesn't use a scribe to get the curves all the same. I lock a caliper and make the curves off the casting so there all even. His are eye balled. May make no real difference in power, I am just more picky. The chamber design helps and increases flow from the head, low lift flow that was destroyed stock.

a cleaned straight on shot would be nice, I'd look for cracks other than between the valves which are normal.

Speaking of valves this is a stock valve head. +1 valves are this point are nice and use the stock seats. Then just doing a nice seat grind and blending any bad spots in the ports the tool makes would be nice. Not needed though I'm sure.

With the ports being able to see if the head has been cut at least to the guides is what to look for. If they were match ported and the roof of the ports at the guides wasn't raised it did nothing. I believe he raised the ports are the guide and then polished them. I cut near .300" at the guide to jack the flow but most are still near .200" which is still a big help.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:28 PM   #21
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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I'd like to add, because I'll get flack by the comment lol. When your looking for every drop of power, running in a class and your not allowed other mods. Or your Shadow and your already 10.0 and looking for 9s. One of these people, you need everything measured the same for every drop. The common street car or bracket racer doesn't need to worry about it with a turbo car. The bulk flow is still there.

With porting we measure everything. When each cylinder makes exactly the same power at the same RPM then the engine as a whole makes more power and revs higher. This is why people have equal length headers, single plane tuned intakes and muilt TB intakes. This is also why ports are measured to all be the same. Most of the porting I do doesn't include a turbo and it is more important without boost. So I measure everything to make sure everything is even. Even if you make a mistake, that mistake goes to all the cylinders. Otherwise it throughs off the engine.

From the photo even you can see the chambers are un even, which I've seen before and mentioned. But the bulk of the gain here is from the design, so it'll still help a lot. So my statement that is doesn't matter at this point, most likely your build is true. People gaining 3-4 HP here and there filling in gaps trying to go faster in a racing class would be different.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:19 AM   #22
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Hopefully these upload..
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:22 AM   #23
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Hopefully these upload..
One more timeEd Peters T2 Head-image.jpg
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:36 AM   #24
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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doesn't look like much was done. What a bout a pic of the combustion chamber now.
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #25
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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hopefully the unshrouded valves at least make up for the port floor they screwed up, i would look for another head and start over that does does not appear to be fixable unless you welded it up and that would be costly for sure, i had a head similar to that but they butchered the floor even worse than that, way too many sharp edges im seeing to be a professional job....
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #26
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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hopefully the unshrouded valves at least make up for the port floor they screwed up, i would look for another head and start over that does does not appear to be fixable unless you welded it up and that would be costly for sure, i had a head similar to that but they butchered the floor even worse than that, way too many sharp edges im seeing to be a professional job....
Dropped it off at the machine/engine shop today. They are going to check it out to see if it is worth putting $ into it.. If not ill scrap it and look for new one.

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Old 02-04-2013, 07:45 PM   #27
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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Dropped it off at the machine/engine shop today. They are going to check it out to see if it is worth putting $ into it.. If not ill scrap it and look for new one.

Cheers
Well got word back from machine shop today...looks like it's not worth putting $ into to make 100% unless I was to do myself(which isn't gonna happen). So I'm now gonna search for a new head.
Any ideas on what to do with this one? Any parts (or head) of value or use to anyone?
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:42 PM   #28
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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Ok I got some good insight re-head now for part two, the turbo.
Again have been advised that I have an Ed Peters Turbo. Anyone know what I should be looking for with this? Sorry once again for pic quality, iPhone is only way I can take and post pics right now.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #29
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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Ok I got some good insight re-head now for part two, the turbo.
Again have been advised that I have an Ed Peters Turbo. Anyone know what I should be looking for with this? Sorry once again for pic quality, iPhone is only way I can take and post pics right now.
Another shot
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:47 PM   #30
Re: Ed Peters T2 Head  
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Another shot
One more
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