Installing a Vacuum Block

[misery]

Man, those pictures are tiny.. har to really see anything...

Quote:

Originally Posted by wall-e here is the vacuum block all done and installed in my car and THANKS for all the help and info GREATLY appreciated

[CBMDennis]

+1

[misery]

Ok.. I'm not having any fun today... I was able to get all the parts to install my Vacuum Block... thought that I had it covered.. looking at all the diagrams and ready all the post...

But boy was I wrong... back groud info - 89 T1 stock -
got the kit from Cindy at FWD Performance.. the block and silcone hoses kit.. had hunt all over to get the barbs..

My first thought was to tee of the line the feeds the Brake booster..

So first thing I did was to update the PCV valve set up... the Silcon hose would fit on the fitting into the valve cover. so I went and got a new PCV valve and larger hose to plumb that in - fitting from intake into pvc valve then tee to valve cove and to air box. All good.. no issues... from there I go confused....

Planning on adding a g valve..

So I understand this - Vacuum source to block,

block to FPR
block to Map
block to purge

Then I lost.. looking a two seperate diagrams - one hase a line from the TB to the canister with a check valve and tee to boost. and the other line off the TB not used..

Then I see one where the other barb is running to the BOV inside the air box..

Other confusion - there are 2 lines off the turbo - one to the WateGate with a tee into the "spagetti" of lines.. the other tees into the line coming off the Brake Booster and into the air box...

Some one before me has alter the lines .. so it is a little fubar.. but I am running... I kinda of peiced it back together to be able to drive it to work..

I have left the main line into the canister open? should this cause me any issue?

I tried the set where the line off the TB going to the canister and tee for the boost - but no boost displayed - the gauge read 0 at idle or with boost..

the other question - there is tube coming up from the block that is connected to the "spagetti" - can I run the PCV using this and use the other barb for the vacuum block?

Please advice or ask question... I can take pictures tomorrow and post if need be...


On one good note - with the new hoses and pcv -and a few less connectors - at idle I am setting at 15 lb of vac verses the 13 I was at.. so today wasn't a total loss.. just not as productive as I had hoped...
Eric

[misery]

PS - I am really feeling stupid for not getting this..

[EvilcowRoland]

Don't feel stupid. It's really confusing when you first start trying to sort it out. But once it clicks it'll make sense. It helps to know what all the different systems do so you understand why they need the vacuum or boost sources that they do.

From your vacuum source, you have your FPR, MAP, and purge solenoid. That's right. You can also run your BOV (if you're using one) off the vacuum block or you can run it off the right side port on the throttle body. One of the ports sees manifold pressure when the throttle is open and the other sees it all the time, so you want the one that sees it all the time to the BOV if you go that route. If you are using a manual boost controller, you also want a line from the vacuum block to your controller and then to the wastegate can. All other ports on the turbo can be capped off and you can ignore the wastegate solenoid on the passenger fender. If you're using computer controlled boost, just replace the manual controller with the solenoid in the line (block to solenoid to wastegate can). The purge system from the factory uses both ports on the throttle body. The 2 ports should both have a 1-way check valve allowing vacuum to draw air into the throttle body, but no boost to blow back to the canister. The 2 lines then tee together and go to the canister in the passenger frame rail. It's to draw the excess fumes from the gas tank into the intake and burn them off safely, so maybe that'll help you think of why it's routed that way. And don't forget the line to your boost gauge from the vacuum block.

Assuming the cam is timed correctly and there are no leaks, you should expect to see around 18 in/Hg on your vacuum gauge. This will fluctuate based on altitude (higher alt = lower vacuum) and slightly with temperature (warmer = lower vacuum). 15 is good but 17-20 is ideal.

[wall-e]

Quote:

Originally Posted by misery Man, those pictures are tiny.. har to really see anything...

okay okay my phone sucks for taking pictures. dl them and blow them up if u want
hey how much was the kit form cindy by the way

[red88daytonaZ]

okay, im a little confused, i plan on doing a vac block but my car dosnt have the vac canistor or the 2 solenoids installed on the pasenger side in the engine bay, can these be bypassed using the vac block?

you can set it up like mine.i only have the boost gauge,BOV,MAP,FPR and a MBC



[IMG][/IMG]

[James Neidig]

I don't mean to hijack a thread, but what about all the orifices the vac diagram calls out? I have mine pretty cleaned up without a block, but would like to add one to clean it up further...

[turismolover22]

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Neidig I don't mean to hijack a thread, but what about all the orifices the vac diagram calls out? I have mine pretty cleaned up without a block, but would like to add one to clean it up further...

The orfices are not necessary, most people remove them. They are good to keep in line when staying with a stock (computer controlled) boost controller (i.e. WG solenoid) as well as the purge/evap canister (charcoal canister, big black thing with 3 nipples on it in the passener fenderwell)

They, in affect reduce the volume of air going to the specific devices at a specific time. The device will eventually see the same volume of air than when you say had a larger straight line to them, but it takes more time. So when you put the orfice into the WG line, they can have a tendancy to slow its reaction time, but not by much. If you keep the charcoal canister, you MUST keep the check valve and orfice that runs off the throttle body lines.

And for ease of use, if you delete the charcoal canister, and run with a vac block, buy two vaccum caps (rubber caps; a big pack can be bought at autozone) and cap off those ports, and just run any vaccum/boost assisted devices (such as a BOV) off the vac block.

The barbs and fittings can all be found at ACE hardware, they have everything from 1/16 barbs up to 3/4 and beyond.

[James Neidig]

Thanks. I knew their purpose, I was simply curious if they were needed. I still have the evap can in mine. All is set up per the factory diagram under the hood. I currently have my BOV connected to the right port on the TB. My grainger valve is connected off of the turbo nipple... Factory type routing is kinda messy... I'm a bit obsesive compulsive...see pic

[CBMDennis]

James, I left mine psuedo stock. I kept the vapor canaster etc and still installed a vacuum block. It would have been alot easier to have deleted it, but never did.

[lphthephunk]

I currently have my vacuum block inline with the pcv and the intake. Is this not proper due to the vacuum block getting some carbon air from the crank case? Should I just put a small cone filter on the pcv cap the one end of the vac block that is going to the pcv currently?

[turismolover22]

Your PCV line should go to the back of the VC, then to the air box.

It in no way should be hooked into the vac system, for any reason. Simply for the fact oil blows out the PCV port on the back of the Valve Cover, good way to blow oil and grime into your map, fpr, boost controller, solenoids, etc.

[lphthephunk]

hmmm. The PCV is Td and orginally it had one end going to a filter and the other had a vacuum line going straight to intake manifold. I thought I would be okay to run a vacuum block inline because of this.

But I see what your saying. So I should cap the end of the vac manifold that is going to the pcv currently, and remove that T and put a small cone filter on it?