Input on choice of oil.

[desertsnake1991]

What about all the "Old wives tales" concerning changing to Synthetics? As in, loses compression, adversely effects idles speeds...truth to that?? I have used Castrol GTX over here just because they (say) that the temperature protection is bonafied...and Turbos tend to make their fair share of Temps...albeit, I am not driving back home in Georgias glorious sunshine, or idling in traffic jams with the AC on......
tips? comments??

[BadFastGTC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkatzenb Steve Moisher on our Squirrel Performance site wrote this article. Similar information... http://www.***************/site/index.php?page=Oil+Tech Clay, Nice link. I am going to do some reading, and revise our article on the site. Frank

I have a good deal of miles on my cars and all of them have been run primarily on Red Line. Let me tell you a bit of the history as to why I chose them. I contacted all the major synthetic producing oil companies and asked for info on drain intervals and any data they had on ANSI tests performed on their oils. No one but Red Line would send any pertinent info. The rest sent ads and decals! Mobil sent me the same instructions regarding the drain intervals as stated in the article, change oil at manufacturers recommendations. Well that just sucked for me as I drive an average of 68,000 miles a year. I read all of Red Line's data and comparisons. I was still skeptical, so I called their tech line and talked to a gentleman named Dave. His answer to my questions came down to this, he said, " Even if I drive my cars half as hard as I said I did, I could still go the 12-18K on the oil and feel comfortable with that as long as the engine was in good operating condition to begin with and I changed the filter at regular intervals." So I did. I ran both my Shelby Lancer and the tan GTC with oil filter changes every 5,000 miles and topping off the oil level with the filter change. I did a complete change at the range specified. Now, the Shelby just got a new shortblock after 258,000 was on that motor and the GTC just got one at 160,000. Sledgehammer has been run on nothing but Red Line save for one oil change where I had none and I used Royal Purple for that change. The inside of that motor looks excellent. The tan GTC has a very clean inside to it. The motor was replaced due to a collapsed J&E thin skirt piston. The bearings show some odd wear on the mains, but it isn't oil related, something really weird happened in this one. The Shelby's shortblock will get torn down this weekend.

My whole point to this is you can run an ester based oil on the street. I would not want to test any oil with short little trips that just add condensation to the oil and expect the oil to be able to perform at an satisfactory level on a long term basis. Common sense needs to be applied whatever oil you use. I'm sure the other true sythetics are excellent oils, my money is on Red Line. The best endorsement I ever saw for Red Line was the GM Corvette getting it dumped in their motor towards the end of a 24 hour race at Daytona with Mobil on the side of the car as a sponsor and the TV announcer telling those watching what was going on and how popular the oil was down there with the endurance racing crowd. Be that as it may, car guys are as fiercely loyal to their oil brand of choice as they are to their beer, or cigars, or their woman........

[desertsnake1991]

wow! Nice feedback...well, I will consider switching I guess...I can get it on Post (AAFES) tax free...see what happens. Which weight would you recommend for the harder/faster running TII engine I have?? thanks again-

[Frank]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadFastGTC beer, or cigars, or their woman........

And you should know!!!!!


Thanks for the information dude. Yeh, short term condesation trips are something that would be hesitant on for ester based products. That is some good information though from you about your experiences. Thanks.


Frank

[turbovanman]

Yes, the old drive 2 blocks to the store and back, destroys engines,oil and exhaust systems.

[87ShelbyBro]

For anyone who still uses Lucas Products I urge you to take a read here...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

I have my VW changed at the dealership now(hey it's free!) but when it is up I will probaly go with Devac 1 or Shell Rotella T Syn. 5w40 or 15w40. I may even use it in my other cars just to keep it simple. It is a very good oil, strong TBN, and a very good additive package from what I read. It is also available just about everywhere.

Supertech oil at Walmart is actually better then you think. While the synthetic is actually much like Castrol Syntec as in a highly refined coventional oil. It is a very good buy for the price. The same can be said about their oil filters. Why buy a Fram when a Supertech is better all together. Supertech filter are made by Champion Labs which also make Purolator products.

Right now I am testing Napa Synthetic out in my fiance's car, it is a 5w30 and has been in for 5,000 miles. I am changing it out this weekend and sending a sample in for analysis.

Also anytime a car see's below freezing temps a 5w or 0w should be used. Anything thicker is sucide for the cam and it's bearings on start up. Sure your bottom end may be fine and maybe even the turbo may survive but I prefer my valvetrain to not tick like a grandfather clock for 5 mins apon start-up.

[BadFastGTC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertsnake1991 wow! Nice feedback...well, I will consider switching I guess...I can get it on Post (AAFES) tax free...see what happens. Which weight would you recommend for the harder/faster running TII engine I have?? thanks again-

I run 5W-30 most of the year, when temperatures rise into the mid 70's and above, I switch to the 10W-40.

[contraption22]

Just some side info about short trips and moisture int he oil. Over the summer, I put an oil "catch can" on my SRT-4 to keep prevent the crappy OEM PCV valve from allowing oil to accumulate in my intake manifold. Over the summer, I got about a tablespoon of oil every few hundred miles. Over the summer, I get a few ounces of sludge in there every couple weeks! But the thing is.. it's probably about the same amount of oil, but it's whipped up with so much moisture, that it fills up my little catch can relatively quickly. I only drive about 4 miles to work if i take the long way, and the oil doesnt really get up to temperature.

[DirectConnection]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadFastGTC I have a good deal of miles on my cars and all of them have been run primarily on Red Line. Let me tell you a bit of the history as to why I chose them.

No... let *ME* tell *YOU* why you chose Red Line!

Steve, remember a couple months back when I was telling you about a SDML post you had on Red Line oil and Comp. Cams? You didn't seem to remember at the time and thought I was wacked Well... I found it and will paste it here: (VERY good info... it has me sold!)

Steve wrote:

Lastly, when talking about break-in for the cam and oils, he stated no break-
in was required for this style cam and he laughed about RED LINE oils stating,
"that stuff is extremely slippery." He remembered my mention of using it in
my letter to Comp Cams. He said RED LINE has a coefficient of friction so low
that it is not recommended for use with their cams in applications where the
lifter rides on the cam. Reason is that the lifters will not rotate on the
cam. Even roller wheels are just sliding and wearing out due to hot spots.
Mobil 1 has the same effect, but not in near as many cases. They actually are increasing spring pressures on rollers to try to get the wheels to turn and
have recommended glass beading the cam to give the lifter something to grip if running RED LINE. Interesting point about how slippery RED LINE is. I'm a
former Mobil 1 user for what it's worth - nothing actually!
Steve M.

[BadFastGTC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirectConnection No... let *ME* tell *YOU* why you chose Red Line! Steve, remember a couple months back when I was telling you about a SDML post you had on Red Line oil and Comp. Cams? You didn't seem to remember at the time and thought I was wacked Well... I found it and will paste it here: (VERY good info... it has me sold!) Steve wrote: Lastly, when talking about break-in for the cam and oils, he stated no break- in was required for this style cam and he laughed about RED LINE oils stating, "that stuff is extremely slippery." He remembered my mention of using it in my letter to Comp Cams. He said RED LINE has a coefficient of friction so low that it is not recommended for use with their cams in applications where the lifter rides on the cam. Reason is that the lifters will not rotate on the cam. Even roller wheels are just sliding and wearing out due to hot spots. Mobil 1 has the same effect, but not in near as many cases. They actually are increasing spring pressures on rollers to try to get the wheels to turn and have recommended glass beading the cam to give the lifter something to grip if running RED LINE. Interesting point about how slippery RED LINE is. I'm a former Mobil 1 user for what it's worth - nothing actually! Steve M.

I had completely forgotten about that conversation! Perhaps my desire to expunge all relative info regarding the Super 60 cam had something to do with that.

[DirectConnection]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadFastGTC I had completely forgotten about that conversation! Perhaps my desire to expunge all relative info regarding the Super 60 cam had something to do with that.

I could cut and paste your S60 trials and tribulations if you wish?
Seriously, you did try ALOT of interesting ideas to get that cam to work.