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09-20-2005, 12:41 PM
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#16
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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HMM im at least checking my parts to see if theyre not broken first!! but seriously i love reading about your n/a projects gone turbo. You mentioned something about cutom cals? what type of custom cals can you do?
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09-20-2005, 06:00 PM
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#17
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Basic stuff, fine tune a stock cal to match my engines a little better.
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09-20-2005, 06:02 PM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i thought i remember reading about you turning like an 86 or an 87 t1 LM into basically the same computer that a glhs has?
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09-20-2005, 06:37 PM
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#19
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ewing, NJ
My Ride: 87 Daytona Pacifica
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Una thats awesome! How long did it take you total? 3 days? Did you use any duct tape?...lol...I lost it when you said about the felpro, re-used and mixmatched bolts and reusing the manifold gasket..lol
as for MY junkyard prices....Logic Module for $11 Turbo II manifold for $6 (even if I found an 87 one piece, they wouldn't know the difference...$6) and I think a head is $20 Entire engine like $80 Any small parts, $1 ...oh yeah and no charge to enter the yard....good place
-Lee
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09-21-2005, 01:12 AM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Yeah, I can take an '85/'86 T1 LM and make it into a GLHS LM very very easily. I also know one of the guys on the d-cal list is just about ready to publicly release his 3bar GLHS calibration, once he's done testing it. Whole lotta work involved to do that kind of conversion to a calibration.
I drove the car this evening, about 10 miles, drove it to town to get some gas and back. No hood, no BOV, not even an airfilter actually. No hood either. heheh Seems good, no turbo lag at all, at least compared to my Horizon which lags BAD with the TBI exhaust. I have the exhaust system from my GLHS on this car, since my GLHS is getting a full 3" setup, seemed like a good use for the old exhaust.  The new shift cable setup is quite nice too, nice '89 Daytona shifter/cables so it's short throw. The tranny is rather sloppy internally, unfortunately, but it's soooo much better than it was. I'll get pictures posted in the next couple days.
Future note: Do not put a minivan harness into an L body, it's TOO LONG! BY FAR!
hehe..
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09-22-2005, 12:02 AM
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#21
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Drove the car home this evening. Not sure how much boost it's getting, I have the manifold plumbed directly into the wastegate. Crappy old boost gauge I had was showing only 4psi.. Feels like a whole lot more than that, and I shouldn't be able to run the boost that low anyways. It pulls like mad, revs quick. LOVE the new shifter setup. Holy cow, soooo much better than before, pretty much as good as my Daytona.  It's got a slight miss occasional under vacuum, most notable as I tip into the gas. But it feels smooth, you can just hear the miss. I'm having a hard time tracking down where I left my compression gauge, I'd like to see how the compression is doing. I have two theories on the miss. First and most likely, the cap, rotors and wires are out of my junk pile. They're probably bad. Other possibility, I don't have an O2 sensor yet, kind of explains why it runs great under boost where the O2 isn't used, and the miss isn't a real miss that you can feel.
We'll see, may pick up an O2 sensor for it in the next few days if I can dig up some cash. I'll get pictures of the rats nest under the hood tomorrow. 
Did I mention the car is an absolute blast to drive?
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09-22-2005, 02:40 AM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Una, where is that parts yard?
They have a great yard over on Highway 99 in lynnwood/mountlake terrace. The pick and pull there is affordable. They also have another location about 30 blocks north.
I really hate the places that wont sell anything unless you buy the whole motor, or sell parts for near new prices. Im sorry, when someone charges $28 for a throttlebody, and I got an entire intake inluding injectors and tb for $12.50, you get made real quick at the expensive place. Of course this yard See's the TD's losing their turbo's like hotcakes because they cost $15 a pop. trannies are 50 bucks, shortblocks 80, and complete engine 120-140.
I went to a parts yard here in Utah (commercialized pick and pull), and they wanted $216 for a 3.0 intake assembly (injectors = 6x$8, tb = $30, upper intake = $40, lower $40, fuel rail, $20) something like that, then they must have added in a "we hate our customers fee."
I told the guy at the counter that the price was rediculous, and that the complete motor only cost 150, so how about I give him 20 bucks for this stuff. He got all pissed off, so I told him he could keep the stuff, and since no one will EVER buy the manifold, and no one will buy that motor now, I feel vindicated and I let the worker know that.
I guess I could have got the stuff for 150 by just calling the intake an "engine" or just saying Im donating the shortblock and heads back to them.
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09-22-2005, 10:53 AM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Ondonti, it's the same yard your talking about up in Lynnwood, they have a Lakewood branch also. Lakewood is only about a 45 minute drive for me, where Lynnwood is at least 2 hours. Tho I did go to the Lynnwood one once, that's where I got the big brake setup I have on the front of my Daytona.. 
Drove the car to work this morning. The miss seems to be entirely related to the throttle, it only misses as I tip into the gas. Probably the O2 sensor is what I'm leaning towards, but it'll get new plug wires and such too. Checked the oil, was still a golden color (go figure, I put 4 1/2 quarts of cheap 5-30, and 1/2 quart of Dexron, ran the engine up to temp, then changed oil and filter and put in 10-40 synthetic) and I hadn't lost any oil. Water was still full, which was kind of a surprise. You'd have to see the horrible patch job on one of the radiator end tanks to understand what I mean there..
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09-22-2005, 05:25 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Ok.. Decided sometime today that I want to take this car to the drag strip tomorrow.  See if I can get some 14's out of it. Should be safe to run 14's with an A525 in an L body if I don't have wheelspin/hop, right?
And the guy that's buying my turbo Horizon from me will be running that car tomorrow too.  Should be a blast.
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09-22-2005, 07:58 PM
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#27
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Motor City
Engine: 135 CI
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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You should get the charger painted, sell that and start a little business.
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09-22-2005, 08:57 PM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by BuRn__
i agree, turbo my NA for around $200 
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hehe, maybe $500 plus parts.. It's alot of work.
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09-22-2005, 09:21 PM
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#30
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Pictures
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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WooHoo, pictures!
Ok.. 2 shots of the engine and the rats nest of a wiring harness I stuffed into the engine bay. Tomorrow morning I'm swapping out the stock airbox so I can put a BOV up there.. 
3 shots of the shifter setup. I have it bolted down with 3 bolts. One in the middle up front was where a factory shifter bolt hole lined up with a hole in the middle of the shifer assembly. The two rear I drilled holes for and put nuts underneath. The shifter is out of an '89 Daytona, and yes, I'm using Daytona shift cables. I drilled the hole for the shift cables directly in front of the shifter. As you can tell, I had to cut away some carpet to be able to do this. For those who are wondering, the gromet for the shift cables takes a 1 3/8" hole. I used a holesaw.  Best shifter/shift cable install I've ever done in an L body.  The shifter clears the parking brake handle just fine, but is still a bit farther back than stock. I like it alot. Needs a shift knob BAD, it's uncomfortable!
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