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Engine - Exhaust Topics about the exhaust system discussed here.

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Old 11-18-2005, 09:00 PM   #31
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMPerformance
yep divided scroll I use a 1.28 A/R on the exhaust
Awesome. Im pretty sure the divided setup helps regardless of the many efficiencies in the whole system I have.

Im looking for people who will help me find the parts to use a gt4294 compressor setup mated to a t4 center section. My current 57 trim compressor is not even close to being up to task. Cant run higher then 14 psi without it dropping below 60%....and it runs between 60-65% from 0-14.

Im a fan of the devided setups, and Im also a believer in track results over benchracing from people who never step up and build what they think is better.

Your manifold would be worthless to me, but its pretty lame the people who could benefit shot the project in the foot.
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:40 PM   #32
 
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Bill thats exactly what I'm planing. But after seeing SMP's equal design I may try one just for fun for my car.

SMP I definatly will take any input from you to hold true do to your HP numbers, years of experiance, ect..ect.. BUT what is wrong w/ the design? Did people not like the external wastegate local or did it not show to be a good power adder for fab time involved? The guy welding everything up has made dozens of equal headers for custom V8 applications in racecars so I know he could weld something close to whats in you pics.

Thanks
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Old 11-18-2005, 11:03 PM   #33
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super60Dodge
BUT what is wrong w/ the design? Did people not like the external wastegate local or did it not show to be a good power adder for fab time involved?
Thanks
Joe
fab time is about 8 hours thats not to bad

I know the header is good and with the back to back test done 54WHP and a big egt drop(on a modified car) for $600.00 is not to bad either

I was just tired of hearing people bashing my work see most (persons)
go by pre deternined rules I dont I try different combination untill I find what is the most efficient My challenge as always been to make the most horsepower a the lowest boost

I still have a few ready to weld laying around but like I said I lost interest
with the 8 valve header

below is the link to the tread where some people explain Why My header is a bad design even another shop made a few comments but then again i'm still waiting to run against them at the track they where building a fully legal charger with a 2.4 turbocharged engine guess they still didnt figure how to built the header

equal length turbo header
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Old 11-18-2005, 11:52 PM   #34
 
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I think it's odd how people are so quick to make comments and make fools of them selves. Your link showed me how dumb some people can be. When it comes to building real power I go to the guy's that know.

"I was just tired of hearing people bashing my work see most (persons)
go by pre deternined rules I dont I try different combination untill I find what is the most efficient My challenge as always been to make the most horsepower a the lowest boost"

The head I have is as maxed out for a stock casting as it can get. If this one runs out of steam I know where to find a trick cast head or 2 or 3 but any way. If your willing to sell the unwelded kits lmk how much you would like for 1. I can have my welder tig it together and send it for coating.
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Old 11-19-2005, 12:12 AM   #35
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMPerformance
yeah your right Bad design funny I run the same 4 into 2 into 1 to the turbo on my race car

do you know wath exhaust pulse tuning is ??? do a seach

if I listen to everybody Including the GM engineers they dont understand how I can spool a turbo with my long 2 into 1 header I dont believe in pre dertemined rules I do R&D on TD'S

everybody as opinions but build me a header that will provide produce more horsepower (1000HP)them mine at the same boost level and spool a gt42R 33 psi at 4500 rpm then Ill admit my design is bad and I will buy one !
Sorry, I didn't say it was a bad design. I just wasn't fond of it. I'm sure it works well just not what I'm looking for.
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Old 11-19-2005, 12:26 AM   #36
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2
Sorry, I didn't say it was a bad design. I just wasn't fond of it. I'm sure it works well just not what I'm looking for.
sorry my Bad
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Old 11-19-2005, 04:42 AM   #37
 
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big talkers who will keep talking big and going slower. Incredibly lame.

If you can do better, do it, dont BS about it because you are feeling empty in the pants. Thats 3rd grade stuff to diss on something to make yourself look smarter/better.

Thats actually one of my big goals, to let nay saying SDML anti 3.0 people eat their words. They will, every single one of them.
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Old 11-19-2005, 10:42 AM   #38
 
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As the old saying goes

"It's better to stand there and look stupid then to open your mouth and remove all doubt"

This expression can also be used at your local race track when people start bragging.
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:46 AM   #39
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ondonti
big talkers who will keep talking big and going slower. Incredibly lame.

If you can do better, do it, dont BS about it because you are feeling empty in the pants. Thats 3rd grade stuff to diss on something to make yourself look smarter/better.

Thats actually one of my big goals, to let nay saying SDML anti 3.0 people eat their words. They will, every single one of them.
after building a 3.0 liter twin cam with a custom turbo kit with a custom T-72 twin scroll and seeing the hp and torque numbers we saw running at only 22 psi

I'M guessing alot of people will be speechless with what your 3.0L will do
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Old 11-20-2005, 01:55 PM   #40
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ondonti
big talkers who will keep talking big and going slower. Incredibly lame.

If you can do better, do it, dont BS about it because you are feeling empty in the pants. Thats 3rd grade stuff to diss on something to make yourself look smarter/better.

Thats actually one of my big goals, to let nay saying SDML anti 3.0 people eat their words. They will, every single one of them.

Here are a couple of posts from someone who is going to build a killer 3.0

I still have to deal with my head problem now. Not really sure whats wrong. Loud tick sound (not the same as my lifter tick sound, much louder) comming from the rear head (after I lost a piece of porcelin from a plug when my fuel pump crapped out). Thinking I bent an exhaust valve, because the car is incredibly loud now. Not sure. I would like it to be broken valve train so I can just pull the valve cover. I used a stethescope and the sound is comming from cylinder # 6 on the rear head. I wish I had more experience with this stuff. Ive never had a reason to tear apart the heads/motor before. Ive taken everything else possible off the car, done 5 speed conversion and everything, but actual engine internal work is not something I am experienced with. I try to avoid those things especially since Im a student away from "home"

I broke the ringlands off where the intake valve relief is. I broke 3 my first incident, replaced the plugs and drove 900 miles to Utah. Then broke another piston. Replaced the plugs, then broke another piston but this time it broke through the top and well, having a hole in your piston is bad. Im shopping for forged pistons now in 8.0:1 flavor. Timing was advanced to far, and fuel pump failed to provide fuel (possible electrical hiccup). Running on the edge of a fuel pumps capacity is stupid. I see why people say to have 20% more capacity then you expect that you need. Then a little voltage drop wont kill your motor. I have datalogs from the last 2 times I broke a piston. Its quite interesting because the first 4 pistons that broke left absolutly no evidence that they had broken in the chamber.
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Old 11-21-2005, 12:15 AM   #41
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR Tuner
Here are a couple of posts from someone who is going to build a killer 3.0

I still have to deal with my head problem now. Not really sure whats wrong. Loud tick sound (not the same as my lifter tick sound, much louder) comming from the rear head (after I lost a piece of porcelin from a plug when my fuel pump crapped out). Thinking I bent an exhaust valve, because the car is incredibly loud now. Not sure. I would like it to be broken valve train so I can just pull the valve cover. I used a stethescope and the sound is comming from cylinder # 6 on the rear head. I wish I had more experience with this stuff. Ive never had a reason to tear apart the heads/motor before. Ive taken everything else possible off the car, done 5 speed conversion and everything, but actual engine internal work is not something I am experienced with. I try to avoid those things especially since Im a student away from "home"

I broke the ringlands off where the intake valve relief is. I broke 3 my first incident, replaced the plugs and drove 900 miles to Utah. Then broke another piston. Replaced the plugs, then broke another piston but this time it broke through the top and well, having a hole in your piston is bad. Im shopping for forged pistons now in 8.0:1 flavor. Timing was advanced to far, and fuel pump failed to provide fuel (possible electrical hiccup). Running on the edge of a fuel pumps capacity is stupid. I see why people say to have 20% more capacity then you expect that you need. Then a little voltage drop wont kill your motor. I have datalogs from the last 2 times I broke a piston. Its quite interesting because the first 4 pistons that broke left absolutly no evidence that they had broken in the chamber.
Point being what?

My pistons are going to be a bit under 7.5:1 compression now. Now sure what else to say. They should ship this week. Point stands about SDML.
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