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11-28-2005, 05:43 PM
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#91
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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I know its not for sale and probably won't be, but I would say 1500$ for a one off piece like that is more than a bargin. Remember, when someone is buying something thats low production or handmade, you're not paying as much for the product as you are for the knowledge, as obviously, not many people can build things like that.
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11-28-2005, 06:04 PM
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#92
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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That's Schnobbin' !! ... one question though Warren. Would putting a couple of slip joints in the last section of each of the legs (where you welded the 2" spacers in) ... would that simplify the turbo mounting? You wouldn't have to allow for so much heat related movement in the S/S.
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11-28-2005, 06:19 PM
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#93
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sylmar, California
My Ride: 67Ranchero, 85 GLHT
Engine: 289CI, 2.2 T2 cnvrsn
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by Frank
Its a catch 22 though. Its the same type of example as some motorcycles. Some like the twin fire to keep the wheel from slipping in a turn, while others like spaced out firing because they think that the torque is more controllable in a turn.
Same thing here... they both provide benifits, but they dont really effect you either way.
Frank
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The Harley dirt tracker theorists say their advantage over the parallel twins over the years was the uneven pulse of their Vtwins; they think it allows the rear wheel to hook up between pulses of power to the ground. In euro FIM grand prix mc road racing, they HAD something called the "big bang" where they had 500cc 4 cylinder bikes making 500 hp and ALL of it hitting at one instant! with 360* of rotation between power pulses! Same theory, within a single wheel rotation, a single big pulse as opposed to four little ones, allows the rubber more time to grab the pavement and hook up. Whether they got away from the big bang for other engineering reasons (vibration/blocks splitting) or not, I have not read of.
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11-28-2005, 08:51 PM
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#94
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: North Dakota
My Ride: 84 Chrysler Laser
Engine: 92 com. blk. 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 10.600
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Originally Posted by puppet
That's Schnobbin' !! ... one question though Warren. Would putting a couple of slip joints in the last section of each of the legs (where you welded the 2" spacers in) ... would that simplify the turbo mounting? You wouldn't have to allow for so much heat related movement in the S/S.
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Slip joints would likely leak gas pressure, or be so tight as to render them useless. The turbo can be removed through the top left of the intake no problem..........I've read a comment about the header hitting something during hard use, not going to happen as there is ample room. I've measured about a million times............You only have to be smarted than the tubing to build these.
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11-28-2005, 09:18 PM
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#95
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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Originally Posted by 2.2=8
I've read a comment about the header hitting something during hard use, not going to happen as there is ample room. I've measured about a million times............You only have to be smarted than the tubing to build these. 
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hahaahahaa,  Good one, "smarted" hehehhe
Whats smarter now, the tubing still?
BTW, is this the only item your changing?
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11-28-2005, 09:41 PM
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#96
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MN
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by turbovanman
hahaahahaa,  Good one, "smarted" hehehhe
Whats smarter now, the tubing still?
BTW, is this the only item your changing?
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Don't shit up a perfectly good thread with "Lounge" antics.
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11-28-2005, 09:43 PM
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#97
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: North Dakota
My Ride: 84 Chrysler Laser
Engine: 92 com. blk. 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 10.600
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Originally Posted by turbovanman
hahaahahaa,  Good one, "smarted" hehehhe
Whats smarter now, the tubing still?
BTW, is this the only item your changing?
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The tubing is still on top!
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11-28-2005, 09:52 PM
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#98
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Originally Posted by 2.2=8
Slip joints would likely leak gas pressure, or be so tight as to render them useless. The turbo can be removed through the top left of the intake no problem..........I've read a comment about the header hitting something during hard use, not going to happen as there is ample room. I've measured about a million times............You only have to be smarted than the tubing to build these. 
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I was thinking more about controlling the expansion of the pipe not getting the turbo out
I know you said you had that covered. ... just not how to brace the turbo. Cutting the pipe movement off near the turbo would mean you could almost solid mount the flange. You'd have to engineer a slip joint exhaust gas seal though.
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11-28-2005, 10:07 PM
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#99
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Originally Posted by TrboVan
Don't shit up a perfectly good thread with "Lounge" antics.
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isnt that what you just did?
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11-28-2005, 10:23 PM
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#101
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: toledo
My Ride: 89 turbo van 5-speed
Engine: 2.5 turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.770
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That thing is crazyer than the one on my car i like it. Well you did a nice pice of art work how many days do you have in it now , I don't want to change that head gaskets on that one, just joking it won't be worth it .
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11-28-2005, 10:24 PM
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#102
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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http://www.dmeexpansionjoints.com/exhaust-bellows.htm
Maybe this would work better than slips ... no seals to engineer.
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11-28-2005, 11:23 PM
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#103
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: North Dakota
My Ride: 84 Chrysler Laser
Engine: 92 com. blk. 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 10.600
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by puppet
I was thinking more about controlling the expansion of the pipe not getting the turbo out
I know you said you had that covered. ... just not how to brace the turbo. Cutting the pipe movement off near the turbo would mean you could almost solid mount the flange. You'd have to engineer a slip joint exhaust gas seal though.
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Oh, ok I misunderstood. I have all my turbo mounting figured out, I will post pics when I have it all built. those bellows seal are interesting.
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11-28-2005, 11:25 PM
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#104
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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From what I understand those still break. They would end up fatiguing over time and developing stress cracks(unless they were titanium...didn't look all that well, but then you have to figure a way to secure them, ect.)
I know...screw it. Use some of that steel strapping material to make a sling to hang the thing from and hang that bad boy from the intake! t won't go anywhere then...(this is a joke BTW)
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11-29-2005, 12:48 AM
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#105
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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Originally Posted by TrboVan
Don't shit up a perfectly good thread with "Lounge" antics.
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Your a moron!
I was joking around, Warren got it, why couldn't you?
Anyhow, back to our scheduled program-
What about using the slip fit and using springs like we do on our Motorbikes. We use Titanium systems and they don't leak. There mounted solidly and don't snap or fatique crack?
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