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09-05-2006, 01:40 AM
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#16
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Glendale AZ
My Ride: 87/89 LeBaron Coupe
Engine: 2.5l T-1,Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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"The cut-out ideas are great for cars that'll see somemore track time .. but vcrpro3 hasn't expressed that desire. I say keep the 2-1/2" and be happy ... for now"
Probably 250hp will be the highest the car will ever go for and as stated, it will not ever be on the track--just for street and higher than usual open road cruising speed ability
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09-05-2006, 11:18 AM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB.
My Ride: 88 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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A 3" cylinder (exhaust) is 48% bigger than 2.5" That is what tipped me to go 3" though it is now too loud that my wife will not drive in it. Which may help one decide what to do as well.
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09-05-2006, 01:48 PM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
My Ride: 1990 Spirit
Engine: 2.5 T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by scott_s
A 3" cylinder (exhaust)....it is now too loud that my wife will not drive in it. Which may help one decide what to do as well. 
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3" all the way!
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09-05-2006, 02:13 PM
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#20
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I just had my 3" installed a little over a week ago on my stock TII. You can say what you want but I feel a NOTICABLE difference. After I got it installed I gave it a good run from a rolling start in first and when I shifted into second the clutch was slipping. I had driven it harder with the old exhaust and was NEVER able to make the clutch slip at all.
I know for a fact there is more power just because of the reduced back pressure. Also, this is with the stock down pipe because I have the wrong sized donut and have to wait for the right one to get here before I can get the 3" down pipe welded on.
Here is the thread I started about it, it has some pics and sound clip:
New exahust for the GTC (Sound).
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
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09-05-2006, 02:50 PM
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#21
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Clint ... were you going from stock to 3" ?
vcrpro3 already has 2-1/2" all the way back.
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09-05-2006, 02:54 PM
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#22
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Oh, yeah, I missed that.
I went from a stock exhaust to a 3" mandrel.
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
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09-05-2006, 03:11 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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There is gain to be made going from 2.5" to 3"
I hate it when people write long articles so they can feel justified in doing something subpar. When I do something subpar, I just do it knowing its not the best
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09-05-2006, 03:49 PM
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#24
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houghton MI 60" sno so far
My Ride: OMNI/ShelDak/TSi/SL
Engine: 2.2 'GLHS style' TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.800
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ondonti
There is gain to be made going from 2.5" to 3"
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of course there is a gain...
the question is: for a particular engine configuration and HP goal, does the extra expense, weight and hassle of a 3" create *enough of a gain* to justify itself ?
*my opinion*, after shoehorning a 3" into an L-body which was designed for a 1-7/8" and now clunks the axle into the pipe over moderate bumps, is:
unless you are planning something more aggressive than a stock-ish TII with <20 psi, then a 2.5" is adequate
if you plan (one of these): Super60, 2.5L/.63, T3/T4 turbo, 4V conversion, >20psi/FMIC, 2-piece+expensive headwork, etc. THEN a 3" SV, DP, and exhaust is certainly going to give you worthwhile ADDITIONAL gains over a 2.5"
if you are low budget and running a 2.5 SV & DP then don't bother with a 3"
the reason I installed a 3" is: I have a balanced, oversize valved, ported 2.5L which will go in there someday (with a FMIC and at least a .63 turbo)..
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09-05-2006, 09:27 PM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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No problem fitting 3" in an AA body when installed properly with good stiff bushings. If you are just reusing the crap stock bushings, then you get what you installed.
You can also slide the gas tank over a little bit if you really are worried.
Last I checked he has a J body, not an L body...........
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09-08-2006, 10:23 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Minnesota
My Ride: 1992 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5l I-4 super 60
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Check for how much exhaust backpressure you have. You can make a backpressure adapter using an old, shot oxygen sensor and hack it up so you can put a vacuum line on it and run it to a pressure guage. Unplug and remove the oxygen sensor, install the adapter, and go for a run. No backpressure? I can't see bigger exhaust helping anything.
This ghetto tool is great for diagnosing clogged catylitic converters. Also, to get the most out of your 3" exhaust, you need all 3" parts (including swingvalve)
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09-09-2006, 03:33 AM
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#27
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Duncan, Vancouver Island, BC,CANADA
1/4: 0.000
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somthing everyone is leaving out is what or even if this person will be running a cat (is so what kind?) and/or a muffler (if so what kind?) or will it be mandrel bent or crush bent?
i personaly have experince with a few differnt types of exhaust on TD's and to my enjoyment was that i found a 2.5" cat-back mandrel bent exhaust will do the trick. i also have a car that has a 2.5" SV into a 2.5" DP then opens up into a 3" crush bent with no cat or muffler.
the 3" sounds like crap and it NO good for street driving. the way i look at it is that the compleat 2.5" mandrel bent set up is good seeing as the exhaust has to pass though a crappy flowing SV into a much better flowing exhaust. sooo whats the point on going any bigger if if you only have a given size SV (not to say a 2.5" exhaust wont be usless on a 2.25" SV {i also have a car set up like that})
i guess when it all comes down to it, it's a matter of perferince. if your goal is only 250hp and you know you'r not gonna be pushing for any more, get a 2.5" exhaust, if you think some day you'r gonna try for more power, go with a 3" set up. and hell if you cant deside what to go with...... just go 2.75" i know a place where they sell that size by the dozen!
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09-09-2006, 11:20 AM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Spokane, Wa
My Ride: 85 GLHT, 87 ShelbyZ
Engine: 2.2 T2 and 2.5 T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.882
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I upgraded my exhaust in stages. Stage 1 was eliminating the cat and running a piece of 2.25" pipe (stock size) out the side. It helped a lot. But it was loud, sounded good though, but popped very loud on decel. Stage 2 was a JRB downpipe with 2.5" donut that instantly flared to 3" with a dynomax bullet out the side. There was an improvement once again (I could spin the tires rolling on it in 2nd gear now) The tone was deeper, not as overall loud. Stage 3 was going to a full 3" donut/downpipe and eliminating the Dynomax. Another significant gain was noted, as well as that deep tone still being there but being able to hear the turbo spooling. It's quiet at cruise and idle and just the right sound when you're on it. It's a bit loud if you're right up against a wall but then you just laugh cause the sound is awesome and the noise is only temporary. I should of done this stage 1st. Well worth it but all the stages had gains over the previous versions. My experience has proved to me that the 3" is quieter than the 2.25/2.5" was. If you have grandma car (new yorker etc.) and don't want huge performance gains or to spend lots on the exhaust, Get rid of the cat and upgrade the muffler at least. If not get the 3" It truly rocks.
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09-09-2006, 08:19 PM
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#30
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GTCUL8R
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Utah
My Ride: 1989 LeBaron GTC
Engine: Turbo II 2.2L/135ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by shelbyplaya
the 3" sounds like crap and it NO good for street driving.
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How so?
Everyone that has listened to mine says it sounds great. Also, how is it NO good for the street?
__________________
Clint: 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT - 1987 LeBaron Premium Parts Car
My CarDomain Garage
I am looking for gray interior trim for a J-body (1987-1989) LeBaron coupe hardtop. If you have anything please PM me before throwing it out. I am also selling tan trim if you're interested.
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