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09-15-2006, 06:23 PM
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#1
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How to remove the swingvalve
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nebraska
My Ride: '87 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2l TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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My O2 is stuck in the swingvalve so I planned to remove the SV to have better acces for removing the sensor. I thought I heard/read somewhere that there in an internal bolt for the swing valve, is this true? Or can I just remove it with the four/five outside bolts?
Thanks,
Nate
Last edited by impuresoul2k3; 09-16-2006 at 12:26 AM.
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09-15-2006, 09:39 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: looking for boost.....somewhere....
My Ride: 94 shadow base coupe
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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there is an internal bolt for a garrett.
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09-16-2006, 12:24 AM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nebraska
My Ride: '87 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2l TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Yeah, i've tried PB and the O2 is slightly rounded
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09-16-2006, 01:41 AM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pittsburgh
My Ride: 88 ram 3/4 ton
Engine: 360
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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heat the souronding metal until it is orange, then is will come out.
where is the hidden bolt?
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09-16-2006, 06:23 AM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yatesboro, PA
My Ride: 88' Shadow ES
Engine: 2.2L DOHC Hybrid
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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If the hex part of the sensor became to rounded to use a wrench or the special O2-Sensor socket, maybe try a small pipe wrench with a cheater pipe. Although I did this on a log intake car so you might not have room, depending on your setup.
The PB-Blaster-overnight method tends to work well.
The heating the surrounding metal with a torch also tends to work very well.
Adding to the torch method. Where I used to work I did alot of core engine disassembly and prep work for the machine shop. I tore apart and preped ALOT of mitsu 4G63 engines. The oil galley in the block as an allen key pipe plug on the flywheel end of the block that had to be removed before acid dipping the block. To remove these I usually heated the block around where the plug was as hot as I could get it, then as soon as I shut the torch off touch the threads around the plug with a chunk of parafin wax. Wait a couple seconds then take the plug out. Works like a charm.
Edit: The hidden bolt is INSIDE the O2 housing/swingvalve. Take the downpipe off and its right up inside there. The standard/ford T3 swingvalve I have comes straight out of the turbo instead of being at a 90* like that so all my bolts are on the outside.
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09-16-2006, 09:33 AM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nebraska
My Ride: '87 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2l TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Alright I'll try the pipe wrench method and the heating, I do have a TI car with the log intake. If those fail is there any reason I shouldn't take the SV off?
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09-16-2006, 11:05 AM
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#8
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Abbotsford WI.
My Ride: Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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The fact the bolt usaully snap easy on the swingvalve and get stuck into the turbo.
__________________
85 Shelby Charger full T2 conversion is running again
77 Plymouth Arrow 360 carb turbo setup. (coming together)
94 Jeep grand cherokee DD 318 6" lift on 33"
Check them out.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/speedyshelby
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09-16-2006, 06:05 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: nj
My Ride: TIII R/T
Engine: 2.2L TURBO III
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.743
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ive used correct size socket and wrench on it, used penetrant, ran it til hot, still couldnt get mine off. broke at the top of the threads, mines internally stuff. what a pain. the 5th bolt is inside the swingvalve, cant get at it on the car at all. if your car has an EGR tube thats even better yet to remove and not break to reuse
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09-17-2006, 02:21 AM
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#12
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mesa, AZ
My Ride: 99 Cummins
Engine: 5.9
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Vice grips.
A short piece of 2x4
A Big Freaking Hammer.
You fill in the rest.
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