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Old 09-15-2006, 06:23 PM   #1
How to remove the swingvalve  
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My O2 is stuck in the swingvalve so I planned to remove the SV to have better acces for removing the sensor. I thought I heard/read somewhere that there in an internal bolt for the swing valve, is this true? Or can I just remove it with the four/five outside bolts?

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Nate

Last edited by impuresoul2k3; 09-16-2006 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:37 PM   #2
 
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Unless the turbo is OUT of the car, i wouldn't remove the swingvalve to get to the o2 sensor.

Buy some PB Blaster *penatrating oil, do NOT use wd-40* and spary to o2 sensor thread and let it soak over night. You should be able to remove it then.
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:39 PM   #3
 
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there is an internal bolt for a garrett.
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:24 AM   #4
 
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Yeah, i've tried PB and the O2 is slightly rounded
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Old 09-16-2006, 01:41 AM   #5
 
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heat the souronding metal until it is orange, then is will come out.


where is the hidden bolt?
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Old 09-16-2006, 06:23 AM   #6
 
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If the hex part of the sensor became to rounded to use a wrench or the special O2-Sensor socket, maybe try a small pipe wrench with a cheater pipe. Although I did this on a log intake car so you might not have room, depending on your setup.
The PB-Blaster-overnight method tends to work well.
The heating the surrounding metal with a torch also tends to work very well.

Adding to the torch method. Where I used to work I did alot of core engine disassembly and prep work for the machine shop. I tore apart and preped ALOT of mitsu 4G63 engines. The oil galley in the block as an allen key pipe plug on the flywheel end of the block that had to be removed before acid dipping the block. To remove these I usually heated the block around where the plug was as hot as I could get it, then as soon as I shut the torch off touch the threads around the plug with a chunk of parafin wax. Wait a couple seconds then take the plug out. Works like a charm.

Edit: The hidden bolt is INSIDE the O2 housing/swingvalve. Take the downpipe off and its right up inside there. The standard/ford T3 swingvalve I have comes straight out of the turbo instead of being at a 90* like that so all my bolts are on the outside.
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:33 AM   #7
 
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Alright I'll try the pipe wrench method and the heating, I do have a TI car with the log intake. If those fail is there any reason I shouldn't take the SV off?
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:05 AM   #8
 
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The fact the bolt usaully snap easy on the swingvalve and get stuck into the turbo.
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:42 PM   #9
 
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Yeah, don't take the SV off unless you have to. I break at least 2 bolts off everytime.
And I feel for you on the O2 sensor. I had to hack the wires and use a deep socket impact wrench to get my last one out.
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Old 09-16-2006, 06:05 PM   #10
 
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ive used correct size socket and wrench on it, used penetrant, ran it til hot, still couldnt get mine off. broke at the top of the threads, mines internally stuff. what a pain. the 5th bolt is inside the swingvalve, cant get at it on the car at all. if your car has an EGR tube thats even better yet to remove and not break to reuse
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:42 AM   #11
 
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Put your car up on steady jack stands, drop the exhaust away from the SV. reach your finger into the SV until you feel the bolt head. Get the appropriate socket onto the head and remove it. Put the SV in a vice, heat the SV with a torch and put a 7/8 wrench on it and bust it loose. There is a special socket made for O2 sensors, I have one, but it has never worked properly. I always have to resort to this method. When you put back together, put a little high temp silicone on the threads of the bolts, and a boatload of antiseaze on the O2 threads before you put it in.
I had to do just this very thing a couple of weeks ago when I took the O2 out of my '89 CSX VNT.

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Old 09-17-2006, 02:21 AM   #12
 
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Vice grips.

A short piece of 2x4

A Big Freaking Hammer.

You fill in the rest.
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:13 AM   #13
 
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I just removed THREE swing valve yesterday.

Two 2 1/2 inch and one 2 1/4 inch.

On the swing valve I put the high temperature anti-seize on the bolts, all bolts come off easy and NO rust on the thread, didn't even need PB-blaster. The other two, I spary lots and lots of PB-Blaster on it before attempt to take them off. Lucky, none of the bolts broke. Lots of rust on the bolt thread though.

High temperature nickel anti-seize 2400f does help to prevent rust and makes the removal a lot easiler. If anybody interested, I still sell them by half an oz or 1 oz. $3 or $5 + $1 shipping. 1 oz fills a entire film bottle.
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