TurboDodge.com MarketPlace Shelby Registry Contact Us

Advertisement - Remove these ads today by clicking here.
 

Go Back   TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! > Turbo Dodge Technical Chat > Engine - Exhaust

Engine - Exhaust Topics about the exhaust system discussed here.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools

Old 11-13-2006, 11:23 AM   #1
Another noob exh. manifold porting thread...  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Peterborough, Ontario

My Ride: 89 Chrysler Daytona
Engine: 88 2.2 T1-T2 upgrade
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.800

Posts: 1,327
Feedback: (1)
Hey guys,
Im a total noob to porting/polishing anything, dont know anybody that does it or knows about it really so my knowledge about it ends around the common sense area, what I have read, and what few pictures are on these boards I have found, blah blah blah.

Anyway I have been poking around with a stock T1/T2 exhaust manifold and my dremel. I just got a flexible shaft attachment for it yesterday

I was able to completely remove those to big bumps without busting through anywhere so I was happy about that. Other than that I have been smoothing the insides that I can reach, eliminating all of the ridge I can get at, and trying to open it up evenly on the insides.

Is that basically what the goal is here? Is there a way to get in between the first 3 runners? I'll post pics in a bit if I can get my %$%$ camera working!
daytonajesse is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2006, 11:43 AM   #2
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ.

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 6,996
Feedback: (32)
You want to smooth it out.
tryingbe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2006, 12:18 PM   #3
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: S. Central PA

My Ride: '91 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,516
Feedback: (0)
It sounds like you're porting an exhaust manifold. You can't get between the runners, don't worry about it. What you'll find is the biggest restriction will be cylinder #3 where the wall protrudes 1/4 of the way into the port. Different manifolds have different amounts of core shift. Remove as much of that wall as you can without getting too thin. By matching the ports to the gasket and taking that size straight in as far as your tool will reach, you'll be far ahead. You seem to have found the 2 bumps in cyls#3 & 4. Also, radius around the turbo inlet area. There are some sharp bends in there. If you open the turbo inlet to about 1/16" smaller than the turbo's hole, that will help too.

Mike
www.PowreHaus.com
mpgmike is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2006, 07:27 PM   #4
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Peterborough, Ontario

My Ride: 89 Chrysler Daytona
Engine: 88 2.2 T1-T2 upgrade
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.800

Posts: 1,327
Feedback: (1)
yep exhaust manifold
I took a piece of cardboard and made an imprint of my new turbo's flange, cut it out, mounted it on my exhaust manifold and made the markings where necessary and opened it up to just about what you said already so that was a nice fluke! I figured there is a small amount of play on exactly where the turbo sits when bolted and I did not want a flat edge poking through for the exhaust to get all turbulent on.
I've been working on it off and on for about 6 months now I guess, not very often but I have probably in total 10 dremel hours and maybe 2hrs more working with my hands, into it already. I've removed handfulls of stuff from it just smoothing and getting those 2 bolt bumps and ridge.

What kind of gains can be had from a ported/polished exhaust manifold?
I know you have no idea how mine might perform, I mean in general.


This is just another part for my collection of parts that hopefully someday will turn into a working engine to replace my leaky tired stock (mostly) 88 T1 motor.
Rebuilt .42/.48 T2 S60 Clipped turbine, ported exhaust manifold, 2.4 lifters and conical springs, Forged rods, T2 pistons (Im most likely going to buy new forged ones), 2.5 SV, I have a high vol oil pump but i dont think im going to use it.
daytonajesse is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 12:30 AM   #5
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Lincoln, Ne

My Ride: 91 Spirit R/T
Engine: TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 2,193
Feedback: (0)
A carbide bit is your friend. A very good friend. Otherwise Mike covered it pretty well.
86Shelby is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 12:44 AM   #6
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: S. Central PA

My Ride: '91 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,516
Feedback: (0)
A sand blaster and some Tech Line coatings and they look like this...

Mike
www.PowreHaus.com
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tiiexman1.jpg (8.8 KB, 96 views)
mpgmike is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 04:27 PM   #7
 
Resident piston cracker
 
crazymadbastard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CT

My Ride: 92gtc vert
Engine: 2.5 8v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.800

Posts: 4,112
Feedback: (21)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpgmike
A sand blaster and some Tech Line coatings and they look like this...

Mike
www.PowreHaus.com
I used that techline stuff on the manifold and hotside of the turbine and wastegate, I though it would be a good idea, underhood temps seem pretty low now.
__________________
" Raise boost till you blow the head gasket(or crack pistons), then back off slightly."
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00555.jpg

dyno sheet

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...l-2-5-s60.html

1992 GTC convertible 2.5s60/3in Tu sv/+40S/ FWD CAL /FMIC/self ported head+1mm exh valves/self ported ex mani/stock 2piece w/stock tb/PSSSSTSSSS

fmic install:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/...tall-done.html
crazymadbastard is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 04:30 PM   #8
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: S. Central PA

My Ride: '91 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2 TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,516
Feedback: (0)
Consenses is that it lowers manifold surface temps about 400* F.

Mike
mpgmike is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 05:38 PM   #9
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Green Bay WI

My Ride: 87 Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.200

Posts: 1,084
Feedback: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Shelby
A carbide bit is your friend. A very good friend. Otherwise Mike covered it pretty well.
Yep after using a carbide bit on a Die grinder the dremel is just about useless. The carbide bit and a die grinder would have cut your work time down to an hour I bet. I have a tendency if getting carried away with mine.

Benji
bfarroo is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 05:41 PM   #10
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL

My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 881
Feedback: (0)
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpgmike
A sand blaster and some Tech Line coatings and they look like this...

Mike
www.PowreHaus.com
Mike what is that threaded hole in the side of the manifold? Is that for the O2 sensor?
86Tona is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 05:42 PM   #11
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL

My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 881
Feedback: (0)
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpgmike
Consenses is that it lowers manifold surface temps about 400* F.

Mike
If I may add to what Mike has said, it would then also lower the engine compartment temps a great deal which means the intake manifold as well. This has to be a good thing when trying to lower incoming air temps.
86Tona is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 05:44 PM   #12
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Peterborough, Ontario

My Ride: 89 Chrysler Daytona
Engine: 88 2.2 T1-T2 upgrade
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.800

Posts: 1,327
Feedback: (1)
my guess is egt bung
daytonajesse is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 06:18 PM   #13
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: The "other" sites now

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 693
Feedback: (0)
^ yep.. It's for the EGT sensor... should be required equip on these I've found out...
88_Pacifica is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2006, 10:46 PM   #14
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon

My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800

Posts: 1,795
Feedback: (1)
+1 for EGT. Wideband too! but that goes after the turbo.
tkelly27 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2006, 10:00 AM   #15
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tallahassee, FL

My Ride: 1986 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5 TBI
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 881
Feedback: (0)
Images: 2
Does anyone know of a DIY EGT circuit drawing? I'm building an A/F gauge and would love to build into it an EGT gauge.
86Tona is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

» Quick Nav
- Home
- Classifieds
- Timeslips
- Gallery
- Vendors
-- Directory
- Tech Articles
- Donate
Sponsors
remove ads

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1
Ugg | Loan | Infrared Sauna | File Hosting | Ugg


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:39 AM.

Page generated in 0.45322 seconds with 14 queries